- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
check to see if the key in the axle is in place or if you put it in gear the axle turns in the wheel . is the pulley in place and not loose. the belt is good you said. but the pulley may be stripped. (axle key, belt, pulleys, or belt off of pulley)
It sounds like the drive belt has slipped off a pulley. With fuel turned off, tilt the mower to one side- so the fuel cap is at the highest point of the tank, and cannot leak fuel out the breather hole. One belt will drive from the engine and the other end goes around an idler pulley. The other belt will drive from the axle to an idler pulley and will be slightly loose. This is the one that may have slipped from its position and not be contacting one or more pulleys when tightened. There should be a pair of pulleys, each being one side of the drive belt. Pressing the forward control should move one pulley onto the drive belt and simultaneously tighten the axle belt. Pressing the reverse control should engage the other pulley(on the opposite side of the belt) and also tighten the axle belt. This loose belt may have been bumped off one or more pulleys in the collision, and be sitting between the pulley and the guide/guard. With the ENGINE OFF, and the forward/reverse selector in neutral you should be able to force the loose belt back over the pulley.
Whether the forward/reverse mechanism drives the engine or axle pulley, the principle will be the same.
Drive belt broken or slipped of pulleys, hydrostatic drive filter(s) plugged. Should be one or those, Roger. Follow the drivebelt with your hand (disconnect battery to be safe) and see if it hasn't slipped off the engine drive pulley, idler pulleys, or axle pulley. If you tractor is hydrostat, may be time to replace filter.
To install the drive
belt you will have to remove the drive belt first. Follow the procedure:
--- Park the tractor
on a level surface. Set the parking brake and remove the key from the ignition.
Study the belt replacement guide decal located underneath the left foot board
for proper belt routing instructions. Remove the mowing deck by first moving the attachment clutch lever
to the disengaged position (toward you). Move the attachment lift lever all the
way forward to lower themowerhousing
to its down position. Crawl beneath the tractor and roll the drive belt off engine
pulley (it hangs directly beneath the engine). Remove small retainer clip that
holds the clutch spring to the pulley bolt located at the center of the mowing
deck. Remove the large retainer springs (two of them), then slide the belt
collar away from the mower housing and off the housing bracket. Disconnect the anti-sway bar rods from the chassis brackets by
removing the retaining cotter pins. Disconnect front links from the mower deck
by removing retaining cotter pins. Disconnect the suspension arms from the rear
mower deck brackets by removing the two cotter pins. Move the attachment lift lever all the way to the forward position
to raise the mower suspension arms to the full up position. Slide the mower
deck out from beneath the tractor. Crawl beneath the tractor and roll the drive belt off of the
stationary idler pulley and the clutching idler pulley. They are both located
immediately adjacent to the engine pulley. Be sure the belt is already away
from the engine pulley, as well. Push the drive belt slack toward the rear of tractor. Remove the
drive belt from the Trans axle pulley by taking it over the trans axle pulley
while compressing the movable belt keepers surrounding it. Remove the old belt
from the tractor by pushing it clear of the center span keeper (located beneath
the Trans axle pulley). Install a new drive belt by following the reverse of the
instructions for removal. Test the tractor and mower for normal operation. Thanks. Keep updated for
any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.
do you have the complete model number from the data tag on the mower frame? there are two typical systems for these machines, both require the belt to be tight and not slipping at the crank shaft, and the pulley on the trans-axle to not be slipping on its shaft, the older style trans axle uses a belt tensioner system to tighten the belt and turn the pulley, i.e. if the pulley turns then the axle should too. this can be checked by hand with the axle and belt removed. the second system is a clutch style axle that has a constantly tight belt and uses a small cable controlled lever on the transmission housing to engage a drive clutch inside the transaxle, if moving the lever forward doesn't cause the axle to turn as the pulley and shaft are turning the clutch mechanism is usually toast. with both of these systems one should also note whether the axle is turning inside the wheels when they are on the ground, the over running clutch sprags inside the drive gears could be stuck causing the wheels to turn without resistance applied, but stall when in contact with the ground.
while inspecting the trans axle note any wobble or free play in the axles or input shaft, this will indicate a worn case or bearing, resulting in a slipping gear in the trans axle.
This part number showed these results when i searched it on this site.
In stock: Shipping options
If you place your order today, your part(s) will arrive by:
Shipping methodEstimated arrival date
Friday, October 09, 2009
Wednesday, October 07, 2009
Monday, October 05, 2009
You'll be able to choose a shipping method during checkout.