Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
fabi, if Im reading you right the machine fills with water and just sits there. Can you hear the motor running when it should be agitating? If so you might have a broken coupler. If the machine is quiet and just sits there, it could be the pressure switch. The first picture shows the pressure switch with the rubber hose and purple wire going to it (far left). There is no model number posted but this is a top loading Kenmore, should be close. Take the rubber tubing off the switch and blow into the switch with another piece of tubing. Does it start agitating? If so, there's your problem. If you do hear the motor running and it's not agitating it may be the motor coupler. If you need more assist...email me at email@example.com Catriver..post back.
Posted on Feb 05, 2007
SOURCE: Clothes washer overflows
take the hose off at the pressure switch and blow through it if there are no restrictions then you have a faulty pressure switch let me know how you make out
Posted on Sep 12, 2007
On newer, and sometimes a little newer, Whirlpool and Kenmore (Kenmore is made by Whirlpool) considers a few things in determing capacity. Most of the inner baskets are the same size, but they also add in agitator action into the mix. A Kenmore with an auger top agitator would have higher capacity than a Kenmore with just a normal agitator, even though it has the same sized drum. So a super capacity washer would have theoretically less CLEANING CAPACITY than a super capacity plus. The agitator action is actually what determines capacity on these models. So, with that in mind, cubic load should be about the same on both units. Sorry that I had to go into "Bill Nye The Washer Guy" mode, but thats about the only way to describe. Let me know if I can confuse you any more haha. Seriously though, if you need further help or info, write back, and will try to get you some other information. Remember, this theory only works on top load "normal people" washers, not the front loaders.
Posted on Feb 15, 2008
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Washer Problem
This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place.
Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. NOTE: You DO NOT have to drain the tub to repair the lid switch.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.
I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions or need help locating the correct part, please let me know by posting comments.
Posted on Apr 08, 2008
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