I bought an old used fish finder. It came with a screen, transducer mount with the chord, a speed thing with a wheel, and a smaller looking transducer. My question is ??? the power chord was cut and I noticed four color wires in it, black for -, red for +, a green one and a white one. Whats the green and the white wire for and do I need it? Also, can I just use the transducer without using the speedometer and the other transducer looking thing?
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Re: installing an old used lowrance fish finder
I don't think your old fish finder is the LMS-332C GPS Receiver listed above in the description. You don't need the speed wheel for the fish finder to function just the transducer and transducer mount. You should mount that on the back of the boat towards the center but not too close to the motor and not too close to the side of the board. Don't let it hand below the level of the boat. That should keep it from getting hit by the trailer or dragging on the bottom. Try to make it as level as possible. The green and white wires may be for the speed wheel but i'd need a model number for clarification. Hope this helps.
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I would use slip rings to tie existing cable to prop motor support shaft and mount transducer to motor housing. 'slip ring'--metal ring a little bigger than shaft with a nipple the size of the cable. OR call the bird at 1-800-633-1468 or www.humminbird.com/Category/Company/Contact-Us/ and use some southern/country slang when talking. Best of luck 'you all'.
I install these and other Lowrance systems.
For me there is no specific amount of tourque, it's primarily your best judgment.
You want the bolt tight enough so that the transducer doesn't pivot while on plane but if it were to collide with something it would pivot up out of the way.
Many depth finders don't work when the transducer sees a little turbulence. My only suggestion is to try different locations for the transducer, trying to guess where there will be the least turbulence beneath it. This is easy if your transducer is mounted inside the hull and reads through the hull. Not so easy if it is a through-hull mount. Be sure it is mounted correctly to the hull if it is mounted inside the hull.
The transducer installation is more important than anything.. next to correct wiring! You must make sure the mounting is good,,, if its outside the hull, make sure its sitting 1/16th below the hull with no obstructions.. if its inside the hull, the medium you used to fix the puck to the hull must be porosity free and the puck sitting as level with the WATER as possible..
Now, take the manual to the lake with you and DO NOTHING but read the manual and apply what you read to the unit,,, read -repeat - read-repeat.. forget about fishing... now read-repeat and learn... IF nothing seems to be reading correctly.. its probably the transducer installation.. YOU DID use a/the transducer specifically for this unit!!
Check the transducer for any damage on the front part. Also make sure there isn't any damage on the bottom of the boat that is causing air bubbles to cross the face of the transducer. If it works at slow speeds there is definitely something causing air bubbles.
False fish readings are commonly caused by electrical interference such as alternator noise, and by air bubbles flowing across transducer.
For starters make sure your fishfinder is on an independent circuit and not on one powered by your ignition switch. In other words, you should be able to turn your fishfinder on, even though the engine is turned off. Ideally the fishfinder should be wired directly to the battery with an in line fuse.
Try running the boat at a speed slightly higher than trolling speed, then kill the engine, as the boat slows down to trolling speed do you still see false echos? If yes then the problem probably lies with how the transducer is mounted, or where it is located on the hull.
If you don't see the false echos when the engine is off, it may be necessary to reroute the transducer cable to keep it away from the boat's ignition wires. You can get transducer extension cables if necessary. Also there are filters that you can buy that suppress alternator noise buy attaching between the battery and the engine.
Another common cause of false echos from electrical interference is a transducer cable that has been cut and spliced.
I hope this information helps. Please reply if you have any questions about my response.