Re: A. O. Smith 1 1/2 hp. motor Type SP. Humms then
In my case the motor turned, but made a horrible sound and then caused the circuit breakers to open. I found this problem after moving and reconnecting the motor. I was supplying 230V to the motor, but apparently the "shunt" was set at 115V instead of 230V. (By "shunt" I mean the black plastic cube that you plug over the electrical lugs to select 115 or 230VAC.) I don't know how this happened. Perhaps I took off the shunt when attaching the power lines, but replaced it incorrectly. However the motor had been working normally for weeks until the problem developed. Perhaps the shunt was not making good electrical contact.
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is motor getting hot if so need new motor also check to see if wires on the back of the motor are loose or the wires to the breaker loose if they are ok you need a new pump motor or pump sometimes a whole pump is cheaper than fixing the old one
An ohm check doesn't tell you much about electrolytic capacitors except that they aren't shorted. One is a run capacitor (usually low uFd value) and the other is a start capacitor (large uFd). If either dried up, the power consumption should be reduced. Look at the cases of these units--they should not be bulged or leaking electrolyte. Check the rotation of the motor shaft by hand--it should spin freely. A worn out or seized bearing would produce these symptoms. Smell the motor to see if it has a burned odor. It's possible that the internal wiring has shorted. The 20 Amp circuit breaker could have failed--try moving the wiring to a similar breaker for a test. Hope some of this helps!
I would guess it is a short> possible causes: 1) outlet: turn off breaker to outlet pull cover off and look for burnt or loose wires 2) dryer cord: take back metal plate off of dryer look for burnt or loose wires 3) heating element 4) check all internal wiring for burnt or loose connections
The breaker for the dryer should be a 30 amp breaker, and should only trip that breaker. If it is tripping the main on the panel then something else is wrong. You will need to pull off the panel the the breaker box and pull out the dryer breaker and look to see if it burnt, make sure the wires are tight on the breaker, you may want to try a new breaker also. Hope this helps Tim
WD40 IS A WATER DISPERSANT AND WILL CAUSE MORE DAMAGE THAN GOOD ,IT WASHES AWAY OIL AND GREASE..
YOU MUST HAVE THE START SWITCH SET ,IT SHOULD BE CLOSED FOR START AND OPEN WHEN RUNNING.. NEW BEARINGS ARE THE ONLY GOOD FIX . YOU CAN TAKE THE BEARING IN YOUR HAND AT A SLIGHT ANGLE AND SPIN THE ROTOR, YOU CAN FEEL ANY BEARING DAMAGE THREW YOUR HAND
I'M YOUR LOCAL POOL PUMP REPAIR GUY IN LONGWOOD FLORIDA. WHERE THE POOL IS ALWAYS OPEN
The red and black wires if ran correctly are the load lines(power). The white is neutral or ground. If its a 1/2 to1-1/2 hp motor connect the red and black wires to terminals #1 and #4. If its 2 hp use #1 and #4. If its 3 hp use #2 and #4. Connect the white wire to the green colored screw. A grounding conductor should always be connected under the green grounding screw, which is located within the terminal compartment of the motor. You can check the breaker for the wire colors, one should be black and the other red. The white wire should be terminated to the neutral/ground bar in the can.
If you did not press a reset ( and even if you did) the motor is damaged and that is causing the circuit breaker to trip. You need to have the motor inspected to see if the damage is repairable or if you need a new motor. A local electric motor repair shop should be able to take care of that for you. The thermal overload has reset itself if after cooling down the motor is trying to start but trips the breaker.
To be certain it is the motor, disconnect the line leads and be sure they are insulated from ground and one another. Turn the breaker back on. It should stay closed which confirms it is the motor tripping it when connected.
If for some reason the breaker still trips, there is a problem with the electrical circuit feeding the pump.
Probably not. Take the capacitor off and inspect it for physical damage and if it looks ok take it to an electric motor shop for testing. Assuming it is ok your motor will probably need work or replacement.
ASSUMING THIS IS SINGLE PHASE HAVE YOU CHECKED THE CAPACITORS. START CAPACITOR COULD BE BAD OR BURNT LEAD. HAVE YOU MADE SURE THE PUMP IS NOT LOCKING UP. POINTS IN THE PRESSURE SWITCH LOOK GOOD. HOPE THIS HELPS, JODY