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Your set contains three projection tubes (picture tubes) the typical life of these are about half that of a regular picture tube television, around 20,000 hours of operation.
As those tubes age the light emission from them slowly starts to decline. Other symptoms include colors being off slightly or a greenish screen. The symptom you are experiencing is called "contrast loss". That means the difference between bright and dark features in your picture tend to get closer together. This loss of resolution (also the picture might start to get fuzzier then it used to be) is a function of your projection unit wearing out. Since it costs nearly as much to replace a set of tubes (all three must be replaced at the same time) as to replace your set. I would suggest taking your time, read reviews and look for a new set.
How long has it been since you last changed the lamp and did you use an original Sony Lamp? It sounds like the lamp is going bad.Pull it out and examine the reflector. If it is all cloudy, it is time to replace the lamp. The reflector on the new lamp will be shiny like a mirror. Please be sure to rate this solution. Thanks!
That model is famous for having bacterial contamination in the CRT coolant causeing halos, and dim pictures with bad overall color issues. You can look into the lens of the CRTs when the set is laying and if the coolant looks cloudy or has any growth there you will notice it right away, and changing the coolant will restore color, clarity and brightness.
I've had the arcing horizontal lines from time to time in all three colors (differing occasions). I dunno the correct lingo for this stuff, but having the same TV and fixing it myself here goes. It helps to have another set of hands while doing this. Also, eventually you will need to work in the dark so have a small flashlight handy. Put your tv on an unused input so you always have a "dark" background.
Open up the front panel of the TV.... There are phillips head screws running down both sides around the back side of the panel. After removing the screws and the little side panels they screw into, the whole bottom half of the TV can be popped off. Be careful not to pull it off to far as there is wiring running to the front panel controls. (you can disconnect the wiring plugs if you need the panel out of your way, just remember where and which way they go.) Behind the main silver panel is a smaller panel made of a thin pressboard type material. Remove this panel as well. Inside this second panel you will find 3 little knoblike controls (that also have a screwdriver head) that control the "color drive" of the corrosponding guns. They have a little strip of locktite on them to keep them from moving but it dosent hold on to hard. I'm telling you all this from memory and I'm sure the real techs out there head's are about to explode due to my cavalier attitude toward all this. I wish I could tell you exactly which one is the blue but i've adjusted them all at one time of another and can't remember which one is which.
Pick your favorite knob and SLOWLY adjust it to the right. Just a little bit....too much and your TV will pop off and you'll think you've blown up your tv. (I did this once, and had to uplug the tv and let it sit for a little bit before it came back to life, I probably got real lucky on that one)
Now...as you SLOWLY turn this knob, one of two things will happen. one.....another color arc is going to appear on your tv...this tells you you've got the wrong knob. turn it back to where it was. two....your blue arcs will brighten... thats the one you want. Kill the lights in the room...the darker the room the better. Turn the knob down (to the left) until the point at which the arcs disappear, if you go too far, that color will be "underdriven" so you want to hit it just right. It helps to have someone at the back of the room to better observe the arcs, it can be hard to do this sitting as close as you have to be to adjust the magic knobs.
Repeat if you have any green or red arcs.
Use some locktite on the knobs when you have them where you want them, i've used nail polish if I didn't have locktite available.
you "tooled around with the convergence board"
well this chassis has several problems
if the convergence doesnt hold replace both stks
resolder around that area per tosh tech bulletin
the bright problem is probably the hyper module
all toshs should be checked with toshiba website to see if they were part of the recalls for power supply caps