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Their is a flat head screw on the callipar. Unscrew it first. Inside of the flathead screw is an allen wrench nut. Break the allen wrench nut loose. Now unscrew the two bolts that hold the calipar in place. Remove them completely. Slide the calipar off from the disc. Finishing unscrewing the allen head nut that we talked about earlier. Pull it all the way out. Remove the shoes unless they fall out.. Easy to take out.. Blow off the calipar. Replace the shoes. Now put that Allen head screw back in that holds the shoes in place. No need to tighten it yet. Just snug. Spread the shoes apart by using a screwdriver being careful not to damage the pads. Large screwdriver. Slide the calipars over the disc and now put some locktight onto those two mounting bolts for the calipars. Tighten to about 40 lbs. Now tighten the allen set screw that holds the shoes in place. Replace the flattip screw that covers the allen head. Use a impact driver to tighten by hitting it once. Pull on break handle about 4 times to set the shoes to the disc. Do this before you start your bike.. You have brakes.. It was easy.. Way to go!!!
Make your own tool using the old pads or 2 pieces of 10mm flat bar.
Drill a hole in one of them(Drilling old pads is difficult - Theyre
extremely hard). Flatbar is easier to drill. Weld a nut over the hole
so that a bolt(should be about 80mm 2-3 inches) screwed into the nut
will pass through the hole. Use as per diagram. Unscrewing the bolt will
pry the caliper open. (Be sure to open the brake fluid reservoir.)
Making this will take you 10 minutes and cost next to nothing.
Dont go forcing the calipers with a screwdriver, wrenches, crowbars or
other manner of strongarm tactics. :-p. It will damage the piston
and/the caliper guide pins
Super pumps are very easy. If it is a northstar it is more difficult. Super pump. You will need 1 motor, 1 pump seal, 1 diffuser gasket, 1 housing gasket. turn off breaker, disconnect wires -noting whether it is 110 or 220 volts- , unscrew four bolts on back of pump housing (shaft side of motor), pull out motor with rear housing and diffuser (sometimes diffuser sticks inside), on wire side of motor hold shaft with wrench (flathead in some cases, but it is harder), unscrew impeller counter clockwise (like normal screw - you will nee a big pair of channel locks or a strap wrench), there are two pieces of the back housing and once the impailer is off you can remove the half that is closest to the end of the shaft to reveal four more screws, unscrew those four screws. screw back part of rear housing onto new motor. Install new pump seal to front part of rear housing and impeller, slide on front part of rear housing and then screw on impeller while holding shaft on wire side with wrench (only hand tight), replace housing gasket, replace diffuser gasket, slide into front housing and screw in four bolts. If electrical was 110 you will need to move the jumper on the wire end..if it was 220 then just hook kup wires...doesnt matter which is which as long as green or bare goes to the ground screw.
So this is what it takes to replace rear brake rotors on a 2003 Mercedes E320;
1) open the bonnet (hood) of the car and loosen/remove the cap off of the brake fluid resevior.
2) remove outer spring clamp from brake assembly (it clips in to the iner edge of the holes of the caliper).
3)using a 7 MM allen wrench, remove the brake caliper.
4) using 18 MM box wrench, remove the caliper housing assembly off of the wheel hub.
5) using a star wrench, unscrew the rotor locking screw from the rotor
6) squirt some liquid wrench on the rotor hub and knock the rotor with a hammer to work the liquid wrench in.
7) using the same hammer, knock the rotor off the hub.
8) using a metal file, lightly file old residue off of the hub and place the new rotor on the hub.
9) set the hub by screwing in the lug nuts and then screw in the hub locking screw using the star wrench, then remove the lug nuts.
10) reinstall the caliper housing assembly onto the wheel hub using the 18 MM box wrench.
11) push back the brake claiper piston to its home position and install the inner brake pad (the one with the snap clips)
12) insert the outer brake pad in the claper housing assembly.
13) slide on the caliper housing with the inner brake pad in place (over the outer brake pad) and screw in the caliper screw rods using the 7 MM allen wrench
14) on the right wheel brakes, DO NOT FORGET to slide in the brake sensor (the one with the black connector) and connect it to the connector on the caliper housing.
15) be sure to reinsert the spring clamp onto the outer brake assembly to set the assembly squarely onto the wheel (there should be no wiggle in the brake assembly after the spring clamps are installed).
16) finally mount the wheels.
17) you can bleed the brakes at this point to release any trapped air (which is unlikely) but be sure to pump the brakes after starting the car BUT BEFORE MOVING IT to re-preassurize the brake system before driving the car.
17) ONE WEEK LATER - recheck brake assembly to ensure all is okay and brake fluid.
This proposed solution is for a 2003 Mercedes Benz E320 and NOT a 2005 model as stated by the limited option selection provided by FIXYA.com when initially describing the problem.
Like many other watches, the Relic Wet's battery can't be changed by the owner. It requires a Jeweler's wrench. Said wrench has prongs that fit into the 6 indentations on the back of the watch. The wrench is than used to unscrew the back plate, exposing the battery. Any reputable jewelry store will have one.