Question about Whirlpool Kitchen Ranges
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Computer is cooked. Sorry to tell you.
I am a factory servicer for Electrolux / Frigidaire
I replace tons of those clock controls. They shouldn't be $160 though
Any questions about these stoves send me and email.
I will be glad to help you out.
Posted on May 23, 2008
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
Set the oven for bake. Wait a couple minutes and look in the oven. If you see a orange glow the ignitor is working, but, may need to be replaced.
If you see no orange glow the ignitor definitely needs to be replaced.
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
SOURCE: GE Spectra range
I just moved into a new apartment and my stove wasn't working properly. After reading the very helpful information posted by kd3ke, I decided to turn off the breaker to my stove, take off the back covering, and check out what was back there. I was experiencing the same problem as posted.... the burner light, oven light and clock were all working however, the burners did not get hot nor did the oven. After taking off the back panel, the cord did have just as he stated, a black, white, and red wire however the plug attatching to the stove did not have cordinating colors. It was just a grey cord with 3 copper wire heads. It seemed to me that the cord was twisted and therefore everything was backwards. Since I was relying on his post, that would explain why the stove still did have some power, just not all, because the voltagages were wrong. I flipped the three cord wires, reconnected them to the stove and then plugged it in and turned on the breaker... everything works now!!! :) I don't know if this will help anyone else since it may not be the same problem if your stove was working properly previously, but it fixed the problem for me since I had just moved in.
Posted on May 24, 2009
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