Question about Roper RAS8445KQ Top Load Washer
The most common cause of the problem you just described is a lid switch malfunction or lid strike (actuator) problem. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that will not drain.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because it does NOT have a lid strike (actuator) and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This type of switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator rod by bending it slightly.
NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.
Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
If the model number you listed this question under is correct, the part number for a replacement lid switch is 3949247. The lid strike (actuator) is 358684. The average price of a replacement lid switch is about $25 - $35 if you perform the repair yourself. The lid strike is usually less than $5. Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare.
Another cause of a no drain issue can be a clogged drain pump or drain line. The following link explains how to access the drain pump and replace (if necessary):
These pumps are strictly mechanical (no electrical connections) and have one moving part - the impeller. You will need to remove the drain lines to inspect the pump interior as these pumps do not come apart. Check the drain lines and impeller area for any lodged items. If the pump is damaged and needs to be replaced, the part number is 3363394 and usually costs about $30.
CAUTION: You will need to drain the wash tub PRIOR to removing any of the drain lines. A quick and easy way is to use a wet/dry shop vac to remove the water. If you do not own a shop vac, simple gravity will work by placing the drain hose on the ground and allowing the water to run out. If this is not feasible because of the washer location, you will need to bail.
If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. These are very simple repairs that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.
If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20.
Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.
Posted on Aug 03, 2010
It may also be a bad connection in your gear box,you can check this by removing the transfer case at the bottom of most roper washers inspect the gears for damage if damaged replace the gear box usualy around $75.00 at Napa or Sears. If that is not it you may need to replace the belt which is located on the fan sometimes it gets to hot and breaks so it wont pump water if it has no belt a cheap fix around 15-20 dollars.Thanks
Posted on Aug 13, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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