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1998 chevy malibu

What is the resistance reading in ohms should I get with my simson meter to test if I have a bad coil

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Never mind the ohm mark all our wire remove them start the car you should see spark on all coil if you have one that dont spark most of time the coil is fryed on rare occation the module can be deffective most of time it the coil

Posted on Apr 30, 2008

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I have a cub cadet riding mower that the coilpack needs replaced but according to the manual book it has two coil packs so how do I know which one is bad


Test the Resistance on Each Coil Unplug the coil pack's electrical connector and use a wrench to remove the coil pack from the engine. Set the ohmmeter to the 20,000 ohms range and turn it on. With the meter leads, touch the spark plug wire terminal on each coil. This measures the secondary resistance, which should be between 5,000 ohms and 15,000 ohms. Next, check the primary resistance for each coil. Set the ohmmeter to the 10 ohms range. Touch one of the meter leads to the center prong on the electrical connector of the coil pack. Touch the other lead to the corresponding prong on the electrical connector. The reading should be between 0.3 and 1.0 ohms. Repeat the process for each coil.

Apr 24, 2017 | Cub Cadet Garden

1 Answer

Tem my briggs portable generator has no spark it appears ignition coil has failed. Items checked. disconnected kill wire to coil, disconnected oil sensor wire no spark this will be the 2nd coil


Test the coil electrically
A digital multimeter is required for testing the resistance levels of the ignition coil. The terminals of the coil are going to be marked "negative" and "positive," and these are the two points where the resistance of primary winding can be measured. Step 1: Prepare the multimeter
To check a 12 volt coil, set the multimeter to at least a 200 Ohms setting. Attach both leads of the meter to the coil-terminals with black to the negative terminal and red to the positive one.
Step 2: Test the resistance
The normal, acceptable range for a standard 12-volt car is 1.5 to 1.7 Ohms. See if the reading is within this range.
Step 3: Test the secondary coil resistance
Set the meter to 20K Ohm setting, and attach the leads to the ignition coil's center terminal. The reading for secondary-coil resistance should be 11, because if it is lower

Oct 26, 2016 | Briggs Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

I own a kenmore elite refrigerator model # 795.77563600 and it quits and the front display on door shows E r. D H. The fridge stops working complitly spoling all food


Fridge not starting?

MAY HAVE A BAD START RELAY OR CAPACITOR ON THE COMPRESSOR , CAN BUY A INEXSPENSIVE 3 IN 1 HARDSTART KIT AND BY PASS THEM , NOT THAT HARD TO DO, COMES WITH INSTRUCTIONS> BY THE WAY DO U HEAR ANY CLICKING SOUNDS FROM COMPRESSOR? BUT U MAY ALSO WANT TO CHECK UR COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT IF IT GOES BAD U MAY GET A NON START ALSO HAVE IT CHECKED FOR PROPER VOLTAGE AND OHMS RESISTANCE WHEN IN THE ON POSITION
A BAD DEFROST TIMER CAN SHUT DOWN COMPRESSOR HAVE IT CHECKED WITH MULTI METER.

to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..


AT TIMES YOU MAY HEAR THE COMPRESSOR CLICK OFF AND ON OVER AND OVER. Signs of a bad start relay or capacitor. Check with an OHMS meter for continuity (ohms) and voltage, capacitor can be checked for Microfares.
To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity



FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING:

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors, ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity


Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ


Feb 25, 2015 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

Defrost button is not working what can i do?


May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful)

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM

Feb 21, 2015 | Samsung Refrigerators

1 Answer

How do I defrost my samsung rf215


May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Apr 26, 2014 | Samsung Refrigerators

1 Answer

I am trying to replace the igniyion coil but i dont know which one is bad


  • Unplug the spark plug wires from the coil and label the wires if necessary for proper installation.
  • 4 Unplug the pack's electrical connector and remove the coil pack from the engine, using a wrench or ratchet and socket if necessary. If your coil pack is mounted on the back of the engine, raise the front of the vehicle and safely support it on two jack stands to reach the coil pack from underneath the engine.
  • 5 Set your ohmmeter to the 20000 ohms range. Turn on your meter and touch the spark plug wire terminals on one of the coils with the meter leads. You may get a reading between 5000 to 15000 ohms, depending on your particular model. This checks the secondary resistance.
  • 6 Set your ohmmeter to the 10 ohms range, and touch the terminal B+ (usually the center prong on the coil pack electrical connector) with one of the meter test leads, and touch the corresponding coil prong on the electrical connector with the other test lead. You may get a reading between 0.3 and 1.0 or more, depending on your particular model. This checks the primary resistance on each coil.
  • 7 Repeat steps 6 and 7 for each coil in the pack assembly, and compare your resistance readings to the specifications given on your vehicle service manual (see "Tips"). If your readings are out of range, replace the coil or coils as necessary.


  • Read more: How to Check Coil Packs With a Voltage Meter ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4912368_check-coil-packs-voltage-meter.html#ixzz13fJECvLx

    Oct 28, 2010 | 1997 Toyota Tercel

    1 Answer

    Dtc code p0121 and p2135 2007 chevy malibu


    both codes refer to the throttle position sensor, the sensor is at the throttle plate, on the side of the throttle body. to test remove the connector to sensor, use a ohms meter to test. put 1 lead to top connection and the other to the bottom one. move throttle and the needles on the ohms meter should move very even, move throttle slow to get a good reading, needle should move without no hesitation, if the test is bad replace tps sensor. if the sensor gets to bad, it can have an effect on transmission shifting. after fixing sensor have the light turned of with an obd2 scanner.

    Feb 14, 2010 | 2007 Chevrolet Malibu Maxx LTZ Hatchback

    1 Answer

    I need to know how to test the ignition coil on a 1995 jetta


    to test the coil you must use an ohm meter and remove the wire connections from the coil, first test the coil from B+ to the center coil wire tower, read the Resistance on the coil and write it down next test between the positive post and to the negitive post read the Resistance next test the negative side to the center post or tower read the resistance there should be no more than 2000 ohms resistance on any test and if it reads 0 resistance it means it's shorted and needs to be replaced, be sure to set the select lever to it's highest ohms resistance level before testing.

    Jun 24, 2009 | 1996 Volkswagen Jetta

    1 Answer

    P1370 and p1350 trouble codes


    P1370 Ignition Control (IC) Module 4x Reference too many pulses

    P1350 Ignition Control System

    Ok, these codes are signaling a malfunction within the Ignition control module. it is sending way to many signals to the coil. i recommend testing the coil for damage and irregular resistance. i will explain how to do this below. i would replace the module as well. The control moduel is Located Under hood, center, rear engine area, above valve cover, mounted in base of ignition coil pack

    Ignition Coil Test Procedures__

    Ignition Coil Resistance

    * with the key off and the battery lead to the ignition coil disconnected, use an Ohmmeter to measure the primary and secondary winding resistance of the ignition coil. when checking the resistance across the windings, pay particular attention to the meter reading. if the reading is out of specifications, even if it is only slightly out, the coil or coil assembly should be replaced.
    * To check the primary windings, calibrate an ohmmeter on the X1 scale and connect the meter leads to the primary coil terminals to test the winding.

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    * An infinite ohmmeter reading indicates an open winding. The winding is shorted if the meter reading is below the specified resistance. Most primary windings have a resistance of 0.5 to 2 ohms, but the exact manufacturer's specifications must be compared to the meter readings.
    * To check the secondary winding, calibrate the meter on the X1,000 scale and connect it from the coil's secondary terminal to one of the primary terminals.


    813a25f.jpg
    # A meter reading below the specified resistance indicates a shorted secondary winding. An infinite meter reading proves that the winding is open.
    # In some coils, the secondary winding is connected from the secondary terminal to the coil frame. When the secondary winding is tested in these coils, the ohmmeter must be connected from the secondary coil terminal to the coil frame or to the ground wire terminal extending from the coil frame. Many secondary windings have 8,000 to 20,000 ohms resistance, but the meter readings must be compared to the manufacturer's specifications. The ohmmeter tests do not indicate such defects as defective insulation around the coil windings, which causes high-voltage leaks.

    May 17, 2009 | 1997 Cadillac DeVille

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