Question about Ingersoll Rand Compressors 5-HP, 80-Gallon, Triple Stage Rota

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Air presure builds up quick and when stopped I remove oil fill cap and can hear air leaking within the oil fill area of my 30T model 242. Do I need a bottom end rebuild kit?

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  • brianfortner Aug 05, 2010

    thanks

  • brianfortner Aug 05, 2010

    Thanks. But what is the solution? reseat the valves? Thanks for your input. I'll be more specific in next question.

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It sounds like the valves are not properly seating causing the air to backup into the engine

Posted on Aug 04, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have an ingresoll rand air compressor model # 242-5D, it has two motors and for some reason one does shut off when it hits the right amount of pressur at 150psi the second continues to run until the...


Does it have separate compressors on tank?. You probably need to adjust cut in and cut out pressure switch. I have seen several air delivery systems that utilize 2 separate compressors, this allowed a backup if the one online failed. The units had unloader valves and the compressor never stops running. A call for air pressure would close unloader valves and unit would pump up and the the valves would unload.

Jul 28, 2017 | Ingersoll Rand - Rand Type - 30...

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2004 6.0 stop after stop sign found IGR Valve bad under tubo put new one in from dealer and still no start. Need help thanks


looks like stc fiting ic leaking at the oil injection pump
igr??? probably ipr valve same area removed cover
on right side vale cover removed icp sesor get adapter
and apply 100psi plus of air presure with igniton power
at ipr valve and look or listen for leek before removing air
power out ignition feed or it will spray back unless leek is
fairly larged

Jan 18, 2011 | 2004 Ford F350

2 Answers

Trips thermal overload. power source ok. oil ok


Several things to check. Amp draw to be within number on plate, if amp draw not correct check capacitor, should be within 5% of rating on cap.. If amp draw about right and cap reads good suspect faulty breaker. If amp draw high and cap. good check for leak at in-tank check valve. With pressure in tank remove hose at check valve spray soapy water. If check valve good, suspect reed valves leaking. If reeds are leaking the compressor will take longer than normal to fill and the discharge tube/air will get very hot. It is recommended to note the amount of time it takes to fill tank when unit is new and compare this as unit wears. Length of time to fill is an indication of how well unit is working. A combination of leaky valves and leaking fittings as well as leaking checkvalve will cause motor to overheat.

Oct 03, 2010 | Hitachi EC89 4 Gallon Twin Stack Air...

1 Answer

I have an upright craftsman compressor which is VERY slow at building pressure. The shut off is 150psi. When I use the unit, and it turns on, it runs forever to build back up, even when im not using it....


Your unit should fill within 5 min. Compressor may have worn cylinder (assuming oil-less) , worn valves or just leaking. Easy test. Spray soapy water on all connections/fittings including drain valve and regulator while compressor is running. Repair as needed. If no leaks, remove plug from outlet, remove cover and examine cylinder. Turn crank by hand till piston is all the way up into cylinder. Examine carefully the condition of the cylinder close to top. If the cylinder is scratched or worn then pressure is leaking between piston/cylinder and will not fill tank properly. Replacement cylinder kit available at Sears, cost under $50. If no leaks and the cylinder looks good, then valve plate may have broken gasket or reed valves. Replace as needed. Good luck with your project.

Aug 25, 2010 | Craftsman Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

On a 2001 infiniti j 30t..Change the radiator and would like to know how to bleed it or how to get the air out of the cooling system.


remove the cap on the expansion tank,undo the clip on the highest water hose and fill into it....then fill the exp tank...start up to max temp and any air in the top of the rad should vent into the expansion tank.

Jul 22, 2010 | 1997 Infiniti.5 J30

1 Answer

ENGINE IS HEATED QUICKLY


if the coolant is low enough, there will be air/space at the top of the engine. where the temperature sensor is located. also where the thermostat is located. air heats up much quicker than water. an abnormally fast rise in temperature might be due to the temperature sensor getting hot because not ehough coolant is flowing through the system. to check coolant level, wait until the engine is cold. remove the radiator cap by pushing down on the cap with the palm of your hand and turn counter clockwise. there will be a safety stop about half way around. this is to prevent the cap from blowing off in the event of pressure build up. again, push the cap down and turn to remove. if you see no coolant, there is a leak in the system. fill with the proper anti freeze. note the quantity. get the leak fixed.

the thermostat may be bad if there is no leak. have it replaced.

there could be a collapsed hose restricting flow

the temperature sensor may be bad, but you would probably get a check engine light

the water pump may be bad, but you should hear some noise if that were the cases.

my bet is a leak or the thremost

Jun 04, 2010 | 2002 Nissan Maxima

2 Answers

I need to find a leak in my Carrier Air Central Air cond. I'm thinking it may be the A-coil as it keeps freezing up. Can I use compressed air and soap/water spray around the A-coil to check for leaks?


You cannot use compressed air as it will introduce moisture into the system. You can use dry nitrogen. Prior to searching, look your system over and look for oil.........oil will leak out with the refrigerant and often times you will notice the oil collected in the area near the leak. After pressurizing with dry nitrogen, you can use a soapy mixture to search for the leak. Leaks in the A-coils are commonly found near the tube sheets; however, they could be anywhere in the coil. Good Luck in Your Endeavor!!! :-)

Apr 21, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Pressure inside oil tankl


All air compressor will build pressure in the oil reservoir. This is caused by blow-by past the piston rings. The reason all compressors have this is due to the relatively slow rpm that the compressor crank is turning. Unlike a car's engine that is turning so fast the compressed gas doesn't have time to leak by the rings.
To deal with this problem air compressors have a special oil fill cap that alows the pressurized air to be vented out of the oil reservoir chamber.

There are three reasons that you are having this problem. The first is you have a clocked oil cap vent. Second is you have the wrong type of oil cap.
The third is the bad one. If the problem is unrelated to the oil cap then it means there is more blow-by then the vent cap can handle. This would indicate that you have worn or broken rings and/or worn cylinder wall.

If your compressor is not old (low hours), then take a close look at the cap. If it has more then 2000 hours then you will most likely need to rebuild the compressor, depending on the make and model.
Hope this helps and good luck.


Dec 12, 2009 | Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

99 Chev suburban 5.7 liter, antifreeze keeps leaking have to fill reserve and radiator evryother day, (new radiator) no white smoke, oil looks ok, cant see leak anywhere on the ground or frame??? Wheres it...


check the condition of the reserve tank and the hose from the reserve tank to the radiator for leaks if no leaks there have the Radiator cap presure tested . also this could be a air lock in the engine if the radiator is new with the engine running and the heater on hot observe the fluid level in the radiator with the cap off if it drops as it warms add more coolant this will purge the air .

Aug 26, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

Runs real rough


Getting worse? Are you having to top up oil regularly? (oil over-filled and damaged hydraulic lifters / Piston rings failed / valve-stem seals decayed) Is the oil-cap gungy and yellow/brown froth? (Head gasket failed / head cracked / piston chamber cracked) If thats all ok, then its possible you have an air leak: Does car cut out when you slow down and stop? Does it hesitate when you accellerate from standstill in normal driving? Can you hear any whistling from the engine? Check for air leaks between the air flow meter to the head. I cant remember if this model has a throttle position sensor, but that might be dirty/faulty. Try spraying an electrical contact cleaner (not WD40. You can get contact cleaner from Maplin etc) into the throttle body (DO NOT SPRAY ANYTHING INTO THE AIR FLOW METER!). Finally, check the HT leads and the Coil pack. Good luck

Jun 28, 2008 | 1998 Volkswagen Jetta

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