Question about Vivitar 2000 Flash

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I have an old Vivitar electronic flash 2000 unit for SLR cameras. It's the automatic model. I have fresh batteries in it, but the flash won't charge up. I've checked inside and all the wires and solders are intact.

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6 Suggested Answers

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  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: no 'green' light on bacl of my 'old' Vivitar 285

Then I'd say it's a reasonably sure thing that the green light is just burned out, The lights are supposed to be off at first, then red when there's a partial charge, then green when there's a full charge, then flashing between red and green when the "battery saver" kicks in. If you're seeing off, then red, then off, then flashing red, then that means everything in the charging circuit is working perfectly, there's just no green light.

Posted on Jan 29, 2008

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  • 17 Answers

SOURCE: No power for my 'old' Vivitar 285HV Flash

I've got three 285HVs and have had this problem. Obviously, make sure the batteries are good and the door and inside terminals are not corroded. The whine sound that you usually hear is the high voltage circuit. the reason it changes pitch is that the main capacitor is charging. As the charge gets greater and greater, the pitch with go up as the circuit changes the power being fed to the capacitor. If you don't hear the "whine" then it's either the HV circuit isn't working (probably not) or the capacitor has gone bad. These things are sealed but can decay internally due to their structure. Usually this is due to the dielectric components breaking down or the electrolytic goo drying up (usually what causes it).

Sometimes, you can let it sit with good batteries and the switch on to see if it will eventually start to charge the cap. Most of the time tho, this is an indication that the capacitor or the charging circuit is dead. It can be repaired but sending it off will usually be more expensive than replacing the unit.

Be sure and rate me!!

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

  • 48 Answers

SOURCE: Nikon D80. Vivitar 4600 Flash unit

That particular unit is probably not a good choice for the D80 because the trigger voltage (the electricity which flows from the flash through the camera circuits to fire the flash) is 19.5 volts, according to http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html - this could possibly damage your camera electronics.

You don't have to stick with Nikon brand Speedlights, but get a modern flash which says it is I-TTL compatible for Nikon.

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

videotransmi
  • 105 Answers

SOURCE: my vivitar 283 flash won't turn on. I checked the

Check the contacts for the battery to make sure they are clean and shiny. Then insert 4 brand new AA batteries observing the correct polarity and try again. Also check your users manual to be sure all of your setting and connection to your camera is correct.

I hope this was a help to you and good luck!

Posted on Nov 13, 2009

  • 65 Answers

SOURCE: vivitar 285 not working

You don't need a Manual.
In 285 HV there is only one Power on/off switch.
If that switch is on and batteries are new Alkaline (like duracell-no chepo )or fully charged and working rechargebles,and yet the ready light do not come the flash has defect inside.For sure.

Posted on Mar 27, 2010

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My vivitar elect. flash does operate even sfter replacing batteries not even test button


This is very sad. I can only suggest to re-examine the battery orientation and check the contacts to see if they are bent or broken.

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What model Vivitar camera? What type(s) of batteries?

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it can fixed only camera fixera company,better if you fix it according to camera company because your problem also be facced to me,i take it to a ordinary camera fixer and then my camera fully get damaged because who fixed my camera they fall acid in battery placce.

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2 Answers

Vivitar 285 not working


You don't need a Manual.
In 285 HV there is only one Power on/off switch.
If that switch is on and batteries are new Alkaline (like duracell-no chepo )or fully charged and working rechargebles,and yet the ready light do not come the flash has defect inside.For sure.

Jul 27, 2009 | Vivitar 285HV Flash

1 Answer

No power for my 'old' Vivitar 285HV Flash


I've got three 285HVs and have had this problem. Obviously, make sure the batteries are good and the door and inside terminals are not corroded. The whine sound that you usually hear is the high voltage circuit. the reason it changes pitch is that the main capacitor is charging. As the charge gets greater and greater, the pitch with go up as the circuit changes the power being fed to the capacitor. If you don't hear the "whine" then it's either the HV circuit isn't working (probably not) or the capacitor has gone bad. These things are sealed but can decay internally due to their structure. Usually this is due to the dielectric components breaking down or the electrolytic goo drying up (usually what causes it).

Sometimes, you can let it sit with good batteries and the switch on to see if it will eventually start to charge the cap. Most of the time tho, this is an indication that the capacitor or the charging circuit is dead. It can be repaired but sending it off will usually be more expensive than replacing the unit.

Be sure and rate me!!

Feb 09, 2009 | Vivitar 285HV Flash

1 Answer

Vivitar 2000 with canon xs


Trigger voltage doesn't have anything to do with the power source. Even though you're only giving it 6V (4 1.5V batteries), it ramps it up internally for the photo tube.

Old cameras used a mechanical switch to fire the flash, so the voltage didn't matter.

New cameras, like your XT, have an electronic switch and eventually will burn out, like Anonymous said. They want 6V at the hotshoe. You're giving it 56V... I know it works now, but it'll fry it eventually. You can get a hotshoe adapter that will isolate the voltage from the camera.

Dec 25, 2008 | Vivitar 2000 Flash

1 Answer

What kind of battery for an XC-3 vivitar camera?


Your Vivitar XC-3 takes two MS76 or S76 batteries. BTW, some further specs for your camera:

It is basically the same of the Cosina brand, CSR model.
  • Match-LED Camera with an optional aperture-prefered automatic exposure accessory unit (servo-motor).
  • Shutter: cloth electronic, 4s-1/1000, B.
  • Flash: X-synch hot shoe, standard X and F synch at 1/60
  • Metering: stoped-down TTL or spot metering
  • Finder: split-image rangefinder and ground glass collar.
  • Auto diaphragm
  • Instant return mirror
  • Self-timer
I hope this helps!
Regards,
CharlieJ

[Please rate this solution, if it helps you.]

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