Question about Goodman CKL49AR49 Air Conditioner
I do not have the resistance of the 3.5 ton compressor and I was wondering where should I find it. Does the manufacturer ( Goodman ) have it? I am talking about the starting coil and the running coil. I have found that the evaporator in the newer units from this company tend to leak in a very short time. Are they making the tubes in the coil thinner, or what?
Thanks for your help, cool guys.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
goodman makes the cheapest unit on the market bar none. they are the absolute lowest end of the scale when buying a system. they are for that reason the best selling unit in the industry. so you should expect loud and clunky performance. expect only that they will perform, but dont even begin to expect them to perform quietly or smoothly. your warranty is only a year on these cheap pieces of equipment compared to a 5 or 10 year parts and labor warranty on trane and am standard equipment,so the labor will eat you alive on the cheap stuff. and when the expensive parts fail they will be really expensive.all compressors are now manufactured by about three compressor manufacturers, copeland tecumseh and bristol. so what ever brand you buy will have possibly the same compressor in it. all ac s in recent years have expansion valves that require a hard start kit. many cheap sluggo installers will not add the required hs kit even though they know it is needed and required by the manufacturer. so if the txv ( thermostatic expansion valve ) is a non pressure equalizing valve it has trouble starting against unequal pressure and voila , the compressor wont start. i have seen many a dumb+++ add a start kit to boost starting torque when the oem run capacitor is in fact weak or bad . if run cap is weak (test it) the start cap will temp fix. but you have not really fixed the problem if the run cap is bad eventually it will fail then no start again etc. despite the fact its a year old heres what you need to do. check filter for cleanliness. vacuum out drain for clean and clear drainage, run unit 15 minutes on a warm day , check run caps on fan outside and on compressor outside . they should be within 10 percent of rated mf values printed on side.feel suction line, cold? ok. not cold? call a pro for under charged or inefficient compressor. if cold then look at contactor points. they should be clean and golden colored. no char ,no gray or dark areas. a pro can tell with gages if charge is low or compressor is weak. as high pressure falls off and gets low ,suction pressure gets weak and rises. this would be a weak or bad compressor. as head ( high) pressure falls and suction pressure also falls this would be a case of low ref charge. you as a home owner can stick a cheap thermometor in the incoming and outgoing duct and expect to see a difference of 20 degrees . less equals low charge, or weak compressor,
Posted on Oct 12, 2008
I'm not sure of the kilowatts. The 10 min on and 5 off is telling me there is to much heat by the thermostat or you house needs more insulation. The new compressor is designed for more efficient run time. The other thing is the unit to big for your house? It should run 10 -15 min when low humidity is in the house. Otherwise longer if its pretty warm inside.
Posted on Jun 11, 2009
are you speaking of the outside fan or inside? compressor should be a little warm but not boiling hot. the unit could be low on freon. if low it will run a while but the compressor will overheat and shut off leaving the fan running by itself ouside. if nothing outside is running check power. if you have power check the contacted outside to make sure it's pulled in. contacters are bad about going out on goodman untis. Also ants can get under contacts.
Posted on Jun 18, 2009
In order to freeze, some refrigerant must be present. The outdoor units compressor overhats and will cut out, the fan stays on, if poor refigernat charge is the problem. This overload will not reset for 1-3 hours, just enough time to defrost and refail again.
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
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Apr 12, 2015 | Carrier Heating & Cooling
Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Test
Remove the coil. THEN set your ohmmeter scale to RX1 and place ohmmeter leads on the primary coil windings A (front of coil) to B (middle of coil), B to C (front of coil) and check for primary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range is zero point five and zero point seven ohms. If primary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.
Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit Test
With the ignition coil removed from the motorcycle and the ohmmeter set to the RX1K scale place the ohmmeter leads on the secondary coil windings B (middle terminal) to
R (rear secondary terminal/socket), B to F (front secondary terminal/socket) and check for secondary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range will be 5.5-7.5K ohms. If secondary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.
A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding which requires coil replacement.
A high resistance value might indicate that there is some corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals requiring the coil terminals to be cleaned and the resistance test then repeated and if after the test is repeated the resistance is still high after the terminals were cleaned the coil must be replaced.
If there is an infinite ohms or no continuity) resistance value the coil is open and must be replaced.
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