Question about Frigidaire 13.7 cu. ft. Upright Freezer FFU1464F

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Defrosting??? Notice that sometimes I have water on the floor around the freezer and the food inside is thawing out. Than usually about 24 hours later everything becomes frozen again. This only seems to happen about once every three to four months. Is this how it becomes frost-free and is this good for the food inside?

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  • Anonymous Jul 21, 2008

    I have a side-by-side that does this weekly. Water on the floor, thawing of ice. Ice cream must be tossed. This can't be right!

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If auto defros, check the auto defros drain, yes there is one that geys evaporated by the coil heat. Is the 134 level OK, is the comp working? To many possibilities, to few details.

Posted on Dec 04, 2012

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Your food should not thaw in a frost free freezer. but I can not tell you why it is thawing, sorry.

Posted on Jun 04, 2008

  • Hammer Dec 04, 2012

    Wow, that was helpful.

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Feb 20, 2014 | Freezers

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Kenmore Freezer 106.727581: The freezer ices up and the temp goes up to 34 degrees. If I manually defrost it, it goes to 5 below zero in about 6 hours. How can I determine which of the below need to be...


The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater. To determine if the defrost heater is burned out, watch this part testing video

Aug 21, 2011 | Kenmore Freezers

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Hello, The drain behind the back panel in the freezer is frozen or blocked up. Remove the back panel remove as much ice as possible and pour boiling water in the bottom section under the evaporator. be careful not to touch the aluminum it will cut you or break. you will see the drain hole sometimes it takes a while to thaw all the ice. Hope this helps and please rate me Thank You.

Jun 07, 2011 | Kenmore Freezer 20.3 cu. ft. Frost Free...

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Temperature Alarm


although you could just close the door and it should right itself,could it be the right time for a total defrost and clean.all the drains/vents.....auto defrost only does the inside of the unit,

Jun 24, 2010 | Frigidaire 13.7 cu. ft. Upright Freezer...

1 Answer

FREEZER MAKING ICE, BUT FOOD IS THAWING


If you have a Freezer on the top model Kenmore, with warm temps in the fridge, AND water dripping onto the top shelf of the lower fresh food compartment (FFC), this is usually caused by a clogged defrost drain. Since Kenmore is not an actual manufacturer of anything, they take other brands, i.e. Kitchenaid, GE, Frigidaire, etc., take their names off and put on a shiny Kenmore nametag. This is a common problem with Kitchenaid refrigerators. You can determine if your Kenmore is made by kitchenaid by looking at the model # tag. the first three digits will indicate the manufacturer, Kitchenaids begin with the sequence, 106.*.If this is indeed how your model # begins, keep reading. Since the water cant go down the drain tubing to the pan at the bottom of the unit, it builds up on the freezer floor, eventually blocking the air return vents from the fridge to the freezer, and the vent from the freezer to the fridge. YOu can check this very easily. Look at the ceiling of your FFC, near the back. toward the sides you will see two square holes, about 2" square, stick your finger and feel around the inside of those holes, do you feel any ice/frost, or do you just feel styrofoam, you might even see frost/ice below the level of your ceiling? This drain usually gets clogged with defrost water that does not completely drain, then of course it freezes, eventually plugging up the drian hole located at the level of your freezer floor, behind the back wall. The water keeps accumulating, and freezing, on the freezer floor, eventually filling in and clogging the air vents..no air flow , the fridge wont cool. The easiest way to resolve this, empty out all contents and store someplace cold for 24 hours...a 2nd fridge, outside in a cooler if its cold like here in chicago. After its empty, unplug, open both doors and blow a fan for 24 hours. Prepare for an abundance of water due to melting ice.
After you defrost, you can plug it back in and it will be fine, HOWEVER, I suggest you take the back freezer wall off, you might have to take a floor cover off first, likely 2-4 screws in both the floor and the back wall. When you have the evaporator exposed, you will see a black cal rod defrost heater underneath the evaporator, as well as your drain hole just to the right of center underneath both heater and evaporator. Take a piece of 12-14 gauge solid, not stranded wire, removing the insulation and exposing the entire 6-8" piece of copper wire. wrap the wire around the diameter of the cal rod heater, 3-4 turns should be sufficient, and stick the other end of the wire down that drain hole. This will melt any ice that will build up in the future, everytime your unit goes into defrost cycle, so this wont happen again.

If air vents are clear of frost/ice, next thing to check is the back wall of your freezer, does there appear to be frost/ice/snow on the back wall? If so, your unit is not defrosting. On most Kenmores, this is usually caused by your defrost timer, located in the canopy mounted at the top of the FFC on Top freezer models, or your defrost thermostat, which is clipped onto the evaporator coil inside your freezer. Again, if its a 106 model Kenmore, this thermostat will have a pink and a brown wire coming into/out of it. My suggestion, if it isnt defrosting, change both. tjhe defrost control will connect with a plug, but you will have to hard wire the thermostat, ( cut wires from old, strip wire, and connect using wire nuts and electrical tape.)

Since y ou mentioned the water accumulation, more water recently, my diagnosis would be the former versus the latter, as the lack of actual defrosting coincides with lack of defrost water, however I'll never say never.

If your unit is a side by side model, check for ice on freezer floor...clogged drain. Check again for frost/ice on back wall, not defrosting, check same two parts, (the heaters rarely go bad on Kitchenaids, but never say never) You should also check for air flow into fridge, even if no frost / ice visible on back wall. Open the FFC door, and locate the air vent near the top, back of the fridge, on the left wall. While depressing the door switch, AND WITH THE FREEZER door closed, put your finger/hand near that vent. Do you feel any cold air? If you dont, you could have a bad door damper, not uncommon, or a bad damper control--> the temperature control WITHOUT the off or "0" position.

If any of this seems a bit overwhelming, I suggest you have a reputable repair technician check your fridge.

Oh, and lastly, you WILL NOT have two compressors, one for each compartment, nor will you have two sets of defrost heating elements, one for each half.
ALL cooling for 99% of refrigerators made in last 25 years takes place in the freezer, with the fridge being an empty box, except for an air intake vent, and an air exhaust vent which leads directly back into the freezer. When a refrigerator unit seems to still be cold in the freezer, but not cold enough or not cold at all in the FFC, its ALWAYS going to be caused by lack of air flow. But as you can see, there are a few things that can cause that lack of air flow.

Apr 05, 2010 | Frigidaire 14.1 cu. ft. Upright Freezer...

1 Answer

Freezer defrosted and the motor won't start back up.


From what I can gather, you have a self defrosting freezer and the "motor" you speak of is the fan inside the freezer. If this is correct, do this:
Unplug freezer. Unload all food into coolers or other freezer space. Leave freezer door open for a day to allow it to manually defrost. Plug freezer back in after minimum 24 hours and confirm fan running and cooling before loading back up with food.

Mar 28, 2009 | GE 16.7 cu. ft. Upright Freezer FUF17DTR

1 Answer

Freezer Defrosting


After a defrost cycle the ice around the evaporator melts, that water goes out and lands in a tray under the refrigerator. But sometimes the tube gets clogged and water spills inside the freezer and if enough water accumulates, it will make it to the floor. To fix this problem look for a small hole inside the refrigerator and open it up using a can of compressed air. Hope this helps

Aug 05, 2008 | Freezers

1 Answer

Kenmore freezer peeing on my floor


  • if the door was not closed correctly for a while then a lot of condensation will be accumulated on the freezer coils. 
  • then when going into defrost it melts this ice/frost and overflows the pan or container under the machine which relies on evaporation to dispel  of the water.
  • empty the pan under the refrigerator if you can, then give it another day, it will get back to normal.
if you already checked this and think it is a different problem then let me know, i will help you figure it out. 
Mike  

Jul 12, 2008 | Kenmore 16.7 cu. ft. / 473 liter Upright...

1 Answer

Freezer Thawing Out


This will not cause a freon leak and it is possible that the door was left open, but to be certain that you don't have a defrost issue, follow the guide below to diagnose any problems. Also the warm walls are normal during compressor run times.
Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0047_3.asp
If your freezer cools but doesn't get cold enough, it may have a problem in one of several areas. To better understand the proper operation of a freezer, read about freezers in the How Things Work section of our website.

In a self-defrosting freezer, poor cooling often results from a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel inside your freezer. But if you see any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, ceiling, or floor of your freezer, it's a sure sign of frost build-up. And that's a sign of a problem with the self-defrosting system.

Freezers should self-defrost three to four times in 24 hours. But if a component in the self-defrosting system fails, the freezer continues to try to cool, instead. Eventually, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There's still some cooling because the coils are frozen. But with no air flow over the coils, the cooling is quite limited and the freezer isn't as cold as it needs to be.

An easy (though often inconvenient) test of whether the problem is with the self-defrosting system is to remove all of the perishable food from the freezer, turn the thermostat to Off, and leave the door open for 24 to 48 hours. (Keep several towels handy in case the melting frost and ice overflows the drip pan). This "manually" defrosts the freezer. When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the freezer then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of these components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer. To test this, manually advance to the defrost cycle. The unit should advance itself out of the defrost cycle in about 45 minutes.

  • The defrost thermostat (or bi-metal switch). This thermostat allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees (depending on its design). This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on.

  • The defrost heater. You can test this for continuity using an electrical meter.
If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"


Jun 19, 2008 | Frigidaire Freezers

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