Fan won't Start. I turn the thermostat down and the compressor kicks on, but the fan won't start and get's hot immediately. Is the fan motor burnt up or is there another problem I should check?

Jason,
MOST refrigerators get there cold from the freezer side and circulate it via a fan that's also normally inside the freezer. There are three motors normally in a refrigeration system. The inside Evaporator fan motor that circulates air across the evaporator coil inside the box, the Condenser fan motor near the compressor that cools the freon after compression, and the compressor itself. If you open the doors (and sometimes you may have to hold in the door switches) do you hear a fan running? If not you could have a couple things going on: 1. The fan(s) has failed. 2. The freezer Evap coil may of iced over and the fan too is frozen stopped. 3. Your condensing unit:(compressor, condenser fan, condenser coils) has a problem.
It is important to know if the compressor itself is running. If there is a loose connection to the compressor via the start/over load relay (normally attaches directly onto the compressor), or if the start/over load otself is bad the compressor will not run. Best way to tell is via gauges but I doubt your frig has ports. Check to see if your compressor is really hot. Could be bad start/over load relay or bad compressor. Try unplugging your frig for say 30 min then, with your hand on top of a cool compressor, plug the frig back in and see if compressor smoothly vibrates for at least 5 min without becoming very hot or shutting off even though fan continues to run. The fact your fan is running TYPICALLY means the thermostat is calling for lower temps and the fan/compressor kick in together.



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1. Possible cause. Water leak. Check purge valve, water curtain, sump, sump hose.
2. Air filters clogged. Clean air filters.
3. Dirty condenser. Clean condenser.
4. Restricted location, intake air to hot. Have machine moved.
5. Ice thickness sensor dirty or disconnected. Check ice thickness sensor probe.
6. Water distributor dirty. Remove and clean water distributor.
7. Inlet water valve leaks through during freeze cycle. Check water inlet valve.
8. Connected to hot water. Check for bleed through from missing check valve in building water supply.
9. Incomplete harvest. Check harvest system.
10.High pressure cut out opened. Check fan motor pressure control, check fan motor, check controller using test mode.
11. Fan motor pressure control open. Check fan pressure control.
12. Fan motor not turning. Check fan motor, check fan blade,check controller using test mode.
13.Water pump not pumping. Check pump motor,check controller using test mode.
14. Pump hose disconnected. Check hose.
15. Compressor not operating. check compressor contactor, check controller using test mode.
Check compressor start components, check PTCR resistance and temperature, check compressor voltage, check compressor windings.
16. Low refrigerant charge. Add some refrigerant and restart unit. If cycle time imporves, look for a leak.
17. Hot gas valve leaks through during freeze. Check hot gas valve for hot outlet during freeze.
18. Thermostatic expansion valve bulb loose. Check bulb.
19. Thermostatic expansion valve producing very low or high superheat. Check evaporator superheat, Change TXV if incorrect.
20. Compressor inefficent. Check compressor amp draw, if low and all else is correcy, change compressor.

With the presence of a "burnt electric smell" and the "pop" I would be inclined to check and see if the start capacitor had not destroyed itself.

Hi simpsonruth1..
In the back of the compressor motor you will see a fan, remove the plastic cover to get to it..
Once you have the plastic cover removed and the fan exposed, plug the compressor in and spin the fan with your fingers...be quick as the fan could cut your fingers if you do not get them out of the way..
If the compressor starts working, then the start capacitor is bad on the compressor...if it does not run then you have motor troubles, either replace the motor or get it rewound.
Please take time to rate me

Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. The first thing to do is check the capacitor for the fan look at it and see if it is swollen or pitted. If the capacitor is okay then the fan motor may have gone bad.

First you should check the power for short circuit, second you have to check the fan motor if it is burnt or not,third check whether the compressor is burnt or not.These are the three reasons.If the powering is short circuited change the cables from the mccb.If the fan motor is burned out replace the fan motor or rewind the fan motor.If the compressor is burnt out replace the compressor, evacuate the refrigeration system and charge the refrigerant.

I am having the same problem, sometimes it runs in the wrong direction, blowing the air down. Sometimes something gets tripped and I need to turn the thermostat to off and wait a bit then restart it. If I am lucky it will run int the correct direction and also will warm the house. Sometimes it send nothing but cold air to the house's forced air.

The first thing to check is your breaker box. There should be one double breaker for the air handler unit, that's the inside unit, and one double breaker for the compressor, that's the outside unit. Check both breakers. If you're not sure if they've be thrown, click them toward the outside of the breaker box (off position) and then click them toward the inside of the breaker box (on position). If the breakers are on and you still are not getting any A/C take a look at your compressor, (outside unit). If the fan is running at least you're getting power. However, your compressor down inside the unit may not be getting power or it may need to be replaced. The compressor has a start-up cap. If this cap goes bad or the wires from this cap fry or corrode away, this will also keep the compressor from starting but the fan will still run. If the fan is not running it could be caused by a faulty relay inside the compressor cabinet. This relay is supposed to open and close based on a low voltage signal from the thermostat. I believe it's roughly 24 volts. This relay switches on and off the 240 volts for the compressor and the compressor fan. Often this relay goes bad or the wires leading up to it fry. If you?re going to work on the unit yourself make sure all power is shut off. There should be a shutoff switch on the outside wall near the compressor. I?d also shut the breakers off.

If it is making a continuous noise, and your air conditioner is still not cooling at all, there may be a serious problem with one or more of these areas:

Compressor

Condenser

Evaporator

OR

This could the problem the with short circuit or defective component you need to check :

Compressor

Overload and/or relay

Thermostat (Open thermostat)

Burnt wiring

Bad selector switch

Capacitor

Good luck....

Relay for the compressor may be stuck ( Contacts welded) both the fan and the compressor should operate at the same time. Have the relay(s) checked and possibly replaced.