Question about Samsung Refrigerators
I have a fridge/freezer which will work for a 5-10 hours and get down to temp but then stop working ( lights on but compressor and fans off). If I switch off at mains it starts working again. Reading a few sites I have replaced the defrost heater and termostat but that has not fixed the problem. One thing I did notice is the compressor gets very hot and the side of the fridge get very warm.
I am thinking that it is going into some kind of safety shutdown and is the reason it will work again after powering off.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check for loose connections at temp control and check for bad grounds the problem is in the wiring not the parts good luck and have fun
Posted on Dec 17, 2007
SOURCE: OVERHEATING COMPRESSOR
you can check its starting components. it could be a bad capacitor or a bad start relay. if the compressor starts from cold, it could start right away but as it heats up, it should be able to start also, since after running for a few hours, the compressor will really get hot, it would stop at defrost cycle and re start again after about 30 mins. since it is still hot, if it has a defective starting components, it can not start and that is the time it would overheat.
in any case that the starting components are all ok, then you have a partially burnt compressor. it would run while cold and can not run when hot because the resistance of the wires changes as it gets hot. with this kind of problem, you need to replace the compressor. as you have said, the fan at the condenser is running. if the fan at the condenser is not running, that is also a cause for the compressor to overheats. i hope i was able to help...
Posted on Jul 05, 2008
You need to unplug the unit and check continuity with a meter across the defrost heater/s. If they are open, that's your problem. The defrost termination thermostat HAS to be below 20 degrees (varies model to model) to close. If at room temp it will read open. Doubtful it is your defrost timer.
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
the problem is going to more then likely in the main control board which is on the back of the refrigerator in a little compartment this board is bad about going out if you have power surges or outages
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
OK now I'm wondering are theses numbers your getting 4 -9 the actual temps of the refrigerator and the freezer? and do they feel this cold and correct to you? I know the refrigerator side shouldn't be below 34 or so and definitely not below 32. If this is correct and the numbers are not settings but temps. (Now if you have a touch pad its electronic. If it has knobs it has a separate defrost and thermostat and are electro-mechanical)
If electronic Your control board and possibly defrost control are out.
It would more likely be the sensors going to the board(s) It will both sensors have the possibility of causing your problem. 1 will control the run of the compressor (and this one could and probably is connected to the inside coil) and 1 will control the air damper tween the refdg and freezer compartments, and may turn on the inside fan operation too.
(this would be my first suspect if these are degrees numbers). Look at the thermostat control see if it is attached to the indoor coil (usually the tube leavign the indoor section. If its not attached its not sensing the coil temp and when goes into defrost wala its not senmsing temps like its designed to do. Look for a broken clip or possible a plastic wire tie that holds this sensor in place.
Please get back to me with what you see - find on this look up.
Posted on Mar 18, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
If there is no cooling at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. If there is no ice formation we have a big issue as the compressor and gas must be checked out. If compressor is running check the pressure, get help to test gas pressure. If not you will need to fill up ,If gas pressure is good the possibility of the compressor being inefficient is high. In such a case you must take consensus to estimate and decide, if RPM of motor is low check capacitor.
However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off. If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.
The ventilation fan that circulates the COLD air from the evaporator coils could get clogged with frost and so could be jammed. Also the wires to the fan can be worn out due to the frost. If so check if the defrost timer works to switch the heater to remove the frost. Also the check if the compressor is shut down by the timer /thermostat . If the heaters are not working, check continuity of the heaters.
So attempt to test using a multi-meter / clamp tester from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
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