Noisy water pipe

1. Shut off water supply to the house at the main.
2. Open all the cold water faucets, start with the highest faucet (2nd or 3rd floor) and work to your lowest faucet (first or basement floor).
3. Flush all the toilets in the home.
4. Let water drain from open faucets.
   
   Fix Noisy Toilet ' Stop Toilet Water Hammer or Resonance ' Toilet Making Noise When Filling ' Fix Water Hammer in Toilet ' Fluidmaster

Sounds like water hammer. Air in the pipes. Lower volume of water out of the sprayer isn't enough to initiate the hammer. Try shutting the water off to the house and draining the pipes.
Open the offending faucet and turn the water back on this should eliminate the air in the pipes.

A disturbed water flow causes such sounds. Since the sound propagates through the entire plumbing? The problem may be hard to pinpoint but is generally located at a valve or an endpoint.
Check that all valves are opened completely
Try removing one of the faucets and letting the water flow freely
If you can not repair - descaling or replacement.

follow this chart troubleshooting and fix it. God bless you
est and replace a high-limit cutoff:

1. Disconnect power to the heater at the electrical panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
2. Remove the upper access panel and push the reset button.
3. Replace the access panel and turn the power back on. If the water is hot, the reset was the problem. If not, you'll need to turn the power off again and reopen the access panel.
4. Use a multimeter to test the cutoff terminals for continuity. If faulty, replace with an exact replacement part.

Drain a tank:

1. Shut off power at the electrical panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
2. Close the cold-water supply valve and open a hot-water faucet somewhere in the house (to speed draining).
3. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run it outside the house.
4. Open the drain valve and allow all water to drain out.
5. To refill the tank, close the drain valve tightly and open the cold-water supply valve. Also open a nearby hot-water faucet. When a steady stream of water flows from that faucet, the tank is full and the faucet can be closed.
6. Once the tank is full, turn the electrical power back on.

Test and replace a relief valve:

1. Lift the spring lever on the valve to fill a small cup. Check the cup for sediment.
2. If no water spurts out, or if water continues to drip after the valve is released, replace the valve.
3. Cut power at the electrical panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on. Close the cold-water supply valve.
4. Drain a few gallons of water from the tank.
5. Unscrew and remove the discharge pipe if used.
6. Loosen the relief valve with a pipe wrench, then remove the valve by hand.
7. Apply pipe tape to the threads of the replacement valve and screw it into the tank by hand. Tighten it with a pipe wrench. Screw the discharge pipe (if any) into the valve outlet.
8. Refill the water heater and restore electrical power.

Replace a drain valve:

1. Shut off power at the electrical panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
2. Close the cold-water supply valve and drain the water heater completely (see above).
3. Unscrew the drain valve with a pipe wrench.
4. Replace the drain valve with an identical unit wrapping the end with pipe tape.
5. Refill the tank and restore electricity.

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
Drain a tank:

1. Shut off power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
2. Close the cold-water supply valve and open a hot-water faucet somewhere in the house (to speed draining).
3. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run it outside the house.
4. Open the drain valve and allow all water to drain out.
5. To refill the tank, close the drain valve tightly and open the cold-water supply valve. Also open a nearby hot-water faucet. When a steady stream of water flows from that faucet, the tank is full and the faucet can be closed.
6. Once the tank is full, turn the electrical power back on.

Test and replace a relief valve:

1. Lift the spring lever on the valve to fill a small cup. Check the cup for sediment.
2. If no water spurts out, or if water continues to drip after the valve is released, replace the valve.
3. Cut power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on. Close the cold-water supply valve.
4. Drain a few gallons of water from the tank.
5. Unscrew and remove the discharge pipe if used.
6. Loosen the relief valve with a pipe wrench, then remove the valve by hand.
7. Apply pipe tape to the threads of the replacement valve and screw it into the tank by hand. Tighten it with a pipe wrench. Screw the discharge pipe (if any) into the valve outlet.
8. Refill the water heater and restore electrical power.

please see the next step:
he pilot light may be out or may not stay lit. There may not be enough hot water, or the water may be too hot. The water heater may leak or be noisy, or the hot water may be dirty.
A problem with your water heater may be due to overwork, not mechanics. If your water heater holds less than 15 gallons per family member (tank volume is stamped on a metal plate affixed to most water heaters), consider a larger unit or staggering your use of hot water.
Drain a hot water tank:

1. Turn the gas-control knob to off and close the gas-shutoff valve.
2. Close the cold-water supply valve and open a hot-water faucet in the house to speed draining.
3. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run it outside to a drain. If the heater is in the basement you may need to run the hose to or through a sump pump.
4. Open the drain valve and allow the tank to drain.
5. Once done, close the drain valve, open the cold-water supply valve, and open any nearby hot-water faucet. When a steady stream of water flows from that faucet, the tank is full; close the hot-water faucet.
6. Once the tank is full, turn on the gas and relight the pilot.

when plumbing knocks and shakes the fittings I never seen it being the fauect causeing it. What it sounds more like that you have a loose pipe in the wall. That will bang every time the water goes on and off.

All single handle faucets are quick shut off which does not help to stop the bang. It makes it worst.

Try at first to turn off the water to the house, then open every fauect in the house and on the out side. I know it sound nuts, but this is what you are doing. when a house is bulit they install an AIR CHAMBER this is no more than a section of pipe 12 to 24 inch long with a cap on the end.

This traps air inside, you can compress air but not water so this acts like a shock absorboer that stops water hammer.

Now turn the water back on and then tirn off all the open fauects. If it stil does it you might have to open a wall and strap down the pipe work. also get some flex water supply lines for the lav faucet this will let the pipe move without making any bang soounds

You may be experiencing what is commonly called "water hammer" from trapped air in the water lines. The most common way to eliminate a water hammer is to replenish all air chambers with air. You can't inspect them, so here is how you do it. Shut off your home's main water supply valve (usually located by the water meter inside the basement, or on the other side of the wall from the water meter if the meter is outside the house.) Next, open the nearest outside faucet to the water meter. Then open several of the inside faucets including the one in the Master Bath. Last, open the faucet that is at the lowest level of the property (usually the utility tub in the basement). Turn it on all the way to drain all the water from the pipes. As the water is drained from the pipes, it is automatically replaced by air, including the air chambers. The moment the water is completely drained from the piping the lowest faucet should be turned off and the main valve reopened. Aire will be pushed out of the horizontal and open vertical water lines and sputter as it exits the faucets inside and out. When all faucets are running smoothly, close them one by one from outside to inside, lowest to highest. In most cases, this should give you quiet running faucets.

Sounds as if you have air in the pipes.
To solve this you will need a piece of hose that will fit over the ends of your hot and cold faucets in the kitchen (or other lowest faucets in the house) - fix it on tightly with hose clips and open both faucets fully. Wait 5 minutes or so before turning off hot water faucet first.
If that hasn't cleared it repeat the process but after 5 minutes turn on your shower faucet and see if it splutters as the air is forced out. You may have to do this with other faucets in the house too. Close each one off once the water runs evenly without air in it.
If that doesn't work you will need to drain your hot water system down completely. Turn off water supply at the hot water cylinder (or rising main if you have a tank-less system) and open all faucets until water stops flowing. Close each faucet about 2/3rds then turn on water supply again. Wait for each faucet to get a slow but steady flow. Going round each faucet in turn gradually open each on a little bit more until all are running fast and even and all the air has spurted out. Now go round each faucet in turn closing each one down a bit at a time until they are only dribbling a small amount. Turn all faucets off.

Fix Ya, then?