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I have a fan piece left over from reassembly. the fan is mounted on a bent 90 degree piece of metal that is perforated and probably goes on the chassis somewhere. I am stumped. Here is the piece

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HI Joe, The piece you are referring to slides into the top of the chassis. if you are sitting in back of the television and the chassis is removed, the piece with the fan slides in from the top. The perforated piece slides in between the left support bracket and signal board. The fan will cover the top of the signal board, DM module and Fmt board. Once it is in place you will then plug in the usb and firewire cable at the top of the chassis. The connector for that fan is connected to the wire harness that is coming from the chassis near the dvi connection. Does this help?

Posted on Aug 11, 2010


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The switch should be mounted under the dash up around the steering column where it can contact the brake pedal arm. When not applying the brakes the switch has a piston-like piece that rides against the steel arm going up from the brake pedal. In this depressed position the brake lights are off. When you press the brake pedal the piston extends and the brake lights come on.

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I would hear it when going over speed-bumps or hitting potholes, anything that...

I would hear it when going over speed-bumps or hitting potholes, anything that made the bed move towards or away from the frame. I figured a leaf spring had lost its insulator and was squeaking, no big deal. Just use some J.B Weld and a plastic disk to break the metal-to-metal contact. I would eventually have to buy a kit that would do the job better, but a plastic disk would work for a few days - - until I got paid, anyway.
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I bought a 4.5" Black and Decker grinder/sander and set about to get the remaining shock housing off of the truck. Had to grind out three bolts and punch them out of the frame. Then I used the grinder to cut up several pieces of a twin-sized bed frame. Any good, thick metal will work. There was not much left to the original shock mount after I had sanded away the rust. I also used the grinder to get rid of any thin, flexible, sub-par metal remaining on the mount.
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The twin-sized bedframe was very difficult to bend, what we did was grind the corner off, so there were two individual flat pieces. We left these individual strips very long in length, often three or four foot long. Insert a small amount of it into the vice and pull down on the rest of it like a handle. This proved to be the quickest and easiest way to put the right bend to the metal. Of course we perfected the bends with a small ball-peen hammer and larger three pound mallet.
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Total project cost: $35 grinder (which I needed anyway), $10 sanding pads/wire brush, and a small tube of welding rods for about $20( and I still have about half). All - in - all, a good decision to re-fabricate instead of buying another mount. Now I have additional tools and supplies for future projects.

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1 Answer

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