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Rotor, stator, silicon steel sheets, capacitor, ball bearing, steel rod, enameled copper wire, aluminium blades

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Posted on Jul 31, 2010

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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2 Answers

VS V6 valve timing position


Here is Holden\'s Alloytec V6 in glorious technical detail.

2011-05-31_141148_q1.jpg

The global V6 engine is the first V6 engine program to address what Thomas G. Stephens, group vice president, GM Powertrain, says is a vital initiative: to develop world-class engines with fully contemporary features - such as dual overhead cams and variable valve timing - but at a competitive cost structure that allows use of the engines in a global mix of vehicles.



Exhaust: 111 degrees BTDC initial timing

50 crankshaft degrees retard authority



Compression Ratio:10.2:1



Bore Centers:103 mm



Firing Order:1-2-3-4-5-6



Fuel Shutoff:6,700 rpm



Engine Idle Speed:600 rpm



Fuel System:Sequential port fuel injection (returnless)



Engine Management:Torque-based; Bosch Motronic ME 9 32-bit micro-hybrid controller



Intake Manifold:Dual-plenum, equal-length with 2-position variable volume control (resonance tuned)



Throttle:68-mm single bore; electronic control (ETC)



Ignition:Individual coil-on-plug; individual cylinder knock control



Fuel Requirement:Premium fuel recommended



Emissions Controls:Dual close-coupled catalytic converters (1.15L ultra-thinwall ceramic)

Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV)

Intake- and exhaust-cam phasers (EGR)

Evaporative emissions system



Assembly Sites:St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada

Port Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

Material Applications



Block Material:Aluminium, precision sand-cast 319 with cast-in-place iron liners



Cylinder Head Material:Aluminium, semi-permanent mould 319



Intake Manifold:Upper: Aluminium, sand-cast 319

Lower: Aluminium, 356-T6



Exhaust Manifold:High-silicon moly cast iron



Camshaft Covers:Injection compression thermoset composite; vibration isolated



Front Cover:Diecast 380 aluminium; internal multilayer damping panels



Crankshaft:Forged steel



Connecting Rods:Sinterforged steel



Pistons:Aluminium, polymer-coated skirts, full-floating wristpins



Main Bearing Caps:6 bolt caps, copper-infiltrated sintered steel



Oil Pan:Structural diecast aluminium, steel windage and baffle plates



Additional features:Pressure-actuated piston-cooling oil jets

Extended-life sparkplugs, coolant, accessory belts

Cartridge-style, top-access oil filter

Oil-level sensor

Wide-range oxygen sensors

Aug 16, 2014 | 1998 Holden VT Commodore

1 Answer

I purchased a generac 22 kw 3 phase 120/240 volt generator. I was surprised to find that it had a wild leg. Can i change the leads on the stator output to eliminate the high leg and get straight 120/208...


This unit is wired 120-240V 3 phase Delta. if you are using on it 120/208V 3 phase application it will need to be re-tapped. If you are using it in a home 120-240V single phase it will need re-tapping, Do NOT just use 2 legs, as this will cause rotor imbalance and wear out the rotor bearings, and odd ball currents to flow. If there are 12 leads coming off the stator it can be reconnected. If not you are stuck with it, except by using a transformer

Dec 15, 2013 | Generac Generator QT02224JNAX QuietSource...

1 Answer

Where is the stator on the model 580 3256 generator


On a motor or generator, the stator is the non-moving frame or housing. The stator holds the stationary electrical windings.

8_2_2012_5_23_28_pm.jpg

The rotating windings are on the armature or rotor. The rotor is supported by and spins in ball or sleeve bearings that are on the end bells (or caps) of the motor assembly. Power is passed to them via brushes in the stator to slip rings or commutator on the rotor.

Jul 27, 2012 | Briggs Stratton H7159 & Stratton® 5500,...

1 Answer

How do you replace the bearings on the shaft


Shaft bearing replacement on any motor requires that the rotor (the part that spins) assembly be removed from the stator (the non-moving body that contains windings) and the end bells (the motor ends that the bearings are supported within).

Once the rotor assembly is removed, shaft must be pressed out of the bearings. Shops that do this work employ an arbor press as shown below for this work.

3_27_2012_5_29_03_pm.jpg

This is done best by hanging the entire rotor assembly by the inner race of the bearing. The inner race is the inner ring of the bearing that is pressed on the rotor's shaft. The outer race is the outer ring of the bearing that fits in the end bells. The ball bearings are located between the inner and outer races. If you lack an arbor press to hang the rotor from, you might cut a U shaped slot only slightly wider than the shaft in the edge of a piece of flat steel stock. You could secure the flat steel between two uprights with the rotor hanging in the U slot. Repeated blows to the top of the shaft with a softer metal than shaft - or with a block of wood between the hammer and shaft - should force the shaft downward and eventually free it from the bearing.

By supporting the rotor by the inner race, no undue stress is placed on the ball bearings - and it could be reinstalled again if needed. If you are replacing the bearing, you do not need to be as fussy with supporting by the inner race. You must support by the inner race during removal if you need to reinstall the bearing as the bearing would be damaged if not.

Installing a new bearing or reinstalling the old bearing on the shaft will require the the bearing is supported by the inner race and the rotor be pressed or driven into the inner race. If the shaft is driven or forced into the inner race and support of the bearing is not at the inner race, the balls in the bearing will be damaged and will be noisy, run hot and fail prematurely.

If the bearings are to be pressed into end bells then they should be pressed or driven by the outer race, not the inner race. We're trying to drive or force the part of the bearing that is being held - rather than trying to transfer the pressure or blows through the steel balls that are between the inner and outer races. Use of an old socket, piece of steel pipe, etc. that has the same outside diameter as the outer race often works well to evenly transfer the blows directly to the outer race. Do not try to apply the blows by alternating the energy of the plows all around the race - keep the energy of the blows centered evenly. Use a block of wood to help absorb some of the energy to prevent damage to the bearing or causing pieces of steel from breaking off the pipe, hammer or socket. Always wear safety glasses and gloves!

Mar 13, 2012 | MotorGuide STANDARD MOTOR REPLACEMENT...

1 Answer

When sitting at a red light my Mazda 3 idles real funny...vibrating almost sounding like a cats purr?


2006 Mazda 3


Applies to 2006 Mazda Mazda3:
Available engines
4 Cylinders 2.0L MFI DOHC
4 Cylinders 2.3L MFI DOHC


Could be a number of things - you're going to end up checking the entire car.

Off the top of my head:
a) exhaust component has rusted loose (usually catalytic converter heat shield). Any loose exhaust component (hanger/muffler, etc.) will vibrate at idle.
b) glove compartment door - loose hinge
c) motor mount - rubber part of metal/rubber mount vibrates loose & falls out.
d) transmission mount - ditto.

The Maintenance manual for your car says:

Clicking noise at idle or driving
--------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Main (Crankshaft) Bearing - Excessive Bearing Clearance.
1 Inspect Rod Bearing - Incorrect Rod or Main Bearing Clearances.
2 Inspect Rocker Arm - Worn or Incorrectly Adjusted Rocker Arm(s).
3 Inspect Piston Ring Set - Worn or Broken Piston Rings.
4 Inspect Piston - Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Piston.
5 Inspect Fuel Line Assembly - Fuel Line Leaking.
6 Inspect Hose Clamp - Loose or Missing Fuel Line Clamps.

Tapping noise at idle
------------------------------
1 Inspect Valve Lifter - Insufficient Oil Supply.
2 Inspect Fan Blade - Broken, Missing, or Faulty Fan Blade(s).
3 Inspect Oil Pump Screen - Clogged Oil Pump Screen.
4 Inspect Oil Pump Drive Gear - Damaged or Faulty Oil Pump Drive Gear.
5 Inspect Exhaust Valve(s) - Burned, Worn, or Sticking Exhaust Valves.
6 Inspect Oil(Crankcase)Capacity - Lifters Need Additional Lubrication.
7 Inspect Oil Filler Cap - Oil Filler Cap Damaged or Missing.
8 Inspect Oil Pump - Damaged or Faulty Oil Pump.
9 Inspect Oil Filter - Old or Clogged Oil Filter.
10 Inspect Oil FLow Check Valve - Damaged or Faulty Oil FLow Check Valve Caused Loss of Oil Pressure.

Vibration while Accelerating
-----------------------------------------
1 Inspect CV Half-Shaft (Remanufactured) CCT - Worn or Damaged CV Half-Shaft.

vibration while braking
--------------------------------
1 Inspect Brake Rotor - Warped or Uneven Brake Rotor Surface.

Vibration while driving - entire vehicle
-----------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Brake Rotor Specs - Warped or Uneven Brake Rotor Surface.
2 Inspect Ball Joint-Lower - Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Ball Joint.
3 Inspect Ball Joint-UPPER - Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Ball Joint.
3 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Front - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.
5 Inspect Tie Rod End - Worn or Damaged Tie Rod Ends.
6 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.
7 Inspect Wheel Hub Bearing - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Hub Bearing.

Vibration in rear axle area while driving
-----------------------------------------
1 Inspect U-Joint - Loose, Worn, or Damaged U-Joint.
2 Inspect Driveshaft - Bent, Loose or Unbalanced Driveshaft.
4 Inspect Differential Drive Pinion - Worn, Damaged or Broken Pinion Teeth.
4 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.
5 Inspect Pinion Bearing - Worn or Damaged Pinion Bearings or Yolk Shaft.


Vibration in steering wheel while driving
---------------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.

Vibration in tire/wheel area while driving
------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Front - Incorrectly Tightened or Installed Wheel Bearing.

Vibration under vehicle while driving
---------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect U-Joint - Loose, Worn, or Damaged U-Joint.
2 Inspect Muffler - Damaged or Burned Out Muffler.

Vibration in rear wheeel area while driving
------------------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.

Dec 01, 2011 | 2006 Mazda 3

1 Answer

What does a stator and rotor look like on NorthStar 5500W generator


The stator is the series of copper windings inside the generator (does not move,). The stator will have several pairs of leads connected to the control panel. The rotor also has winding however is the center revolving shaft. The rotor creates a magnet that excites the stator. The rotor could be brush type having two or more rings where carbon brushes make contact or brushless having built-in diodes and voltage regulator (some not all). You can obtain resistance reading from your dealer to test the windings in the stator. You can easily test the brush type rotor by applying 12v (one or two amp) dc to the rings and test for good magnet at metal part of rotor ( use thin metal blade). Good luck

Oct 15, 2011 | Northstar Generator 9 Hp, 5500 Watt,...

1 Answer

We have a Reliance 501 (40 gallon) natural gas water heater Model 5 40 NORT0 Serial F94799798. Does it have a glass liner?


Your Reliance serial number shows your water heater was made in July 1994.

Except for the Marathon water heaters, and copper-tank water heaters, all tank-type water heaters are made of steel. That steel has an enamel coating which people call a glass liner.

So in that sense, there is a glass liner.
See a photo of the liner:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Enamel-coated-steel-290.jpg

Also inside the tank is an anode rode.
The anode is made to protect the steel tank.
Anode is made from lower noble metal than steel, so water reacts with the lower noble metal first.
The water eats away the anode rod instead of rusting the tank.
Once the anode rod is gone, the water begins rusting the tank.
The enamel coating does not protect the steel from rusting.
The tank rusts away and begins to leak.
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20047047,00.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

Nov 01, 2010 | Reliance Natural Gas Water Heater Control

2 Answers

The fan blade doesn't turn. The motor hums, the blade turns freely when you pushit with your hand.


possible bad capacitor.or motor windings are grounded.
try replacing the capacitor first.

Aug 18, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Lasko 3723 burnt motor


sorry but you need to purchase a new fan.
some times the motor is not aline correctly and the rotor "part that spins the blade" rubs on the stator "the part with the copper wire:" the motor
over heat with the friction, then smoke followed by the coil burning.

Jun 14, 2009 | Lasko 3723 Floor / Box Fan

1 Answer

Ball Bearing Replacement


when spinning , it is noisy. How to overcome it.

May 30, 2008 | Washing Machines

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