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No heat in dryer it is elec have replaced element

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Check the safety stats also check the voltage going to the dryer

Posted on Apr 25, 2008

6 Suggested Answers

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: replacing the heating element Kenmore dryer 110 64892

nestor, on the posted model, you want to drop the lower front panel. Take a puddy knife and push in on the clips on each side and it will pull off. Kill the power to the dryer. On the right you will see the heater housing. The housing will have a front deflector. You can remove that deflector by removing the screw on the bottom or simply just bend it down out of the way. Remove the 2 wires on the left that attach to the element itself. On the left side of the housing there will be a quarter inch screw that holds the element in place. Use a small socket set to get it off. Now the element will pull right out of the housing. Sometimes they are difficult to pull out but it will come out. Did you ohm out that element to make sure that was the culprit? Catriver.

Posted on Dec 09, 2007

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: replacing Kenmore dryer parts

that one is old enough to vote..if filter on top remove back find small hole on right just below top may be hidden by pasted on tech sheet..through hole insert long socket 5/16 or reach up from underneath with short ratchet and socket remove screws and attached wires lift element housing up slightly and pull bottom of housing out and down..5/16 screw on backside holdes element in

Posted on Jun 19, 2008

  • 1122 Answers

SOURCE: Cabrio Electric Dryer Heating Element

have you checked the high temp thermostat?

Posted on Sep 05, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: replaced element and dryer still won't heat

You replaced the heating element, but did you check the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) or Hi Limit Thermostat? These two components work in conjunction to regulate the temperature of the heating circuits. In most dryer related heat problems, the TCO will fail before the heating element.

The TCO is located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element leads. The Hi-Limit Thermostat is also located on the outside of the heater box, but is located adjacent to the heating element leads. Both these components should read 0 ohms with a multimeter if good. If either component is found to be defective, you must replace BOTH of them at the same time. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any components you replace. Thats why these two parts are usually sold as a set. The part number is 279816 and can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.om
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

You can view a diagram of these components using the helpful exploded view diagrams on the any of the first three websites I have listed. The last website only shows part illustrations. The TCO and High Limit Thermostat will be listed as items 6 and 15 respectively under the "Bulkhead' parts section. NOTE: Item 6 comes with item 15 when ordering.

Another thing to consider is the input voltage at the wall receptacle. Did you verify the voltage was correct? You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

Now if you determine the TCO is defective, it usually blows for a reason. It usually fails due to an overheat condition. This is commonly caused by clogged or poorly installed exhaust vent ducting. If you haven't inspected or cleaned the dryer interior, or external ducting recently, now would be a good time to do so before you replace any parts. If left in a poorly ventilated condition, a dryer will overheat to the point of failure. Which may potentially ruin any new parts you replace.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Oct 09, 2009

  • 24 Answers

SOURCE: replace heating element for Duet Dryer GEW9200LW1

First disconnect the power to the dryer by unplugging it from the wall. Then remove the 3 screws on the lower panel of the dryer. This should expose the heating element in a metal housing on the right side of the dryer. Disconnect the 2 wires going to the heating element and slide it out of the housing. The heating element part number is 3387747.

Posted on May 25, 2010

  • 552 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel DEGX2 Dryer. Need heating element changed?

Hello,

The video below explains how to open and repair a fisher paykel dryer.

http://www.appliancerepairlesson.com/

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Posted on Mar 06, 2011

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