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Samsung SRS536 side/side fridge no auto start, now weak cooling
A couple of weeks back our fridge stopped working ie no compressor coming on, though light was coming on. I discovered that if I turned it off then on, the compressor would start and it would thermostat to the correct temp. However it would not restart when it warmed up again. I saw this problem described similarly on Fixya but could not find a useful cause.
I had the idea to keep it running until I had time to do something with it by using a timer switch. I set this to come on 7 times in 24 hours with 15 minute off periods. This worked OK for 2 weeks, but now the fridge temp is only getting down to 13 deg C and the freezer is about -1 deg C, though the compressor is coming on. I can't really feel cold air being pushed out of the vents and the side panels (where the heat exchangers are) don't feel like they are getting warm, though maybe they don't get very warm most of the time anyway.
I am going to check the fans today, by taking the front fascias off from the front/inside. I have had a look at the motor/compressor etc and vacuumed, but it was pretty clean. It was bought in 2004, Australia so 240V version.
More details: Model SRS536NP
Compressor DK182Q-L2U
Model code RS20NASL1/XSA
serial no 817642BX600397B
And a pic of the block diagram on the back is here
I have more info. I have removed the freezer fascia and see that it is all iced up, that is preventing airflow. So I am defrosting to re-test. I wonder why it did not defrost itself though?
I would like to look into the controller electronics, where might I get a schematic or service manual? I have not tried Samsung yet since I hear they are shitty with help. I might add I am technically oreiented so can do a lot of investigation electrically, if I have some data.Thanks.
I have more info. I have removed the freezer fascia and see that it is all iced up, that is preventing airflow. So I am defrosting to re-test. I wonder why it did not defrost itself though?
I would like to look into the controller electronics, where might I get a schematic or service manual? I have not tried Samsung yet since I hear they are shitty with help. I might add I am technically oreiented so can do a lot of investigation electrically, if I have some data.
Possible scenario- the fault which causes a lack of re-starts of the compressor after the fridge warms up is still there, but my use of periodic resetting with a timer prevents the auto defrost from working. I have no idea when the system defrosts itself, maybe someone can offer general guidelines which most fridges follow? Until I can look at the electronics, I will continue with the timer. Maybe leaving it with no reset periods between midnight and 7am will allow a defrost cycle. I don't know but I will try this.OK, have defrosted and it is chilling OK.
Possible scenario- the fault which causes a lack of re-starts of the compressor after the fridge warms up is still there, but my use of periodic resetting with a timer prevents the auto defrost from working. I have no idea when the system defrosts itself, maybe someone can offer general guidelines which most fridges follow? Until I can look at the electronics, I will continue with the timer. Maybe leaving it with no reset periods between midnight and 7am will allow a defrost cycle. I don't know but I will try this.
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Re: Samsung SRS536 side/side fridge no auto start, now...
You give a pretty good discription;i would say this machine has leaked gas, the hole is not visable to the human eye therefore the machine is working and working trying to maintain the temp.my advice to you is buy yourself a new fridge,because this one will cost to much money to repair.adrian,,,,,,
UPDATE. I have figured out this problem. Once I searched a lot on the internet, I found some service manuals for fridges of similar age. I discovered that the defrost sensor on my fridge was reading too high ie. 25 kohm for 22 deg C ambient. It should have been about 5.5 kohm.This causes the defrost to stay on, causing the thermal fuse to blow. Once I found out that the defrost element is the skinny pipe in front and back of the evaporator, the penny dropped. All 3 heaters in the freezer check OK in resistance and I could not detect any shorts to the evaporator, (which I thought was the original fault.) Samsung Australia were no help, they in fact were obstructive, refusing to supply internal fridge parts. I have found these sensors are easy to get though from parts places. In the meantime, I have bought a new 6 door Mitsubishi fridge. It is fantastic and has 5 year warranty. I. I already have a 20 year old Aussie made Hoover fridge in the garage which is super reliable, so will sell the Samsung as I think it will become unreliable in the future.UPDATE. I have figured out this problem. Once I searched a lot on the internet, I found some service manuals for fridges of similar age. I discovered that the defrost sensor on my fridge was reading too high ie. 25 kohm for 22 deg C ambient. It should have been about 5.5 kohm.This causes the defrost to stay on, causing the thermal fuse to blow. Once I found out that the defrost element is the skinny pipe in front and back of the evaporator, the penny dropped. All 3 heaters in the freezer check OK in resistance and I could not detect any shorts to the evaporator, (which I thought was the original fault.) Samsung Australia were no help, they in fact were obstructive, refusing to supply internal fridge parts. I have found these sensors are easy to get though from parts places. In the meantime, I have bought a new 6 door Mitsubishi fridge. It is fantastic and has 5 year warranty. I. I already have a 20 year old Aussie made Hoover fridge in the garage which is super reliable, so will sell the Samsung as I think it will become unreliable in the future.
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If you have the door alarm continuously beeping you will need to try and hard reset the unit. Turn the circuit breaker for 4-5 minutes and retry the unit. But if still the 5 beeps are coming on, then its problem with control panel board.Its not detecting door closed.-------The control board needs to be inspected.----------If the doors are not getting closed, that means some cold air is getting out and thts why temp is not getting set.This is one possibility of temperature problem.--------But if both doors are closed tight and no issue of air getting lost out, then other possibility for this problem is weak compressor.-----------
The compressor just keeps on running.The problem is weak
compressor.The refrigerant in the compressor is got low.The compressor
is weak.The compressor needs to be replaced.--------------The working procedure of
this unit is as follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer
section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts
functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the
cool air in the freezer section is passed to the fridge section and the fridge
section gets cold. The air from freezer to refrigerator passes from the
section, in that section the damper is located.------------But as you mentioned
that freezer not cooling this indicates problem with compressor.When compressor
cools the freezer section then fridge section gets cold.If freezer section is
not getting properly cold then fridge section will not cool properly/.So the
problem relates to compressor.---------- In the compressor there is a
refrigerant called FREON.With the help of this Freon the compressor cools the
freezer section.Freon is a gaseous type cooling agent.The compressor will stop
cooling when coolant gets leaked from its chamber.---------Again recharging the
Freon is possible, but the cost for that recharging is approx the cost of new
compressor.So its always advisable to get compressor replaced.Because new
compressor has warranty for few years.------------------You can get required
parts from from online sites like: --- www.repairclinic.com or from
searspartsdirect online site. --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
2 possible issues. If compressor running, but not cooling - No freon in the system, or compressor valves are bad, not compressing freon. Ideal would be to check pressures on the system while its running. Could be some kind of restriction. most common problem i would guess low freon level. Here are 2 of my videos i have on my channel. first is leak found at evaporator coils. i used leak dye to find it, second video is replacing compressor, but had compressor completely down. installed 3-n-1 hard start kit, but compressor did not come on, so replaced compressor with filter drier. Hope this will give you an idea what to do next.
The temperature is not set to high cooling.First check the temperature setting.But if temperature is set right and still the ice cream is not cooling then .Problem relates to weak compressor.
-------------
The
problem is weak compressor.The refrigerant ( R12) in the compressor is got
low.The compressor is weak.The compressor needs to be replaced.--------------The working procedure of
this unit is as follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer
section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts
functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and
the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the fridge section and the
fridge section gets cold. The air from freezer to refrigerator passes from the
section, in that section the damper is located.------------But as you mentioned that ice cream is not freezing, so that means freezer is not freezing to its required temperature.------- This indicates problem with compressor.When compressor cools the
freezer section then fridge section gets cold.If freezer section is not getting
properly cold then fridge section will not cool properly/.So the problem
relates to compressor.---------- In the compressor there is a refrigerant
called FREON.With the help of this Freon the compressor cools the freezer
section.Freon is a gaseous type cooling agent.The compressor will stop cooling
when coolant gets leaked from its chamber.---------Again recharging the
Freon is possible, but the cost for that recharging is approx the cost of new
compressor.So its always advisable to get compressor replaced.Because new
compressor has warranty for few years.------------------You can get required
parts from from online sites like: --- www.repairclinic.com or from
searspartsdirect online site. --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
If there is no cooling at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within. Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours. Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts check if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters. So try this test from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
This is a pure case of the AUTO DEFROST timer having a fault or the THERMOSTAT being weak.
The fan is hitting onthe frost that is building up after a couple of days.When you shut the fridge all frost goes off to clear the fan , the frost then build up gradually as the timer does not activate the auto defrost or the thermostat is cutting off the fridge as it runs on.
So get these two parts checked and changed. Inthe first place ccheck the timerr, normally at the rear bottom.
Fault can be anyway from your compressor to low gas in the system. So first of all you will have to see if there is any fosting in the cooling coils. If so defrost by shutting the fridge for abbout 10 hours. Thereafter put the set on and see if the compressor runs for few hours in a stretch . If cooling has come back you will have to check for the auto defrosting section for failure of the timer, the heater or any wires to the thermostat. If there is no cooling still then you will have to check for gas pressure, or weakness in pumping of the compressor, even failure of valves / O rings in the compressor. If so get help find a good technician to give an estimate after his own solution which you can compare with our findings and go on. Good day
Most likely the thermostat in the fridge, especially if it read 5 degrees until you reset it. Possibly the compressor in the fridge side as this fridge has twin cooling, or the circulating fan in the back of the fridge is frozen, which is a common problem as well. Easiest things to try is to see if the fan is frozen and check if the fridge cooling is actually working. Turn off the fridge, remove the shelves, remove the 4 screws that hold in the bottom cover and the 2 screws that hold the water tank in. Cover should then come out a few inches. Reach behind and unplug the 2 plugs and pull out the cover. If the cover doesnt come out easily it may be glued to the back of the fridge by ice. Leave for a couple of hours and gently prize it off. Check for ice around the fan and that the fan spins freely. You could try sitting the cover inside the fridge, plug it in turn it back on for a few minutes (be careful) and then open the door and quickly look / listen to see if the fan is still spinning (it stops when you open the door). Leave the fridge off for a while until the ice disappears off the coils. Turn back on for half an hour. The coils should be icy again. Anything else call Samsung. If the deal in your country is the same as mine the fridge has a 2 year warranty but in the fine print the sealed compressor unit has five years on parts only. You could get the unit replaced for labour costs only. Check your warranty card.
Heya, There is a fault with samsung fridges that when it goes on defrost it will not start the compressor or the fans again. If you turn on the power the fridge should run for a couple of hours and then stop if so you will need to get a tech out to order a samsung yellow sensor and a fridge defrost isolation sensor. If the fridge does not work at all if you would like i will talk you a couple of little checks before calling someone out.
check you paperwork , and manual. sounds like a compressor issue, which "should" be covered by 5 year manufacture warr. reason i say "should" is hte warr's all changed jan1/06. only one year form there . but check your manual itll have the warr info in it
Thanks.
I have more info. I have removed the freezer fascia and see that it is all iced up, that is preventing airflow. So I am defrosting to re-test. I wonder why it did not defrost itself though?
I would like to look into the controller electronics, where might I get a schematic or service manual? I have not tried Samsung yet since I hear they are shitty with help. I might add I am technically oreiented so can do a lot of investigation electrically, if I have some data.
OK, have defrosted and it is chilling OK.
Possible scenario- the fault which causes a lack of re-starts of the compressor after the fridge warms up is still there, but my use of periodic resetting with a timer prevents the auto defrost from working. I have no idea when the system defrosts itself, maybe someone can offer general guidelines which most fridges follow? Until I can look at the electronics, I will continue with the timer. Maybe leaving it with no reset periods between midnight and 7am will allow a defrost cycle. I don't know but I will try this.
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