Question about Goodman Heating & Cooling
Fan go on and off after 5 minutes of running
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
im not sure what tstat you have? if you still have your tstat book it well tell you how to set it up. may be it was not programed when installed. i hope that helps
Posted on Apr 12, 2010
Both companies can be right at the same time and I will explain this. You have a 3 ton system, going by the model number you have given. For every 1 ton of air, you get an average of 400 cfm. That is 1200 cfm for your system. You need an average of 1 cfm per square foot, that's the basic way to calculate a residential system. So, if your house is 2100 sq ft, you need at least 2100 cfms, which is a 5 ton unit. That is were the company that says it's to small gets there diagnosis, on the other hand, with a unit that is to small, it can still operate the way it's supposed to and the company that says it's fine is probably going off of the way the unit is ''technically'' working. Things to consider though before you come to an conclusion, when you say that your house is 2100 sq ft, the unit only needs to be based on square footage of "living space". The best way to do this is to go to each room where there is a supply register and get the sq ft of each room, it might be smaller than 2100 sq ft. A lot of people, when selling a home, will include the garage and other "non living" spaces in the square footage. Other things to consider are the heat loads of each room, meaning how many windows, doors, etc. Depending on the heat loads, the placement of the registers, and your duct work, you can have the right sized system and still not get the performance it's meant to have. The problem still remains that your not happy with the system's performance and that's the important thing, unfortunately, it might be a lot bigger of a problem than you thought. Hope this helps and good luck!
Posted on Jul 17, 2010
Hi, I am assuming you are talking about the indoor coil icing up when you are in cooling. The reason I am asking this as this appears to be a heat-pump and they will ice up in the winter at the outdoor unit. I will go with the indoor coil. If the indoor fan is blowing up to speed and you have cleaned the indoor coil but still have this ice forming, it could very well be that you are low on freon. This will also cause the suction line, the large copper line outdoors to ice and on into the indoor coil. This will happen if you have developed a leak some where. Also, make sure you have good strong return air coming back through the air filter, because if you have problems with the duct work like holes from varments, or you have had any repairman around the duct work, sometimes they will flatten it causing no air flow and you will have ice. My bet is you are low on gas. Shut the unit off to make sure it has no ice on the coil, and go to the outdoor unit. Have someone turn it to cooling and put your hand above the fan on the condenser coil. The air should start to get warm and then hot if the freon level is ok. This also depends on the outdoor temperatures. The hotter it is outdoors, the hotter the air will be. If it is rather cool, around lets say 75*F, and this copper suction line is starting to form ice, the problem is it is low on freon. In this case, this is something you will need to call a tech out to charge the unit. You have to be certified and be able to buy the right freon which is only available to a/c and refrigeration tech's. If this is a heat -pump, and it is winter where you are and the outdoor coil is icing up, let me know and I can go through the steps to check this out. I do believe this is a summer problem where you may be, but you never know unless you ask. Please don't forget to rate me on this post as I am sure you will be kind. I wish I could save you a tech call, but if its low and you have cleaned the indoor coils, and filter is clean, then this is the problem.
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor
Posted on Sep 26, 2010
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