- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
if you can hear the fun noise, you need to check major circuit, should be bad capacitor. if no noise at all, replace the fun.
actually they have very good customer service. just contact by email or phone, tell them what's happened, they should give you a RMA number, put the tank cap and cut small piece of power cable, send to them, you will receive a brand new humidifier within couple weeks. even your machine slightly out of warranty.
I have got the same problem with my u7142 unit. This most probably means that the hygrostat inside is either broken or it has been heavily covered with the "white dust" in case the demineralization cartridge has not been changed for a long while. To resolve it you have two options: either clean the humidity sensor or replace it. The sensor is at the bottom of the front panel, so you need to disassemble the front panel only, no need to open the whole unit (note that there are 2 screws at the bottom holding the front panel also). You need to get the sensor out from the printed circuit to open the cover and clean the surface of the sensor with something (blowing air does not help; you need physically touch the surface with something). If it does not help then you can go for the second option to replace the sensor, the type used in the unit is SYH-1. It is not a pricy element so you may go straight to the replacement if you find a shop nearby to buy it. I have simply replaced the sensor and now the unit is showing the proper humidity value and adjusting the steam automatically again.
how long the filter will last depends on your water .. if your water has a high mineral content then that is left behind as the water evaporates from the filter/wick ... the yellow brown sounds like calcium deposits .. calcium is often added to water to give it a good taste .. that may be beneficial for you but will build up on the filter .. it doesn't hurt much until it starts to clog the voids in the filter material .. as long as air gets thru then the deposits will be ok .. normally the filter should last about 3 months .. if you use distilled water (with no calcium added) then much longer .. if you have hard water then less .. there is a tablet that you can add to the water to reduce the calcium buildup .. the manufacturer of your humidifier will likely recommend that .. thats often available from hardware stores also ..
so your choices are: 1. don't worry about it until the filter becomes clogged 2. use the anti calcium tablet or something like ProTec PC-1 Humidifier Tank Cleaning Cartridge 3. use distilled water for really long filter life 4. plan on replacing the filter every 3 months
other types of humidifiers have other problems .. the hot water type gets calcium deposits on the heating element requiring cleaning a couple times a year, usually with vinegar or a calcium solvent .. that takes awhile..
the Ultrasonic type doesn't generally have problems with internal deposits because it blows moist air out including the calcium .. that produces a fine dust on surfaces in your house ..
of those types the filter system like yours is easier to maintain than the hot water type and doesn't leave dust behind like the ultrasonic all work better and longer if the water is pure .. distilled water doesn't cost much but you have to be careful .. read the small print .. some of it will say "calcium added" .. you don't want that .. if you use only distilled water then the filter should last the whole year ..
I took my humidifier apart to see what was wrong with it and saw the carbon electrodes were caked with salt deposits. While cleaning them off, one of the electrodes broke about halfway down. I noticed the electrodes were hollow - about a 3/16" diameter hole down the middle. I found a small diameter screw from a toggle bolt assemble, cut the head of the screw off, cut the remaining threaded piece to about an inch long and used it to splice together the broken carbon electrode. I reasoned that the steel piece is only touching the carbon pieces, and not the wire leads, it should be ok/safe resistance-wise. I put everything back together again, and voila, the unit worked!
This happened with my humidifier as well. When the mineral deposits build up to the point where the drum binds, and is difficult to turn, the gears on the motor will strip. The clicking you hear are the ends of the stripped teeth of the motor gear rubbing up against the mating gears. Suggest you pull the motor - just remove the wire nuts from the control unit (replace wire nut over the exposed 24 Volt wire on each as you do this), then loosen and remove the nuts on the inside of the unit holding the motor. A number of manufacturers offer 'clock motors' than have a 1 rpm speed, and flat slot to receive the drum spindle. I used a Loeb motor which is commonly available in hardware stores, and had to insert a couple of small washers as standoffs, so the coupler was the right distance from the drum spindle. Reattach the controller wires, and you're done.
Valves do go bad, but I had the same issue and it was the inlet orifice that was plugged. To fix: Turn off the water supply. Disconnect the water inlet line to the solenoid. The water inlet line connect to ~ 1" long piece that goes into the solenoid. Unscrew the water inlet piece and remove it from the solenoid. Check it for water flow - water should slowly drip out the small orifice at the soleniod side. There is a pin-hole sized orifice on the solenoid side and it doesn't take much to plug it. There is also a narrow cone-shaped filter inside the inlet piece. You can use tweezers to remove the filter and & use a safety pin or sewing needle to clear the orifice. Check the filter, clean it if necessary, and reinstall the filter. Now check for water flow thru the part before reinstalling. Reconnect the water inlet line and turn on the water supply. Turn your humidistat to trigger the humidifier. You should see water flowing through the drain tube.
I had the same problem with my Holmes HM5601 humidifer unit - right out of the box. I almost returned the unit to the store, but was able to figure-out the problem. Not enough water had been filling the heating section (where that black knob-like protrusion is) and the lack of enough water had caused the unit to shut-off soon after plugging it in. The problem is in valve at the bottom of the water tank! The valve is a factory defect. It needs to open more when you sit the water tank onto the base so water fills the reservoir. I had solved the problem by going to the hardware store and purchasing some small, rubber pads or feet. These rubber pads are the type used to place under things where you want to protect a table-top from being scratched or you want the item not to slide too easily on a table-top. These rubber feet or pads have an adhesive on the bottom of them. Find the size that matches the diameter of the valve stem on the bottom of the water tank. Once installed, the valve should open and close with your finger without the rubber pad interferring with the operation of the valve. The pad, if installed properly, makes contact with the water reservoir base when you placed the water tank down onto that base. The valve open a bit more allowing water to pass-thru and fill the water reservoir. Water fills the heating section as needed and the unit runs perfectly after! The round rubber pad I had used was about an 1/8 inch thick and 1/2 inch in diameter.
Check the filters and the fan blade it may have come loose. Do you still hear the motor running? Get me the model number on the unit. Sorry it took so long to get back to you I have been sick the past few months.
The part of the machine that draws water up from the bottom, as well as the bottom tray, need to be cleaned from time to time, or it cannot accept water and will indicate the tank is empty. After removing the tank, unlock the top from the bottom by moving the small lever in the area the tank sits, then pull the entire top section off of the bottom tray. Dump the old water out, then put a solution of vinegar and water in the accepting section of the tray. Replace the top and let that set for a few hours to remove buildup. You may need to use a silicone scraper or something if there is significant buildup. Pour out the vinegar solution and rinse all of those sections off with clean water. Replace the top, lock the bar, and return the tank. Your problem should be fixed.