Question about Maytag MSD2758G Side by Side Refrigerator

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Compressor cycles on overload checked run cap it reads 15.7 ufs rated 15 .installed new overload and relay compressor still cyc;es. Installed a 3 and 1 and compressor ran. can I install the 3n1 permently also can you use a 15/370 run cap in place of the cap that is there.Unit is a Maytag Mod # MSD2732GRW. I ohmed the compressor 3.1 4.6 7.8 Windings megged okay. I Checked voltage at start winding no voltage or current noted

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The way I check compressor problems is : If it kicks off on the overload , remove the overload / relay . Check all 3 terminals with the meter set on beep . Also , check each terminal to any part of the copper compressor lines . A beep there would indicate a shorted compressor . I would then replace the overload / relay ( wiring correctly with the capacitor ) and connect an amp meter to the overload wire . Plug in the refrig and check the compressor run amps . New compressors usually run 0.7 amps . If the compressor runs anywhere above 2.5 amps , then a lot of wear is on it and not much longer life . I never use a 3 in 1 due to these are only a partial fix and will not last long . Actually , If a refrig comes into the shop , these are jerked off the compressor and thrown away . I consider 3 in 1 absolute junk and frown on any technician using them . Refrigerators come to our shop ( we pick up from lowes , home depot trade ins ) and I've thrown many away , which also means they cannot be permanently used .

Posted on Aug 02, 2010

  • Mike Smith
    Mike Smith Aug 02, 2010

    I have also never found a bad capacitor on a Maytag or Whirlpool refrig . Not saying it cannot happen , just that I have never found a bad capacitor on them .



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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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I have an Oster Compact Refrigerator Model OR3005L3B that stoped working while I was away on a two week business trip. The interior is warm with no fans running. The compressor is very warm/almost hot to...

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
The compressor is attempting to start but not rotating. The click you hearing is the compressor thermal overload cycling. The start cycle shoud repeat about every 4 minutes initiating a start cycle for 15 to 40 seconds and then repeat again in approximately 4 - 6 minutes.
When a compressor will not start there can be many reasons:
1. The PTC start relay has failed
2. The run capcitor has failed
3. The compressor rotor is locked from an internal failure.
4. Wiring at the compressor connection has been hot and does not provide enough startig current.

As of Jan 2009 oster is no longer able to support their mini-frigde units as the manufacturer filed bankruptcy. They direct you to for parts. I check the apwagner site and the do not list any oster models.

Apwagner contacts found on this link:

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I will say that you can hand carry the PTC relay, overload and capacitor to most any appliace parts sourc and find a replacement.

I would do a resistance check of the the compressor terminals to the case of the compressor looking for shorts to the body of the compressor (none allowed)
I would then replace the PTC Relay and {run capacitor if used} If it still did not start then the compressor is locked. A new compressor, coolant, service call and labor would be at least 2 times what the unit cost new. ( What stinks about buying a new PTC relay and capacitor and then finding out the compressor is locked up; means your out the cost of the parts just to troubleshoot. The troubleshooting process forces us to change the PTC relay capacitor and often the Kixon Thermal overload protector just to end up with the compressor is locked diagnosis. There is no other way sadly.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Aug 22, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I replaced the relay overload on my kitchenaid refrigerator but the compressor still wont come on woke up in the morning fridge was warm i checked it compressor was not on it was very hot i took off the...

There are some checks that you should perform.
First remove the PTC relay and thermal overload.
Next do a resistance test of the 3 compressor terminals that are labeled as follows
C = Common
R = Run
S = Start

Read Each of the 3 terminals to the case of the compressor. NO grounds are allowed. Then read C to R and C to S. You must read resistance.
Last test is an amperage test with the PTC / Overload connected. You look on the compressor LABEL for the letters LRA and note that number that will be somewhere between 13.8 and 21.3 amps. You then measure the amperage on the power cord... or near the compressor. If the number of amps read is equal to or greater than the LRA (Locked Rotor Amperage) then the compressor rotor is infact locked and the compressor will have to be replaced. If it is trying to start and your sure the rotor is turning but it is not running at full speed you may have a bad run capacitor. Since you installed the 3 n 1 device I doubt you have a capacitor problem.

Thanks for chosing FixYa,

Jun 22, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Hello bill willliams here i have a client witjh a reach in cooler the compessor in kickingf off an on every 3 to 4 sec off and on off an on what could be the problem

Most likely the PTC relay and run capacitor. However there is a value on the side of the compressor label that is LRA (locked rotor amperage) followed by and amp value between 14.7 amps and 21.9 amps for a 1/3 hp compressor. If the unit is drawing that LRA amperage and the compressor is not starting then the compressor is bad.

As a tech before making that change the compressor decision I wil ALWAYS install a new PTC relay / Klixon thermal-overload AND a run capacitor. IF after changing those 3 components the compressor is still drawing LRA amperage the compressor has to be changed.

With the every 3 - 4 seconds cycling.. and the thermal overload is not kicking off for around 4 to 5 minutes I really would suspect both the run capacitor and the PTC relay

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Jun 15, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Unit Is running but compressor cycles and than appears to go into thermal overload! Unit will not come back on compressor is very hot!!

Sorry to read about your problem. you can have many different problems.
1. Bad temp control
2. Failing compressor
3. Defective start cap
4. Defective overload protector
5. Defective control board

But in your case, sounds like general compressor failure

I suggest you call a service company.

I have tried to help you. Please help me, by Vote/Rate my response. Thanks.

If you live in the Denver area, I can help you.

Dec 22, 2010 | McCall P-10-12 Stainless Steel

2 Answers

Installed a 3 in 1 on a maytag refrigarator? Will it burn the compressor up?

Hi, Are you saying you wired in a dual run capacitor on your compressor to start it? Or, a hard start relay capacitor combination? A dual cap has 3 terminals on it. Marked Herm, Fan, and C for common. If the voltage is not correct, or the correct Uf's, yes it could burn the compressor out. If you are having a problem with a tight compressor, you need to purchase a hard start capacitor of the right voltage which is 370V by the right H.P.1/4 to 1horse what ever your compressor is.They are made to fit several sizes of compressors. Get the information from the data plate on the compressor and pick up the right hard start for it. This is important if you want the compressor to last.

Jan 04, 2010 | Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

Frigidaire PLHS268ZCB1 freezer not freezing, periodic humming sound, Cold air instead of warm coming from vent underneath

Periodic humming is the control relay closing to start the compressor, only the compressor is not able to start. There is a lot of (inrush) current during this event so, after a few seconds, an overload cuts the power to the compressor and the humming goes away. About 30-60 seconds later, the relay tries again, the compressor hums but doesn't start, overload cuts power, rinse and repeat. If you touch the compressor during this cycling, it should be very hot. It's possible that the starter relay is bad. If you look at the compressor, there is a black box that plugs into the compressor on one end and has conductors connected to the other end. This is the relay / overload and can easily be replaced. There's also a capacitor plugged into that relay/overload. Be sure to discharge it or it can give you a shock. The capacitor on your model is a running cap, not a starting cap. Unfortunately, the most likely cause for the humming is your compressor starting to fail. This model is known for an unusually high compressor failure rate. You can replace the relay / overload with a "hard start" relay that is compatible with the compressor. This "should" extend the useful life of the compressor a bit but it will still eventually fail. The compressor may also be permanently damaged by the cycling so even the hard start may not solve your problem. It's a cheap part, however, and worth a try. Is it worth replacing a compressor? It's a sealed system and needs a professional with the right tools to perform the work. Usually it's between $400-$700. A comparable but brand new fridge is ~$1000. You'll have to weigh the cost. It's very likely that a $500 repair will get you several more years out of your existing fridge. Some would argue that for a few hundred extra dollars, however, it's worth the money to get a new one that's more efficient and under warranty.

Feb 20, 2009 | Frigidaire PLHS269ZC Side by Side...

2 Answers

Maytag MZD2766GEW No Cooling

hi thanks for the question . i would replace the relay and the cap then your sure your good to go. thanks te appliance doc rate me please

Oct 01, 2008 | Maytag MZD2766GES Side by Side...

1 Answer

Whirlpool gold refrigerator compressor clicks on for about 5 seconds then back off. The fan next to it was blocked when I opened the access panel. Unblocked it and it 3 hours ago and still has the the...

It's either the compressor start relay/ overload, or the compressor itself. If the fan wasn't running, the compressor would have got very hot and potentially damaged it. Sometimes you can tell if it's just the relay by taking it off and shaking it. If you can hear peices rattling around, it's a bad relay. If not you'll need to check the compressor. When you take the relay off, you'll see 3 pins. Use an ohm meter to make 3 readings. One will check the start winding, one the run winding and the third will check both. All 3 should be between 3 and 13 ohms. If any read infinite you've got a bad compressor. Then check each of the 3 pins to ground. If you read anything other than infinite you've got a bad compressor. Even if the readings are ok, you could still have a locked up compressor. You'll have to put on a new relay and if it still won't run you'll need a new compressor.

Jul 20, 2008 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

I recently had a new outdoor unit installed on my central heat and air conditioning sytem. I have had the installer out 3 times and the system still does not operate correctly. Sometimes when it cycles...

It sounds like the compressor needs starting components installed on it. All a/c units have a run capacitor for the compressor and another one for the condenser fan motor. These motors use these capacitors all the time when the motor is running. However, in some cases, this capacitor isn't enough to get the compressor spinning initially. Starting components consist of two parts, a start capacitor and a potential relay. The starting components are wired in in series with the compressor run capacitor. When the compressor turns on, the start capacitor gives the compressor an extra "kick in the pants" to get it going, then as soon as the compressor is spinning, the potential relay disconnects the start capacitor from the circuit for the duration of the run time and resets when the compressor turns off. Most likely, your indoor unit has a thermal expansion valve (commonly known in the trade as a TXV). This valve maintains a somewhat substantial differential between the high side and low side of the compressor after the system turns off which can be difficult for the compressor to overcome without help. Right now the compressor is trying to come on, can't overcome the pressure, and is tripping it's internal overload to protect itself. Eventually, as the overload repeatedly trips and resets over and over, the compressor will finally get around to a position where it will start once in a while. I am not a gambling man and I would bet you money that this will solve your problem. If you would be so kind as to rate my solution "Fix-Ya".

Jul 03, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Compressor short cycling

If the compressor is run off of a relay then you could install a delay timer to prevent short cycling.

Jun 04, 2008 | Dometic Heating & Cooling

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