Question about Toshiba 42HP95 Television

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Pushing power does not turn on or create a steady red power light, but a blinking red light. No audio or visual

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This is a classic switchmode power supply, shutting down to avoid a fire, explosion, or both. This set had developed a problem, that is so severe that the set must be shut down, This set should be removed from the Power, and in my professional recommendation, you should get a "Quote" for repair, from, an Toshiba , Approved Service Center, this point is very important for a good result, Always contact, their local, "Head Office" Now, when you get the information you want, then you can decide as to repair of replacement. The reason we want an approved agent, is that way, all the engineers are trained on their own brand sets, they have seen almost all faults, and will get the job done quicker, and for less cost, and usually have parts on hand.
www.tacp.toshiba.com/tacpassets-images/.../42hp95/docs/42hp95_om_e.pdf
Above is your user manual, below is your service manual.
https://www.completeservicemanuals.com/toshiba/plasma-television/42hp95-service-manual/prod_198.html
Below is a Training manual, this is what is used to train engineers to repair these units. www.scribd.com/.../Training-Toshiba-PLASMA-TV-PDP-42WP37 -


With this symptom, it is impossible to tell what the exact "Cause" of this symptom is. The LED's do not tell us what is wrong, sometimes it may indicate the "Area" in your case it is the X board. BUT thats NOT where the "Fault is" thats just the part that is affected. These days unlike the "Old" analogue days it just isn't realistically possible to fix anything but the most basic of problems with todays sophisticated units. This is quite apart from the Safety aspect, any unit that can cause a firs or have an explosion, or both, is NOT to be treated lightly, and and the repairer, of the unit is legally responsible, another thing to think about. Also, one must have tools, a Multimeter, a soldering iron, a deslodering iron, an oscilloscope, a signal tracer, tools, and most important of all, a Service Manual, without which, there is no way to even begin to understand and fix it, and more importantly Program it, AFTER it has been fixed. As these days a TV, is a PC, a Tuner, and an HDTV Monitor, and more, all in one. in the "old" days TV"s were more, rudimentary, and built to last for 20 years, and a "Parts" supply was set aside. They usually used to fail for only a few reasons, and they while still difficult, were less difficult to repair. Electrical knowledge was transferable, and they could be and would respond to, This-is-the-symptom-This-us-the-Fix, But that no longer applies, as now, it can be a Fault on I squared Bus, or "Sensor" failure, or it simple may have "Crashed" just like a PC, It could be a Diode go bad, and that will stop the whole thing. You see, in the day, the sets were Very "Fault Tolerant" because they were Analouge, and a faulty, component, or more sometimes, the set would always diplay something usually, and when they didn't it was one of only a few things, sure there are always the horrid ones, and there are pleanty of those, but all in all it was quite easy. But with Digital Electronics, it either goes, or it doesnt, there are usualy few half measures. I mean thats the definition of logic either going or not. So it can take very little to completely paralyse a set, and generally give the only sysmptom, it can, by not working, usually No picture, or the like. So you, see the list is endless almost for any given SYMPTOM, as that is what is being seen, not the cause, as I keep going on about. Also any fault, usually involves the Power Supply, it is either the cause, the cause of the damage, or it is damaged. or ALL of them. Then after you have done the electronic repairs, you then must program the set to work, and align, and set up in general, any one of those settings missed or done wrong, back to square one.

Posted on Aug 03, 2010

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LED Display gives you your display visual alerts, signal strength, and operation mode. Here is an attached link for the manual.....http://www.uniden.com/pdf/LRD6399SWSom.pdf
But to answer your question here is what the difference between the green light and the red light are:
1. X-Band Signal Indicator—A green LED lights and blinks to
indicate the presence of an X-band radar signal. The blink rate
increases as the radar source gets closer. A distinct audio alert is
also heard.
2. K-Band Indicator— An amber (orange) LED lights and blinks to
indicate the presence of a K-band radar. The blink rate increases as
the radar source gets closer. A distinct audio alert is also heard.
3. Ka-SuperWideband Signal Indicator— A yellow LED lights and
blinks to indicate the presence of a Ka-SuperWideband radar
signal. The blink rate increases as the radar source gets closer. A
distinct audio alert is also heard.
4. Laser Signal Indicator— A red LED under L lights and blinks to
indicate the presence of a laser signal. A distinct audio alert is also
heard.
5. SWS Signal Indicator— When an early warning hazard or
informational signal is detected, the yellow SWS LED begins to
blink and the amber K-band LED lights. A distinct audio alert is
also heard.
6. Power-On Indicator— A green LED under P lights to indicate
power is being supplied to the unit and the unit is turned on.
7. LED Signal Strength Meter—Four LEDs give an accurate visual
indication of the strength of radar or laser signals.
8. City Mode Indicator—A green LED under C lights to indicate
that you selected City Mode.
9. Auto Mute Indicator— A red LED under M lights to indicate that
you selected the Auto Mute feature.

Please make sure you give me a rating and I hope this helps,
cbinny1



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