I bought an old used fish finder. It came with a screen, transducer mount with the chord, a speed thing with a wheel, and a smaller looking transducer. My question is ??? the power chord was cut and I noticed four color wires in it, black for -, red for +, a green one and a white one. Whats the green and the white wire for and do I need it? Also, can I just use the transducer without using the speedometer and the other transducer looking thing?
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Re: installing an old used lowrance fish finder
I don't think your old fish finder is the LMS-332C GPS Receiver listed above in the description. You don't need the speed wheel for the fish finder to function just the transducer and transducer mount. You should mount that on the back of the boat towards the center but not too close to the motor and not too close to the side of the board. Don't let it hand below the level of the boat. That should keep it from getting hit by the trailer or dragging on the bottom. Try to make it as level as possible. The green and white wires may be for the speed wheel but i'd need a model number for clarification. Hope this helps.
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It is not the transducer. the transducer just provides the sonar reading back to the display. The issue is with the display head unit. Have you tried to adjust the contrast for the fading? Does the screen disappear after awhile? Is the head unit mounted close to other navigation equipment, such as a Compass that may cause interference?
I havew a Minn Kota trolling motor on a Z21 Ranger. Minn Kota has a built in (puck type) transducer on the motor. I have a lowrance 135x on the front. The lowrance will read the temp but will blink the depth. I switched out the depth finder with another 135x with the same results. I have a 522c gps unit networked together and mounted on the console that works fine. Any suggestions on the problem with the 135x?
The receiver needs to be mounted so that it has a clear, unobstructed view of the sky. It will be fine through glass windshields, fiberglass and cloth tops. Keep it at least 2 feet away from the display unit.
I finally got an email reply from Navman. If the unit is less than two years old (mine is not) they will repair it. If it is over two years old, or if you can't prove that it is less than two years old, you can ship it to them and they will repair it for the low, low price of 355 US dollars.
Pretty nice of them since it appears these units are highly problematic isn't it? I am wondering if they guarantee their fix, or just have you on the hook for another 355 dollars later.
False fish readings are commonly caused by electrical interference such as alternator noise, and by air bubbles flowing across transducer.
For starters make sure your fishfinder is on an independent circuit and not on one powered by your ignition switch. In other words, you should be able to turn your fishfinder on, even though the engine is turned off. Ideally the fishfinder should be wired directly to the battery with an in line fuse.
Try running the boat at a speed slightly higher than trolling speed, then kill the engine, as the boat slows down to trolling speed do you still see false echos? If yes then the problem probably lies with how the transducer is mounted, or where it is located on the hull.
If you don't see the false echos when the engine is off, it may be necessary to reroute the transducer cable to keep it away from the boat's ignition wires. You can get transducer extension cables if necessary. Also there are filters that you can buy that suppress alternator noise buy attaching between the battery and the engine.
Another common cause of false echos from electrical interference is a transducer cable that has been cut and spliced.
I hope this information helps. Please reply if you have any questions about my response.
Depth: Could be for a number of reasons, too deep for the sounder - check the manual for it's max depth. Dirty water, sounder unable to penetrate through to the bottom. Weed or other debris covering the transducer. Transducer on a swing mount & being pushed out of alignment then dropping back in once stopped.
Speed: Is the speed readout controlled by a GPS or paddlewheel? If it's GPS, check the power connection of the sounder, may be loose which would also cause the depth to 'drop out'. If it's paddlewheel, you're down to bad connections or faulty unit.