The outside unit for my heat pump does not turn on...either on heat or AC. The air handler works fine. I've checked the breaker in the main electrical panel, and i did a continuity test on the fuses in the outside box next to the unit. Do you have any other suggestions?
Depending on the age of the unit it could be several things, does it have a circuit board? Contactor could be bad, freon leak if it has a low pressure switch, burnt wires, connections, etc. Do a complete visual and check for 24 volts, does the indoor unit run? Transformer may be bad.... No indoor unit - no outdoor unit, most of the time the outdoor unit gets its 24 vac power from the indoor unit which runs them both, look for fuses (like car fuses)..
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Check for fan operation by turning the fan control at the thermostat to "on". If the fan blows, it works. If not, check a circuit breaker or fuse.
If the fan blows when forcing it on with the thermostat but not in automatic, check the fan control circuit in the air handler. Danger: high voltage, beware! There should be a system wiring diagram inside the air handler somewhere.
there will be an access panel where the motor is located. 1st thing to check is fuse or circuit breaker feeding the air handler. this is on seperate power from compressor unit outside and usually has a fused or breakered disconnect on the side of the unit. if fuses are good or breaker is not tripped then switch fan mode to on. if blower runs in on but not in auto then it is a thermostat problem. if still no go then turn off power, remove access panel and find the squirrel cage fan blade. make sure it turns freely. it is very common for these motors to go bad. it can usually be removed easily and taken to a motor shop. I use Roy's Electric in Richmond, Va. They can test the motor on the bench and replace it if it is faulty.
It sounds like the unit may be over charged. Make sure the outside coils are clean and you have plenty of airflow coming out of the top of the outside unit. What could be happening is, when the temps get higher outside, so do the pressures in the system. The compressor has a thermal overload protection that will kick the compressor off if it gets to hot, which if the compressor is over charged, it will work twice as hard, over heat and shut off. You would need a technician to come out and get the refrigerant charge back to normal. Another thing that could be happening is a weak or faulty capacitor, which is a small round or oval metal object, found in the electrical compartment on the unit. This are fairly simple to change out if your comfortable with electric. I've also had to put what's called a hard start kit on compressors with the same problem, new and old. The hard start basically gives it that extra boost of power to get it up and going. I would start with the refrigerant charge and go from there. The electrical "humming" sound that you hear unless you turn the breaker to the furnace off, is the contactor on the outside unit having a call for cooling. The 24 volts come from the furnace, to the outside unit, and pulls the contactor in to power the unit with the 220 volts supplied. It is normal and you don't have to worry about that at all. I hope some of this helps and good luck!
The outside fan may run if the unit is in defrost mode this is normal for most heat pumps it is there way of trying to keep the outside unit from staying iced over so the next time the unit runs it will have air flow through the coil and the ice will not be there to prevent air flow.
1. The units should match up without a problem.
2. You will need a 40 or 50 amp breaker for the A/H and 5 KW heat strip. You will probably need a 20 or 25 Amp for the condensing unit. I would check the FLA (full load amps) rating on both units, total them and install a breaker with no more than 20% more rating than the total. You can install a small box at the A/H with a breaker for the A/H and one for the condensing unit.
First check to see if you have afloat switch inside the air handler ar underneath the air handler. Its purpose is to shut the outside ac off if the drain stops up. Very common. If this is OK take cover off unit and with screw driver push in the contactor. It is located about the middle of the panel. It has main power at the bottom. If unit comes on you cave a control voltage problem. Meaning something is not allowing 24 volts to the contactor. If your out of Refrigerant the low pressure swich will have it off. Call a service tech. Rusty
Hi!!! Does your ac unit work fine?If not check your low voltage problem..You have a low voltage problem check the wire going out to your condensor make sure that they are not touching..Good luck..Check low voltage wires..short in progress..
Does the air handler take a minute or two to start, this would be normal so that it doesn't blow cool air into the house before the unit is warmed up. If not could be the fan relay is weak and needs replacing. As far as the outside unit it sounds like you need to check the refrigerant. In cooling they are 70/150 psi. This should be checked in cooling mode, once you turn it to heating mode the pressures switch bring heat inside the house instead of out. I hope this helps.
Whats the amp breaker? Is this for the inside unit or the outside condenser? If the inside and gas heat you have a bad fan motor, If its an electric furnace , the same, but if its the outside unit, the fan could be going bad, locking up and the compressor still runs and pulls high ampsand tripps breaker or the compressor is just pulling too many amps due to plugged coils with dirt , grass or weeds blocking airflow.(firstname.lastname@example.org)
we are trying to install a goodman heat pump with a rheem air handler, the orange wire is hook up and the unit is still staying in the heat mood. does anyone have a wiring diagram for the air handler, their is some white wires in the air handler one with a purple strip and one with a black strip we need help