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To remove the ball shell on that side you will need to turn the small round center cap counter clockwise. I usually stick two small Torx screwdrivers into two of the holes to give some leverage to turn the cap. Stick a flathead screwdriver in one of the slots of the nut holding the ball shell on to twist to remove the nut. Try to determine what is causing the resistance to the ball shell moving freely.
If you need the instructions for removal of the top plate to get to the point of the following instructions post another request as it would be too long to add in here now.
Fuel Filter replacement instructions:
After you have removed the fuel tank top plate and find the ground wire spade terminal in the slot of the fuel filter shell. Then insert the tip of a small flat blade screwdriver through the window to depress a tang, and then pull the terminal from the slot and then gently raise the locking arm and pull the U-clip from the holes in the fuel filter shell and remove the fuel filter shell from the end cap and then also remove the o-ring and filter from the fuel filter shell. To reinstall a new filter in the fuel filter shell seat a new o-ring on the counterbore at the top of the filter and then install the fuel filter shell over the end cap, so that the slot in the fuel filter shell engages the index pin on the end cap and then. Holding the parts together, slide the U-clip through the holes on the locking arm side of the fuel filter shell and push the U-clip until its endsexit the holes on the opposite side and then retract U-clip until contact is made with the step in the locking arm. When that is done route the ground wire from top plate TORX screw around the index pin side of the end cap and install the spade terminal into the slot in the fuel filter shell and gently tug on the ground wire to verify that the terminal is locked in place. If the ground terminal does not lock in place properly use a thin flat blade,(like that on a hobby knife), to bend the tang outward slightly away from the terminal body. Then reinstall the top plate.
The battery of my Casio 1846 W-71 was dead, so I tried to replace the battery by myself.
First, you need to get a hand on a CR2016 3-volts battery. It could cost you 5$ or 10$, but I got 5 of them for 1.50$ at an electronics discount store...
Get a precision screwdriver, remove the 4 screws. Be careful when you remove the cover, there's a tiny spring. Remember where it is, then remove it. Remove the watch from the shell.
Using a flat mini screwdriver, remove the cover that holds the battery. You'll need to unclip all 4 corners. There are centers to unclip too, not sure if there was 2 or 4 of them.
Remove the battery, place the new one. Clip the battery cover back, and put the watch back in the shell.
I closed the cover. The watch was showing time, buttons were working, but no sound at all. Looked on the Internet, and read that you need to short circuit it.
Look carefully, there is a label "AC" near a small hole. (Inside the hole you'll see the gray spike of a welding). Just touch something metal inside the hole (e.g. the welding spike) and then touch the positive (top) side of the battery. Put the cover back in place, press a button and listen for the beep.
The smaller spring is steel with gold plating. It goes into a hole that is near the outside diameter of the battery. You must remove the outer steel retainer to see the hole. Leave the other parts assembled. They will be loose at this point. When you look inside the hole you should see a gold bottom which is really a contact on the board. Insert the spring with the smaller diameter end into the hole. If you have the correct hole then the larger end of the spring will fit just perfectly. Assemble the outer steel retainer. Finish assembly.
Next time you replace the battery only remove the battery strap and leave the other parts intact. Good luck.
When Your head liner starts to sag or You have another nice headliner You want to use in replacing Your old liner, it is actually a good thing. Removing and installing a new one is also a easy task and does not require any form of technicality to do this. Please get these instruments(Replacement headliner fabric, Spray glue adhesive, Screwdriver, Sandpaper, Scissors) and follow the steps below:
Remove everything that bolts into the headliner like visors, lights and coat hooks. These things are normally bolted to the ceiling through the headliner, making it impossible to remove the headliner with these things in place.
Take down the old headliner. You can grab it through the dome light hole or one of the other holes now showing. Be careful not to rip or bend the headliner. Slowly move it towards the rear of the car. You may have to remove some of the molding along the sides of the headliner.
Carefully take the headliner out through a door of the car. You may have to maneuver the headliner around the seats and steering wheel to get it out of a door. Be careful not to bend the headliner.
Peel the fabric off of the shell of the headliner. It should easily come off by pulling it with your hands. Use some sandpaper to remove any foam that remains on the headliner shell.
Lay the new fabric on the headliner in the correct position. Fold half of it back so the shell is visible.
Spray the adhesive glue on the visible side of the shell and on the underside of the fabric. Allow it to set until it has dried some.
Fold the fabric over slowly onto the shell. Smooth out any wrinkles as you go. Work your way to the outer corners of the shell.
Repeat the gluing procedure for the other half of the shell and fabric. Make sure to smooth out any wrinkles so the fabric doesn't completely dry this way.
Trim the left over fabric to 1/4 of an inch long. This will be hidden behind the molding of the car.
Install the headliner using the opposite steps you took to remove it. Slide it back into place, replace the molding and then the visors, lights and coat hooks
I don't know what type of fairing you've got, so I can't address that issue - but once you get it out of the way, you first need to unscrew the tach and speedo cables from the backs of the units. If your headlight is still installed in the stock headlamp shell, remove it by unscrewing the three screws (one @12o-clock, and two others each at 4 o-clock and 8 o-clock). Now take out the two bolts on either side of the headlight shell which attach it to the chrome fork ears and push the shell down, out of the way.
There are two nuts on the bottom of the instrument cluster bracket, just to either side of the ignition switch, that attach it to the upper triple clamp. With these nuts removed, carefully unplug the large white plastic connector at the base of the ignition switch. Follow the wires that go from the instrument cluster and idiot-light assembly down into the headlight shell and unplug them. Now have a beer, you're done.
zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzfirst reach behind it and disconnect the wire. The n put you fringer in the light hole and with outward pressure turning the shell counterclockwise to unscrew the inneer shell from the outer shell They screw togrther on thre wire end. It will unscrew and worse case scenario, Yo may have to hol the outer shell . Good Luck.
To get to it , remove the food from the freezer and remove the ice maker , if equipped , and remove the 2 screws holding the freezer bottom "panel" . Remove the 2 or 3 screws holding the rear freezer panel on , and remove the panel . About in the middle , under the coils , is the drain hole . If iced up , defrost the hole with a hair dryer until visible . Hot water will help defrost the hole . When water starts to flow , use a small piece of hose , inserted into the drain , and blow thru until clear . This will remove any debris built up in the unseen drain line .
Remove the shell:
nplug the machine. Remove the end caps on both sides of the console by putting a flat screwdriver in the top of the end caps from the back and gently prying up. Remove the two Phillips screws holding the corners of the console down. Lift the console and gently fold back. Unplug the lid switch. That's the 3-wire quick disconnect below the timer. (If you have a high price model, you'll have three hoses under a plastic cover on the left. disconnect those hoses before going further.) Using a flat screwdriver remove the gold clips holding the cabinet to the back. Place the blade of the screwdriver in the indentation closest to you and tilt the handle of the screwdriver back. Open the lid. Lift and tilt the entire cabinet toward you. Look down through the hole to the front bottom edge of the cabinet. It is hooked under the front edge of the washer frame. Remove the cabinet and place it aside.
Replacing the shell:
Pick up the cabinet, hook it under the front of the frame, and tilt it back into place. Push the sides of the cabinet in as you are tilting it back to make sure the hooks in the frame (back, sides) line up with the cabinet. You can know it's in place when the edges of the cabinet line up evenly with the edges of the back. Re-install the gold clips. Hook them into the back panel, put them into the slots in the cabinet, and push down until they snap into place. Re-connect the lid switch. Lower the console. Replace the screws. Replace the end caps - bottom first, then snap them in at the top. Happy washing!