Question about RTO Atwood DSI-RV Water Heater-6 Gallon

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I have a g6a-6e heater, wasn't working so replaced solenoid valve and igniter, same as before, when i switch it on, there is spark, i can smell propane faintly, i can hear the solenoids click, about 5 or 6 seconds later spark stops and solenoids click off, no flame

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: I have a G6A-7E electronic ignite water heater.

Make sure propane is on and getting to your stove burners ok, first, then try switching it back on. If it fails to ignite, shut switch off and try a couple of times, if still no ignition, get back to me.

Posted on May 25, 2010

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motor1258
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SOURCE: Have an G6A-8E Atwood water heater. It Starts fine...

If it has the little thermal cut-off in power wire to thermostat (has a little plastic jacket over it) try removing it, and connect female spade from power wire, directly to male spade on thermostat, and see what happens. Also, make sure electrode is positioned in flame good for flame sensing properly.

Posted on May 26, 2010

  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: I have an Atwood water heater model G6A-8E. When

If this model has a thremo couple you might want to check it. It sounds like that is the problem.

Posted on Jun 07, 2010

motor1258
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SOURCE: I have a 1992 bounder mh ,6a6e atwood water

First check thermal cut-off that is connected between incoming power wire and thermostat terminal. (located inside little clear plastic sleeve) Easiest way to do that is to remove it from the circuit temporarily. Just pull it off thermostat terminal, pull it apart from other end, and just connect female spade from incoming power wire directly to thermostat terminal. Then see if water heater ignites. If it does, and all works well, get new thermal cut-off. That cut-off is a safety feature in case of flame up at burner, it will shut off gas supply. It is not reset-able, just works once then needs to be replaced.
If that doesn't cure it, take a 12v test light, or a multimeter, and test for power at gas valve, when water heater is trying to ignite, or at ECO terminal where red wire runs from left ECO terminal to gas valve. If power is getting to gas valve, and you don't hear or feel it click, make sure ground connection is sufficient as well. If you have 10.5-13.5 volts to gas valve, and it's not opening and ground is good, then it's faulty and should be replaced. If it is clicking, (opening) but no gas coming through, you may have a plugged orifice on gas valve, provided you have cleaned burner tube of any spider webs or debris previously. If no voltage from red wire, start back tracking with meter or test light to other terminal on ECO, then to terminals on thermostat as well. You'll see how feed wire (short jumper) goes from thermostat, over to ECO. Remember, you will have to hold test light or meter probe at connection and have someone turn on switch to get a reading, which will only appear when it's trying to ignite. Let me know what you find.

Posted on Dec 06, 2010

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: Atwood Water Heater G6A-7E, electronic

You are correct, there should be no flame after it shuts off. Pull the + wire off at contacts as well and see if flame remains, if it does, the gas valve is faulty (leaking by) and should be replaced.

Posted on Jul 22, 2011

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1 Answer

Need to add electric heating element and thermastate to g6a-6e gas water heater


I don't know how you can drill into aluminum tank and install element.
That seems a good way to ruin the heater.
Why not just buy small 'under counter' 1500 watt electric water heater at local box store and install in-line before the water reaches atwood gas heater.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-under-counter-water-heater.html
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Attach black on meter, or ground clamp on test light to good ground such as cooper line. Test for 12vdc at gas valve when switch turned on and you hear or see ignitor sparking. If no 12vdc, backtrack. Follow red wire from gas valve to (ECO), (both terminals,) then same to thermostat (THERM) . If you get 12vdc on one side, and 6vdc or no voltage on the other, replace it. If you've got 12vdc going to gas valve, and don't feel or hear it "Click" when trying to ignite, try a quick "rap" on valve to see if it's stuck. If valve is opening and you hear gas, but no ignition, clean burner tube good and retry.

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Need to replace G6A-6E Atwood waterheater, what replacement model can I use?


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Look at front of water heater with cover open. Black rectangular piece of foam under pressure relief valve area, has "therm" and "eco" marked in white letters. Each has 2 male spade connectors sticking out. That is your Thermostat and eco ( emergency cut off) . The ECO basically is a safeguard in case thermostat malfunctions. It is set to shut water heater down, a few degrees hotter than thermostat, just in case. Peel the foam back to expose the Thermostat & ECO, and remove circular retainer to remove either.

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I have an Atwood waterheater model # G6A-8E. I am having issues with no spark from the ignitor , I have used a long stem lighter to light the burner. It lights and burns well for a couple second seconds...


When you turn it on and hear the ignitor clicking, test for 12 volts at power wire to gas valve. If your not getting 12 VDC to gas valve when ignitor is sparking, replace module.

Jul 10, 2011 | RTO Atwood Water Heater - 6 Gal LP

1 Answer

I have an Atwood water heater model G6A-8E. When


If this model has a thremo couple you might want to check it. It sounds like that is the problem.

Jun 07, 2010 | RTO Atwood Water Heater - 6 Gal LP

1 Answer

I have a G6A-7E electronic ignite water heater.


Make sure propane is on and getting to your stove burners ok, first, then try switching it back on. If it fails to ignite, shut switch off and try a couple of times, if still no ignition, get back to me.

May 24, 2010 | RTO Atwood Water Heater - 6 Gal LP

1 Answer

Have an G6A-8E Atwood water heater. It Starts fine and shuts down after a couple of seconds. I can see the diode in the control board continue to spark after ignition I replaced the igniter.


If it has the little thermal cut-off in power wire to thermostat (has a little plastic jacket over it) try removing it, and connect female spade from power wire, directly to male spade on thermostat, and see what happens. Also, make sure electrode is positioned in flame good for flame sensing properly.

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I had a similar problem, I could hear the valve clicking and spark working, but no flame. I checked for voltage as per the previous post, and checked continuity of both coils. Both showed voltage and continuity, but the ohm reading on one coil was less than the other.

I called a rv repair shop looking to buy a new valve ($120 - ouch). He didn't have one and when I explained what I had checked, he said could be that only one valve is opening. He suggested I remove one wire from each coil, turn the heater switch on and when I hear the spark igniter, touch a wire to one of the coils at a time. If it clicks, then it's fine, if it doesn't, then it could be the coil that needs replacing or the valve is stuck. If you see a spark as you touch the wire but no clicking, then it's a stuck valve. If there's no spark, then it's most likely a defective coil. A stuck valve can sometimes be freed by tapping with a screw driver.

In my case, one valve clicked, the other didn't and no spark was seen so I had a defective coil.

The previous poster is right, replacement coils are not offered as a replacement part - but - the repair shop I talked to saves all the coils out of old heaters and I was able to buy one from him for $10.

Problem solved, heater now works!!

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