Question about Intermatic T103 Indoor 120-Volt 40-amp Timer Switch-Double Pole/Single Thro
Ive been doing electrical for only three years and have had very little on wiring timers.i'm putting in a t103r at a hotel where i have 120 coming from panel (3 wires,hot, neutral,ground).4 wires coming from lighting control panel(2 hots ones red ones black another red and a white.what goes where.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Lights dont stay on
I must assume that when the light goes out (quickly after it goes on) that you can turn it on again very soon and the same thing will occur. This cold be an overload; that is, the timer is designed for handling 300 watts (as an example) and you have 400 or more watts of lighting, therefore the timer is saying this is too much and cutting off. Or there can be a bad light that is drawing too much electric such as a fluorecent light with a bad ballast. Or, if this outlet where the switch was, has only 2 wires that went to the old switch (and no other wires) then you may be feeding current into the new timer switch and shorting it out. The essential point is: is this switch outlet box with only 2 wires where the black and white both went to the switch, or are there more wires where 2 blacks (or a black & red) went to the old switch and the white wires are nutted together and not attached to the old switch.
You need to determine the wiring system within the box before you can determine how to apply them to this timer unit. Remember, the timer needs a nuetral and ahot just to operate, then it needs to feed this operated conrolled electric to the light via the red output wire. Regular switches do not work in this manner.
Posted on Apr 28, 2010
SOURCE: installing a GE digital wall
Black goes to Hot wire from breaker box
Red wire goes to Load (light, fan, motor)
White wire goes to Neutral
Green to bare copper ground wire
Your original switch had 2 wires plus bare ground.
One of these wires is Hot, the other goes to Load.
You said original wires are Red and Black
How do you find Hot wire?
-Your original switch had 2 wires.
-Remove timer from box.
-Pull original 2 wires out where you can test them
-Turn on power
-Use regular tester
-Tape tester leads to wood sticks so your hands stay away from voltage
-Power is on
-Test each original wire to bare ground wire
-When tester lights up, that is Hot wire ... this wire connects to Black wire on timer
- The other wire goes to Load so it connects to Red wire on timer
How to test for Neutral wire
Test Hot wire to your white wires - No need to untwist them.
When tester lights up, that is Neutral
White wire from timer connects to Neutral.
Green goes to ground wire.
How to reset timer
I'm not sure which timer you have. Probably GE 15086. Reset is small round button below HOUR button. Use paper clip and push-in reset until timer flashes 12 o'clock.
Posted on Sep 30, 2010
I test these timers.
GE 15071 timer has internal clock that runs on electricity. That's why timer has extra wire.
Intermatic, GE, Tork, Leviton, Sylvania, Woods, Utilitec etc in-wall timers each wire the same way.
The only tiny difference is GE doesn't have green ground wire.
Here's what to do:
1) Old switch has two screws (excluding green ground screw)
One screw on old switch has 2 black wires >> these are hot wires > timer black wire connects to these hot wires. This will power the timer.
2) The other switch wire connects to timer red wire. This will send timer signal to lights.
3) Timer white wire is for the timer clock.
Timer white wire connects to other white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut >>> these are neutral wires, and now timer clock will operate
4) For EZ connection to other white wires, strip back another inch on timer white wire so stranded wire can wrap like a candy cane around solid copper wires. Then twist wire nut on very tight.
5) When wiring is complete, push door on timer for manual override. Lights should turn ON-OFF. If lights do not turn on, reverse timer red and timer black wires. Make sure outdoor bulbs are working.
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Posted on Dec 14, 2010
Open following link to see clear drawing and instructions for wiring ST01C timer.
Page also has EZ programming steps:
Red wire is capped.
Blue wire goes to Load (wire to sconces)
Black wire connects to Line wire (wire from breaker)
Green wire goes to ground.
If you are uncertain about Load and Line wires, just connect them either way, turn power ON, push on-off button, it lights don't come on, then reverse wires.
I have tested this timer, and information here is correct.
Don't forget to install CR2 battery, otherwise display will not show.
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Posted on Mar 01, 2011
SOURCE: I bought a Utilitech Self
The reason there is 2 black in the wall is because a standard line breaking switch was used. Meaning the hot side of the light was the black wire once broken light goes off. You would hook the black from switch to black in wall and white from switch to other black in wall green is ground and red put wire nut on. Red is for a 2 switch system. Where one of two switches in same room controls same light. Its not needed. Take caution when doing this trun light on goto breaker box and flip breakers till you find the right one that powers that light. once lights off then do your thing replacing.
Posted on May 06, 2011
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