Question about LG WM-1832C Front Load Washer

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Drumbearings - is it worth replacing them and

Drumbearings - is it worth replacing them and does the rear drum assemblyl have to be replaced?

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Spin bearing replacement is quite a big job..You may also have to replace the shaft which goes from the pulley to the inner drum.
The easiest way to do the job is to replace the rear drum, but the bearings and seals can be replaced individually...Get quotes for both methods..
Good luck....Nomess

Posted on Aug 03, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Replace bearings in drum


If this is a front load washer, replacing the back drum bearings is probably not worth it cost and time. It usually requires a complete strip down and removal of the complete outer tub and drum assembly.Once removed the outer tub has to be split in half to remove the spin drum. Rear bearing is sometimes part of the back half of the outer tub so that half will need to be replaced and possibly the rear shaft on the back of the spin basket. I have done a few and it takes 2 techs and about 4 or 5 hrs to do the complete job. Only worth the time and parts if still under warranty.

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We overloaded the dryer and now the dryer is making a loud noise


The rear drum bushing or the front drum slides (or both) are probably worn out. You can view the rear drum bushing by removing the small plate in the center of the rear panel. Check if the center pin on the drum is touching the rear drum bushing housing. The rear bushing is made of plastic and is only about 1/16" thick, so look closely. If the loud noise is metal on metal at the rear drum bushing, replace the whole rear bushing assembly (drum center pin, bushing, and housing). Often, the front drum slides also need to be replaced. Check them before you buy the rear bushing. There are two at the bottom front of the drum and four more at the top front of the drum. You'll have to remove the front panel to check them.

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Good day,
For the cost, it isn't worth not changing. If it's down, remove the drum and check the rear wheels as well.
P.S. If you remove the drum, after re-installing make sure the felt on the back of the drum doesn't double over for you. If it does, assemble then take a small thin screw driver and as you rotate the drum, roll it back in place.

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Hi, when dryer is running it is noisy. It is level, all 4 legs are tight and have rubber feet attached. Noise continues after load is leveled and when only 1 or 2 small items are being dried. Appears to be...


You need to replace the 2 rear drum roller wheels and probably the rear drum felt seal. While you have it torn down inspect the front drum glides for wear.
This dryer is worth repairing.

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The rear drum support must be replaced.The supporting ball has eaten into the support cup.The belt will have stretched and must be replaced also. You can do the job yourself.

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When turning the knob to start dryer, buzzing sounds but drum doesn't start to turn unless you gently push atart the inside drum


The problem is either a faulty start winding in the motor, or the circuit which energizes the start winding is failing.

A dryer motor has two windings: start & run. The start winding gets it going and a centrifugal switch disconnects the start winding when the motor gets up to speed.

Check the dryer start switch -- then the motor connections and the centrifugal switch inside the motor.

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1 Answer

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In my humble opinion, a dryer making a grinding noise is worth repairing. Possible Problems:

Worn Drum Rollers (Very Likely): More of a thumping / grinding sound. Replacing drum roller supports is considered to be a routine "normal ware & tear" repair with parts costing about $15 - $20 or so. Its' kinda like a tune-up for a vehicle. The rollers can be located in a couple places, but are typically located on the inside rear of the drum; upon dis-assembling the dryer.

Broken/Loose Blower Fan Wheel (Likely): The blower wheel can become loose or brake off the motor shaft and can make a "rumbling / grinding sound and can run about $15 - $25 for the part. The degree is difficulty when repairing a little high, but is commonly performed.

* Note: Removing and threading the blower wheel is reverse to prevent the fan blower from natually spinning/coming-off "Righty loosey, lefty tighty"

- C

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as long as your sure its an item between the tub assy the baffles in the drum can be removed and item fished out. but ifsomething snapped on the rear of the drum you would need to replace it. the baffle part number is 8182233, its about $40 thinknin thats worth a try before 475. the lower acess panel could also be removed and the main tub to pump hose could be removed which would give you a 3in hole to look through and try to grab somethin. worth a try

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2 Answers

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If the rear bearing is bad it will require the replacement of the entire rear tub shell. This is because the bearing is molded into the plastic and cannot be replaced separately (I know, its a stupid design). Sometimes additional damage can occur and the inner spin basket and front shell may also need replaced. In addition, what may seem like a bad rear bearing, might be a broken tub support on the spin basket. In a nutshell, you may have to replace both tub shells and spin basket at a minimum. With parts and labor the repairs could cost $600-$800. If you have no extended warranty or service plan coverage, it may not be worth the effort to repair due to the excessive cost. Sorry...I wish I had better news for you. I hopes this provides you with some answers.

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