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Whirlpool range does not heat up

I have a whirlpool self cleaning cooking range (electric) Model No - RF 365PXMT 0
Over the weekend the heating coil and the oven stopped working entirely. The control panel / display and the surface indicator lights seem to work right. The timer, the clock etc are all working properly.
I can see 120 volts between L1 & Nuetral and L2 and nuetral at the inlet all the way to the control knob and the coil, but the coil is not heating up. All the coil stopped working simultaneously, so I am sure it is not an issue with the coil.
I am getting 0 volts across L1 & L2. Wasn't sure if that is supposed to be 240 volts. The only error message I can see on the control panel is F0 E0 and the suggested remedy is reset/change control panel...not sure if that will fix the problem.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

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SOURCE: I have a whirlpool gold electric range,accubake

Hi,
I have look up your unit, I found the thermostat located inside the back panel the would only take out the function to your elements in your oven.
High limit thermostat
This link shows its location and price of the part. Now for you display issue, before continuing, push and hold the clock button on the panel until you hear a beep, if the unit is set to Sabbath mode this will clear that. If not I will continue, by the way missing a version number to model number, like a number (0 or 02). Have you have a power outage recently? I am not locating any line fuses the would take the display out. If the clock doesn't reset then I would think about checking warranty or can your dealer to inquire on your warranty.
Control Unit
Good Luck and I hope this helps.

Posted on Aug 17, 2011

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I have a whirlpool range rf263lxtq the oven stays consent on what is wrong with it


Oven clicks as if it is relighting almost constantly.

· Old electric range ovens use a coil heating element called a resistive coil.
This is nothing more than an electrical wire encased in a sheath. They have flat black coils over rounded burner drip bowls that catch your drips and spills.
· The newer glass-ceramic cook top style element produces heat that radiates through the glass top to the cookware above.
· Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop.
· Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system. GAS OVENS 1)The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).

2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).

3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.

There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.
ELECTRIC OVENS:

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

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If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right,then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

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I have read the codes you are looking for,so I'm sending them to you and i hope this will help.
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