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I have a 1991 model gmn100-4 furnace and air con power supply 115 volts 1ph60hz less than 12 amps my problem is when fan moter kicks in the air unit does not i checked and theres power from breaker box to the air unit and from the unit to the pusher switch and from the pusher switch to the control panel 7- 26- 10 it was fine that evening it wasnt was hoping you might advise me on a couple of trouble shootings ways i might go any advice would be nice because this K C heat and humidity is hard to take thank you jimmy b

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Hi Jimmy, yes, I bet it is hot with that high humidity. From what you are saying, it sounds to me like this pusher switch is the contactor at the out door unit. It has the power lines going into it, and out the other side. It will have contacts on it that you can push down, is this what you are talking about when you say pusher switch? The indoor unit is 115 volts, you are right about that, but the outdoor unit contactor/pusher switch is 230 volts. You should have a box mounted by the outdoor unit for high voltage. Most all of the disconnect boxes have 2- 30 to 35 amp fuses inside them. You may not see them, so pull the plug and the plastic cover in the box to see if you have them. If you do, you may have blown a fuse. Replace both of them. This box is powered by a breaker at your main panel also. You will have a double pole breaker and make sure its not tripped. This contactor has a 24 volt coil on the bottom of it and is energized by the thermostat which closes the contacts to send power through to start the unit. You have to have 230 volts there. Turn the stat on cooling and go out to see if the pusher/contactor switch is energized. If so and the unit is not on, you have no high voltage there to run it, so check for fuses and the main breaker. You have power to the indoor unit, but not the out door unit. Start here and do these checks. Keep me posted on this Jimmy, and get back to me if this does not start the unit or if you trip a breaker. I will be watching for you. We will get it going. If this does the trick, be sure and rate me kindly as I know you will. Keep me updated by my user name below.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor.

Posted on Aug 02, 2010

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one half of the breaker you moved is not making contact in the panel or moving the breaker caused the fan relay to be on the same 115 volt leg as the power leg. If the breaker is connected to two points in the panel and you have 115 volts on each side of the breaker (230 volts) You can move the breaker one notch higher or lower or switch wires on the breaker to correct the circuit.

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You didn't mention if they ever worked? Are you feeding 120 volts or 220 volts to the two units?

Good luck,

Marty

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My G-air unit does not work at all. It doesn't start


Try the fan switch inthe ON setting rather than the AUTO setting, if it runs, power, both low(24) and high(115 or 230) are present. if not, check breakers and fused outlet if a split system furnace, read for 24 volts at red and common on low voltage terminal board where thermostat wires go on the furnace, if no 24 volts there and poers entering furnace, transformers bad.

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With the Dometic 3106995.032 thermostat fan switch set to "auto" the fan in the overhead A/C unit comes on (when system is set to "Furnace") as the temperature control is raised but the furnace doen't kick...


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Shastalaker7
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My Codegen Switching Power Supply 350W Model 300Xi Atx2 o3 (P4) is smoking when I turn on my PC


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The green power light on the PSU is on but the machine will not power up PSU is an HP5188-2627. The machine (HP m7580uk) has been on for an extended period of time but was working fine until it was finally...


Power supply failure, or the Power On switch. (Behind the Power On button)

My money's on the power supply failure.

Why?
It's the leading case of computer failure. The power supply is the 'Heart' of a computer. (Processor is the 'Brain', Motherboard is the 'Building Block')

Computer was on for an extended length of time? Was the computer ever turned off, and the inside of the computer cleaned out on a regular basis?
(Power supply also)

Normal procedure is to unplug the computer from power, open the computer case, and use a can of compressed air for computers.

Power supply light is on?
This is what is going on.

Computer power supply's are rated in Wattage, for power.
Voltage times Amperage = Wattage

The HP 5188-2627 power supply, supplies three main voltages. It has three main voltage power rails.

1) The 3.3 Volt rail
2) The 5 Volt rail
3) The 12 Volt rail

Your power supply has a weak voltage rail.

A) ALL the lights use less than 1 Watt of power.
B) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts
C) A typical Processor uses 55 to 125 Watts.

There isn't enough power from the power supply to turn the Processor on.

Solution is to replace the power supply.
It may seem a little daunting for someone replacing a computer power supply, the first time.

After you have replaced one, it becomes easier.
Essentially you are just opening the computer case, unplugging the power cables from the power supply to the various hardware components, and removing the power supply.

To install just reverse these steps.

The power supply in your computer is a 300 Watt power supply. (Maximum wattage)

The size, and shape of the power supply, is one that is used in over 90% of personal computers.
ATX

What I would I recommend for a replacement?
Not one of the cheap quailty Hi-Pro's that HP used, that's for sure!

An OCZ StealthXStream 400 Watt is what I would recommend.
Why?

1) It will fit
2) It has a 140 Millimeter fan compared, to the 80mm fan that your old power supply has.

A larger fan means it will run quieter, due to the fact that it won't have to turn as fast, in order to put out as much air.
Will actually put out more air than that 80mm fan, and will spin slower.

3) Has two 12 Volt power rails.
One 12 Volt rail can deliver 17 Amps.
The other 12 Volt rail can deliver 14 Amps.

You can add the two 12 Volt power rail Amp's together, for 31 Amps.

Means less strain for the power supply, to keep up with the tasks.
(Your old power supply probably has an 18 Amp, 12 Volt power rail)

4) Has all the power cables you'll need.

5) Price, and reliable quality.

This is one place that carries them,

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4675269&CatId=1078

There are other places also. Not advertising for the above website, nor the power supply manufacturer.
Just my personal preference, based on experience with both.

A computer only uses the power it needs, and NO more.
If you install a 1000 Watt power supply in your computer, and the computer only needs 100 Watts, it only uses 100 Watts.

(Surfing the internet typically uses 100 Watts of power. Like a 100 Watt light bulb)

This may help guide you in replacing the power supply,

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/362

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2 Answers

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If you look at control box at roof unit, they usually use a separate set of wires for furnace. See what colors they are attached to at harness to thermostat. Some just follow other harness, and come out at thermostat. (bypass control box) Once you've determined which 2 they are, join them together & see if furnace starts, as it should. If it does, thermostat is faulty. If not, pull outside cover off & check voltages at furnace. I'm guessing by furnace model that your unit is approx 30 ft , but if it's a park model, you may have 24 volt system on furnace or 12 volt. Another way of confirming is to go to back of furnace where air intake grille is inside your unit, and locate 2 blue wires going to furnace & remove whatever wires are attached to them & connect them together. Furnace should start up.

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