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I have a boat wooden the outside is fibberglassed over the wooden planks of the boat.In the bilge 3 1x6 planks (inches) 0n each side of the keel have a high moisture content and are becoming soft. The problem is these planks on the outside are fiberglassed as part of the entire process of fiberglassing I have acces to bilge by removing the floor ok now how do i get 90% moisture out of this wood.

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The best way you can do this is by cutting out the moist or rotten wood and then replacing it with better one and coating it back with fibreglass

Determine the extent of the damage. If it is just a small hole, you may get away with just boring out the hole, attaching a screen and applying gel coat to the surface. It may be slightly bumpy, but with wear and a good match in gel coat color, it will hardly show after use.

If the damage requires complete repair,draw a line where you will make the cut and follow these steps

1.Pull the boat out of the water and put it up on a dry dock.

2.Cut the top off the transom and remove the wood. Use the removed piece as a pattern to cut a new piece. If the fiberglass is not damaged, replacing rotten wood inside the transom can be another quick way to make repairs that will help your boat last much longer.

3.Apply a stitchmat or fabmat over the wood if you need to replace the entire transom. Roll out the bubbles. Put fiberglass on top of that and sand the edges.

4.Check the size against the boat before putting on the finishing touches.
Then insert the transom back onto the boat and seal with adhesives.

5.Sand the glass and attach hardware. Polish to a gleam,

Posted on Aug 04, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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;'';
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4. Remove the float and bracket from the pump reservoir. The reservoir screws are not all apparent; there's also a screw way over on the left and one coming in from the right. I used a 12 inch #2 phillips screwdriver with a magnetized tip for most of this. Remove the pump reservoir and clean out the scummy stuff in the bottom and where the tubes attach. When removing the reservoir, you'll have to detach the vent line that goes through the bulkhead to where the big tank was and pull the tab above it down slightly while easing the tank out.

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3. Remove the top cover, not forgetting the two screws on top by where the back cover attached (go gently, there's a wiring harness) and turn it to the side. There was enough slack to leave the wires connected; just be careful to not damage them.

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1. Remove the overflow water tank and the two side covers (five screws in each). Note that as you go through the removal of all the covers and other procedures, there are two lengths of screws; don't switch them. If you lose track, the rule of thumb is use the short screws for going through a single layer of plastic into metal.

2. Remove the rear cover (take out the screws along the bottom and on the sides). It will still be attached to the front top cover at the top with tab fasteners. Gently pull out the bottom of the cover while depressing the top of it on both sides with your thumbs (about an inch and a half inside the trim ridges) to clear the tabs. Ease the top part of the cover back and remove it (it will have to tilt to one side, don't forget this when putting it back on).

3. Remove the top cover, not forgetting the two screws on top by where the back cover attached (go gently, there's a wiring harness) and turn it to the side. There was enough slack to leave the wires connected; just be careful to not damage them.

4. The filter looks like a small transparent in-line gas filter. Remove the pump filter, leaving the short tube attached to the top of it. I quickly atttached a length of tubing to drain the reservoir into a bucket. I couldn't find a replacement filter, so I filed a slot in the side of the bottom half of it to remove the gunk using the wire from a twist tie (the upper half had some tabs inside that would have been in the way). Afterwards, I wrapped it tightly with stretchy electrical tape and put a cable tie over the tape at the slot to keep the tape from being able to creep loose over time. Don't use a fuel filter, the paper element is too fine (you need a screen) and the paper will fall apart in water.

4. Remove the float and bracket from the pump reservoir. The reservoir screws are not all apparent; there's also a screw way over on the left and one coming in from the right. I used a 12 inch #2 phillips screwdriver with a magnetized tip for most of this. Remove the pump reservoir and clean out the scummy stuff in the bottom and where the tubes attach. When removing the reservoir, you'll have to detach the vent line that goes through the bulkhead to where the big tank was and pull the tab above it down slightly while easing the tank out.

5. Clean out any dirty tubes, paying particular attention to the coupling for the drain hose and the long drain hose itself.

6. Put the reservoir back in and hook up all the tubes and filter. It does make a difference in which direction the filter goes back in. You want the water from the reservoir to go through the filter from the outside of the little screen; that leaves the maximum room for crud build-up before it plugs up the screen again. Newer ones have a flow direction arrow; point it away from the reservoir.

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