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Noisy water pipe

When I close the water in the house after I open the faucet, it make's noise
and shakes the house

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It is called hydraulic hammer nd meant that you have very good pressure in your lanes, if it start suddenly, this meant that your air chamber lost it's air, in that case simplest solution will be as follows:

1. close the mains,
2. open all taps (fawcets) and drain all water from the system,
3. close all taps (fawcets)
4. open mains and check if hammer is still present.

if hammer is still present, that meant you need to clean your airchamber, you need to find where it is lockated, follow steps 1 and 2, open airchamber, check if any debris inside and clean, re-seal the chamber, then follow steps 3 and 4.

if hammer was always, this meant that you do not even have airchamber. you can install one easy for yourself, just purchase one, and best place for it is on the end of the line, somehere close to most offending faucet.

if you find this advice helpfu, please do not hesitate leave your remark and give me your vote, thanx!

Posted on Aug 02, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

When Faucet is turned on I get a loud noise. If I use the Sprayer the noise goes away.


Sounds like water hammer. Air in the pipes. Lower volume of water out of the sprayer isn't enough to initiate the hammer. Try shutting the water off to the house and draining the pipes.
Open the offending faucet and turn the water back on this should eliminate the air in the pipes.

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A disturbed water flow causes such sounds. Since the sound propagates through the entire plumbing? The problem may be hard to pinpoint but is generally located at a valve or an endpoint.
Check that all valves are opened completely
Try removing one of the faucets and letting the water flow freely
If you can not repair - descaling or replacement.

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How to clear Major plumbing clogs


I am assuming that you are referring to a calcium or rust build up in the water heater.
If you are having this issue you will need to turn off the water to the heater. You will need a garden hose, access to a outside water soucre, cold water is fine.
Shut off the gas or power to the hot water heater before starting.
Now you will need to place the garden house on the drain fitting on the water heater, placing the end of the hose outside and lower than the drain valve. Open the valve and drain the heater, you will need to open a hot water faucet to help drain the heater. I don't suggest opening the TPR ( Temp Pressures relief )valve due to the fact that they sometimes leak or don't reseal after opening them.
Hopefully the drain valve is not clogged, you should hear and see water exiting the garden hose.
If you are not getting any water from the drain valve you are going to have a challenging task.
If no water is coming out, my recommendation is to get the required tools to remove the hot water line from the top or side or the heater, also a few towels to soak up water A bucket is helpfull also.
remove the hot water line, then you will have to use a small hose to siphon the water from the tank. Once the tank is empty you can then remove the drain valve and replace it.
once you have replaced the drain valve you should ensure that it's closed and use a Gallon of CLR. Poor this into the water heater through the hot water outlet where you removed the pipe from. Now make sure the faucets are closed and replace the hot water line. You can now turn the water back on to the water heater.
After a few minutes open a hot water faucet to let out any air until water flows out, than close the faucet.
Let the water heater set for a few hours, then drain the tank!
when the tank drains, close the drain valve again and refill the water heater. Once again open a a hot water faucet and let the air out till the water heater fills. Again let sit for a hour.
At this point open a hot water faucet at the farthest point from the heater and let the water run for 5 min. , than close it and move to the next closest faucet and repeat until all faucets have been opened and run for 5 minutes.
If you still have a slow flow in a faucet, you may need to repeat the CLR step.
I also suggest that you remove all faucet screens and clean them.
If you still have a clog than you are going to have to remove or replace a piece of water line in the house. The blockage may be hard to find but if you have access to most of the pipe or it's visable you may be able to hear the blockage with the water on. Otherwise this will result in using some water line taps and a pressure guage to find the blockage.

Oct 17, 2013 | Mountain Plumbing Water Heaters

1 Answer

Crown boiler


follow this chart troubleshooting and fix it. God bless you
est and replace a high-limit cutoff:
  1. Disconnect power to the heater at the electrical panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Remove the upper access panel and push the reset button.
  3. Replace the access panel and turn the power back on. If the water is hot, the reset was the problem. If not, you'll need to turn the power off again and reopen the access panel.
  4. Use a multimeter to test the cutoff terminals for continuity. If faulty, replace with an exact replacement part.
Drain a tank:
  1. Shut off power at the electrical panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Close the cold-water supply valve and open a hot-water faucet somewhere in the house (to speed draining).
  3. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run it outside the house.
  4. Open the drain valve and allow all water to drain out.
  5. To refill the tank, close the drain valve tightly and open the cold-water supply valve. Also open a nearby hot-water faucet. When a steady stream of water flows from that faucet, the tank is full and the faucet can be closed.
  6. Once the tank is full, turn the electrical power back on.
Test and replace a relief valve:
  1. Lift the spring lever on the valve to fill a small cup. Check the cup for sediment.
  2. If no water spurts out, or if water continues to drip after the valve is released, replace the valve.
  3. Cut power at the electrical panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on. Close the cold-water supply valve.
  4. Drain a few gallons of water from the tank.
  5. Unscrew and remove the discharge pipe if used.
  6. Loosen the relief valve with a pipe wrench, then remove the valve by hand.
  7. Apply pipe tape to the threads of the replacement valve and screw it into the tank by hand. Tighten it with a pipe wrench. Screw the discharge pipe (if any) into the valve outlet.
  8. Refill the water heater and restore electrical power.
Replace a drain valve:
  1. Shut off power at the electrical panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Close the cold-water supply valve and drain the water heater completely (see above).
  3. Unscrew the drain valve with a pipe wrench.
  4. Replace the drain valve with an identical unit wrapping the end with pipe tape.
  5. Refill the tank and restore electricity.

Oct 14, 2013 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Low flow trough the heater


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
Drain a tank:
  1. Shut off power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Close the cold-water supply valve and open a hot-water faucet somewhere in the house (to speed draining).
  3. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run it outside the house.
  4. Open the drain valve and allow all water to drain out.
  5. To refill the tank, close the drain valve tightly and open the cold-water supply valve. Also open a nearby hot-water faucet. When a steady stream of water flows from that faucet, the tank is full and the faucet can be closed.
  6. Once the tank is full, turn the electrical power back on.
Test and replace a relief valve:
  1. Lift the spring lever on the valve to fill a small cup. Check the cup for sediment.
  2. If no water spurts out, or if water continues to drip after the valve is released, replace the valve.
  3. Cut power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on. Close the cold-water supply valve.
  4. Drain a few gallons of water from the tank.
  5. Unscrew and remove the discharge pipe if used.
  6. Loosen the relief valve with a pipe wrench, then remove the valve by hand.
  7. Apply pipe tape to the threads of the replacement valve and screw it into the tank by hand. Tighten it with a pipe wrench. Screw the discharge pipe (if any) into the valve outlet.
  8. Refill the water heater and restore electrical power.

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1 Answer

Heater comes on with water


please see the next step:
he pilot light may be out or may not stay lit. There may not be enough hot water, or the water may be too hot. The water heater may leak or be noisy, or the hot water may be dirty.
A problem with your water heater may be due to overwork, not mechanics. If your water heater holds less than 15 gallons per family member (tank volume is stamped on a metal plate affixed to most water heaters), consider a larger unit or staggering your use of hot water.
Drain a hot water tank:
  1. Turn the gas-control knob to off and close the gas-shutoff valve.
  2. Close the cold-water supply valve and open a hot-water faucet in the house to speed draining.
  3. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run it outside to a drain. If the heater is in the basement you may need to run the hose to or through a sump pump.
  4. Open the drain valve and allow the tank to drain.
  5. Once done, close the drain valve, open the cold-water supply valve, and open any nearby hot-water faucet. When a steady stream of water flows from that faucet, the tank is full; close the hot-water faucet.
  6. Once the tank is full, turn on the gas and relight the pilot.


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Jul 31, 2012 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

There is a knocking sound from inside the faucet and it is leaking under it


when plumbing knocks and shakes the fittings I never seen it being the fauect causeing it. What it sounds more like that you have a loose pipe in the wall. That will bang every time the water goes on and off.

All single handle faucets are quick shut off which does not help to stop the bang. It makes it worst.

Try at first to turn off the water to the house, then open every fauect in the house and on the out side. I know it sound nuts, but this is what you are doing. when a house is bulit they install an AIR CHAMBER this is no more than a section of pipe 12 to 24 inch long with a cap on the end.

This traps air inside, you can compress air but not water so this acts like a shock absorboer that stops water hammer.

Now turn the water back on and then tirn off all the open fauects. If it stil does it you might have to open a wall and strap down the pipe work. also get some flex water supply lines for the lav faucet this will let the pipe move without making any bang soounds

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1 Answer

Brand new $65 Peerless Faucet installed in Master bath---squeals like a woman having a kid & the master has to flush the toilet 6 to 8 times or so a day & night to make it *******!!! I've had...


You may be experiencing what is commonly called "water hammer" from trapped air in the water lines. The most common way to eliminate a water hammer is to replenish all air chambers with air. You can't inspect them, so here is how you do it. Shut off your home's main water supply valve (usually located by the water meter inside the basement, or on the other side of the wall from the water meter if the meter is outside the house.) Next, open the nearest outside faucet to the water meter. Then open several of the inside faucets including the one in the Master Bath. Last, open the faucet that is at the lowest level of the property (usually the utility tub in the basement). Turn it on all the way to drain all the water from the pipes. As the water is drained from the pipes, it is automatically replaced by air, including the air chambers. The moment the water is completely drained from the piping the lowest faucet should be turned off and the main valve reopened. Aire will be pushed out of the horizontal and open vertical water lines and sputter as it exits the faucets inside and out. When all faucets are running smoothly, close them one by one from outside to inside, lowest to highest. In most cases, this should give you quiet running faucets.

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1 Answer

Have a pegasus shower faucet an it knocs every time you turn the hot water on in any part of the hause


Sounds as if you have air in the pipes.
To solve this you will need a piece of hose that will fit over the ends of your hot and cold faucets in the kitchen (or other lowest faucets in the house) - fix it on tightly with hose clips and open both faucets fully. Wait 5 minutes or so before turning off hot water faucet first.
If that hasn't cleared it repeat the process but after 5 minutes turn on your shower faucet and see if it splutters as the air is forced out. You may have to do this with other faucets in the house too. Close each one off once the water runs evenly without air in it.
If that doesn't work you will need to drain your hot water system down completely. Turn off water supply at the hot water cylinder (or rising main if you have a tank-less system) and open all faucets until water stops flowing. Close each faucet about 2/3rds then turn on water supply again. Wait for each faucet to get a slow but steady flow. Going round each faucet in turn gradually open each on a little bit more until all are running fast and even and all the air has spurted out. Now go round each faucet in turn closing each one down a bit at a time until they are only dribbling a small amount. Turn all faucets off.

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