Water heater keeps running

It almost sounds as if someone is hooked into your electrical system check for outside cables or extensions cords going into a window or even at the fuse box

It sounds like an internal thermostat failed. I would highly recommend getting a factory qualified repair service to resolve the problem for you.

Did you clean sediment out of tank when replacing elements?
Did you replace thermostats? Thermostats go bad, or get out of calibration.
Copy following link for tank-type electric water heater troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Test elements.
Sounds like lower element is burned out.
Clean sediment out of tank. Check for water leak running hot water out of tank by putting ear against pipe.
Replace both thermostats.

Electric water heater will last 20+ years, IF ...
Electric water heater is totally unique because it can last forever with part replacement using parts from hardware store, as long as tank does not rust because of depleted anode rod, and pressure is kept below 80psi.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-maintain-water-heater.html
Annual water heater maintenance will pay you $10 a month, tax free money in pocket, by avoiding tank replacement.


If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

There are a lot of other things that eat electricity. Like space heater and using ovens for heat. Heat pump.Central heat fan running all the time. House lights left on. Outside flood lights. Clothes washer using HOT water. Look around real good. It all adds up. Also the power co. may be charging more for "fuel" costs surcharges. Here in GA I'm paying a bit more now to pay for a nuclear power plant.

Your 150 amp service is undersized, and/or possibly your home shares the power company transformer with another home.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Tankless-electric-water-heater.html

Do a main breaker stress test:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html#stress

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

ECO reset button trips when upper thermostat senses heat over 150 degrees F.
This can be caused by bad thermostat, or element shorted to ground, or loose wire.
Also can be caused if factory-supplied insulation and cover are removed from tank, and thermostat exposed to cool temperatures.

1) Read about Stacking to see if this is causing occasional problem.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Stacking.html

2) Quick fix would be: inspect for loose wires and signs of high heat, test the elements, and then replace both thermostats, and see if problem clears up.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

3) Full test: Take 45 minutes and do complete troubleshoot.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you via e-mail while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

I think your problem is the buildup, which would cause your elements to work much harder trying to heat the water - especially if you have well water as opposed to chlorinated city water, although city water still has calcium, etc. in it.. Add a whole house filter to your water line where it comes into your dwelling - there are a myriad of elements available at varying microns to catch the calcium
and other contaminants. These filters normally need changed every 3 months - I would check your after a month to see what it is catching. These whole house filter systems are not expensive - check out your local hardware or plumbing store, I'm sure they can guide you to the proper set up ( after you verify what they say through some online research) . Better safe than sorry !!
p.s.there should be 2 elements in your water heater - 1 above and 1 below, so after you've installed your filter change both elements - I'm sure you'll find they last a lot longer!! Also - before you cut off water to your home for the install, fill up a clean 5 gallon bucket and RINSE the filter element , then turn off the water supply to your water heater to prevent a loss of prime and water hammer to the pipes.

The reset button kicks out because the thermostat detects overheating.
Anything over 150 degrees, the reset kicks out.

This is caused by 4 things.
1) Bad upper or lower thermostat. Thermostat sticking in 'on' position and elements overheating water.
2) Factory-installed insulation and cover are removed
3) Bad element shorted to ground at center of element, and element continues heating with 120V through the ground wire.
4) Loose wire near upper thermostat, that is shorting and causing heat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Solution:
Check for missing insulation.
Check for loose and burned wires.
Replace both upper and lower thermostat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

If problems continue, test water heater elements and replace bad element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

If you need more help, add a comment and I will respond.

The reset button or ECO (emergency cut-off) is a safety device.
The ECO trips and cuts off power to entire water heater when it detects temperatures over 150 degrees.
This prevents overheating and eventual explosion of water heater.

The ECO will trip for 4 possible reasons:
1) Bad thermostat. Water temperature inside tank exceeds 150 degrees F because thermostat is sticking in ON position, and thermostat does not turn off element correctly.
2) Loose wire inside or near upper thermostat that causes ECO to sense higher temperature
3) Bad element shorted to ground near center of element, and short does not cause breaker to trip
4) Factory-installed insulation and cover are removed from water heater >>> cooler air causes thermostat to read wrong temperature, and thermostat keeps heating water inside tank

Steps you can take:
First thing is to check if factory-insulation-and-cover are present.
Next look for signs of burning at or near screw terminals. Tighten loose wire if found.
Especially check the lower element screw terminals.
Take a photograph of the parts so you can see the parts larger on your computer, and compare parts more easily when buying new parts.
Next most likely suspect are the thermostats.
For around $22, you can buy generic upper-and-lower thermostats at Lowes or hardware store > then replace the thermostat(s) and see if problem persists.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

If problem continues after steps above
You will need to test water heater parts to track down the exact problem:
You need a inexpensive multimeter from Radio Shack, and the steps are simple, and you will know everything about an electric water heater afterward.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

Answer back if you encounter something not covered above, and I will help.

Only two things come to mind. Either the clock is not set to the correct time (which I'm sure it is) or one of the elements most likely the bottom one is not heating for some reason. I would start by leaving the heater on 24 hrs by removing the trippers and switching it on. See if the problem goes away. If it does then focus on the timer settings, give it more warm up time etc. Make sure the clock is set to the right time and keeps time. If the problem persists on a 24 hrs running schedule then focus on the elements. --Turn the power off at the breaker-- and remove the access cover for each of the elements and or thermostats. Check the thermostat settings on each element for reasonableness. Sometimes the thermostat is covered by insulation material. If you need further assistance please write back with more detail. I can walk you through an element checkout if you have an AC volt / ohmmeter but since its new it should been under warranty.