Question about Frost Free Sillcock, 12"

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Just installed new 12" sillcock when i open valve to full it does not seem to be coming out with full preasure. when you turn the knob it only seems to have a short stroke between open and closed. I noticed that at the store but i just figured that was the new design either on full or off. Is there an adjustment for this. I really dont want to pull it all out to get another one.I also picked up another one and it had the same short stoke betwen open and closed.

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90 degree closed to open ball valves are very common. Not all allow full flow. Go back to hardware store and check out the one you bought.

Posted on Jun 18, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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The regulator has a very strong spring inside causing knob to get harder to turn as you increase the pressure (increase clockwise). If the knob is easy to turn most likely stripped inside. If knob gets tight as you turn then plunger at rear of regulator is stuck. On the back side of the manafold directly opposite the adjustment knob is a small nut housing a plunger. Let out all the air from the tank and remove the nut. Seperate the nut and plunger, lube and re-install. If the regulator knob is stripped you will need to replace the manafold or as a temp fix remove the safety valve (let out air from tank first) and install a tee fitting. On one port of the tee reinstall the safety valve and on second port install quick fitting for full tank pressure (or install aftermarket pressure regulator ).

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Yea you got solder inside the silcock, when you solder the pipe the second time that only move it around.

Take the entire sillcock off and remove the stem so you can see inside to day light re heat and melt all the melted solder out then being that you now have tinned ends. the solder is on both ends male and female you just need to heat the two and just "touch" the top of the fitting with new solder

I mean just touch less than a 1/4 inch melt down and the re install the stem

Good Luck Rich

Sep 07, 2011 | Frost Free Sillcock, 12"

1 Answer

Its at 100 psi, im trying to push it up more but when i turn the knob the psi wont go up. when its pumping and me turning the knob seems to go up 125 max, but when i use it, it goes rite back down to 100...


When you want full pressure / volume from the tank, you will need to bypass the regulator. Easy task. Drain air from tank. Remove the safety pop valve (usually 1/4 npt thread) and install a tee fitting. Replace the pop valve on one port and install a quick connect on the other giving you full pressure when you need it. Good luck with your projects.

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Either the rubber seal that shuts off the water is stuck or jammed sideways, or the sillcocks are corroded internally, which with everything being made in China is no surprise.

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I am repairing a Mansfield Anti-siphon Wall Hydrant that is about 10 years old. I got the valve disassembled, and replaced the end gasket as the old one had worn out. I can't seem to get the valve shaft...


the threads on the stem wear out over time. Sounds like the problem to me. You either need to find a new stem or replace the whole sillcock, they do not make your model anymore. They were bout out by Prier valves and are not exactly the same anymore.

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1 Answer

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It seems that the steam solenoid valve is stuck open. This can be because of a small part from water usualy scale or lese is stuck in bettween the solenoid valve rod, or the whole valve rod is full of scale so it can not move. You can open the valve an by using a wire brush you can clean all the parts and the valve can work perfect again. If the valve is rusty or full of hard scale then you need a new one.
Good luck.
Remeber to vote for this answer.

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Have you tightened the nut around the valve or have you backed off the nut then screw it in and then tighten nut? And yes you can get a kit at any hardeware store but you will have to take it apart to get the right seals.

Jun 27, 2009 | Frost Free Sillcock, 12"

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