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Sears Kenmore ColdSpot Frostfree Frosting up/Not working

I have the above 106.7611400 (side by side), the freezer freezes up after 2-3 days and the fridge then doesn't get any cool air and the freezer food starts to thaw. I have to shut it off every 3-4 days, let the coils thaw along with all the food, and ruined food in the fridge for over 24 hrs then start it back up to work again, but only for 2-3 days... I am getting frustrated. What can I do?

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  • Julbrook Aug 11, 2008

    I have the same problem happens every year in July. Kenmore side by side model number 106.56536400. Freezer side freezes up and then frig side warms up. It's only three years old now and started doing this before it was a year old. I've had many many Sears repair men here to try and fix this problem but It's started again. Last year we purchased a Maytag refrigerator for back up. The Sears repair man has replaced the control board. Sealed it so tight that you can't open the door with out releasing air out of the freezer by holding down the ice maker bar just enough to only let air out. Also moved the defrost censor?? Said it was in the wrong place. This is the worst piece of junk Kenmore has made. My vents are not blocked and the freezer fan is blowing in fact the refrigerator just runs and runs and never shuts off. I keep it very clean underneath it is not dusty. I turned if off last week for three days opening the doors to make sure it was defrosted. Turned it back on only to have the same problem. The freezer side is super cold and the refrigerator side is starting to warm up again until no air comes through the vent and food will spoil. UNREAL! I'm wondering if low voltage could cause the freezer to be unable to defrost properly??? I've had the voltage tested and was told it was boarder line of being too low and it wasn't a hot day when I had it tested. On hot days when the A/C is running our light will dim constantly. Could low voltage be causing my refrigerator problems. The refrigerator does have this problem every July when the electricity demand is at a high. We live on a dead end road second house from the end. Could it not be getting enough power to defrost?

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You have a defrost problem. You need to determine which one of the parts is faulty. The defrost timer on that model should be behind the kick plate in the center front underneath. If you turn the little knob by hand you will hear a load click when it gets to the defrost point and the unit should shut off. Check in the bottom of the freezer to listen for water sizzleing or for water running down. If it is the timer is not advancing and needs replaced. If not you will have to take the back off the inside of the freezer to see if it is the heater or the defrost thermostat. Unhook power before taking panel off or replacing any parts.

Posted on Apr 24, 2008

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