Dometic RM2807 does not cool completely on gas(50 degrees) but

It doesn't sound like you have AC going to the Refrigerator. Is that possible? If you do, then check the fuses located in the rear of the fridge on the electronic board. I hope this helps. ArctiCold Refrigeration We keep it cold

Hi,

If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

• Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”



• Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.

Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

• The compressor



• The Thermostat



• The overload, relay, or capacitor



• The defrost timer



• The condenser fan motor

Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking same part needs replaced.The water valve at the bottom rear of fridge
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Usually from the Bottom of the refrigerator you should have minimum of 43f or colder than ambient. Should work very close to same on both gas and 110, on Dc it may not cool as good. From your description you may have an issue with ventilation. Cold air needs to flow in through the lower vent and out through the upper, if it cant, cooling efficiency is lost. Adding a fan kit can help on hot days. On gas you may have particles that fell down in the burner. Just take the cover off, take the burner screw out and blow down into burner to clean out. compressor or canned air works fine. If cleaning the burner doesn't improve it enough on gas to match electric you have to make sure your regulator on your rv has enough pressure... the fridges require 11 inches of water column.

Here's some info regarding the check issue you're experiencing:

Problem. Unit controls go to "check"
There is a common problem with, Dometic RM2807 or RM2811 and most later model Dometics with upper controls. The refrigerator's "check light" comes on or the refrigerator just shuts down seemingly for no reason. Another common problem occurs while on 120v. The refrigerator might switch to gas or just shut down even while you have a good 120v supply.

Answer. Dometic RV refrigerators with the push button upper control boards have a problem with the main power boards. The power board components are encased in yellow epoxy, reducing heat transfer. This tends to cause them to run too hot which in turn can often cause the power board to fail completely or cause problems such as listed above. We have found the only effective repair is to replace the power board. We do not use the Dometic replacement as they too can fail. The Dometic replacement also requires you to rewire the board and gas valve. The only board we recommend is the P-711. The P-711 not only will fix these problems but does not require the rewiring. It uses all the standard wiring. See Power Boards

Hope you find this helpful and best regards!

Check the 110 volt wire for flaws. Take a volt meter and check the recep that the fridge plugs into for power, should be 110 volts or so. +/- 10%. If you have power at the recep problem is in the fridge chord or circuit board fuse or circuit board. Also check the 110 volt breaker in the coach at the service panel.

Yes the clearances on gas absorption frig is critical. Not to say there is not another problem. Is the thermister attached to the frig fins?

Check out this site www.rvcoolingunit.net