Question about Dometic Refrigerators

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I HAVE A RM3801 DOMETIC. WHEN I OPEN THE DOOR THE LIGHT AT THE TOP JUMPS FROM AC TO THE ENERGY MANAGEMENT LIGHT EVERYTHING SEEMS TO TEST OUT OK. BUT AS SOON AS THE LIGHT IN THE FRIGE COMES ON THE LIGHT ON THE BROWBOARD JUMPS. ANY SUGGESTIONS????? PLEASE THANKS COASTAL RV SERVICE IN SUMMERVILLE SC.

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Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

Sounds like you have one of "those" problems with the energy management light.

If you don't already have it the Dometic "first generation" service manual can be found here: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/AES.pdf (roughly 2.14 mb / 94 pages)

This almost sounds like there is less than 11 VDC to the control panel and it is switching to the 25 min delay mode.
(OR someone has run a different power wire to the unit bypassing the ignition switch.) <-pure speculation.


As with the first and second generation series
A.E.S. models, any time the battery voltage to
the terminal block drops to approximately 9.5
volts DC, the refrigerator will switch to a
nonthermostatically regulated gas flame to
insure the unit will still provide cooling for
the customer.
As a low battery indication, the green mode switch indicator lamp will shut completely off during the voltage drop.

Also:
The refrigerator must be connected
directly to the house battery with 2 wires of
adequate capacity to avoid a voltage drop.


There could be a temp short of the door switch to the chassis that is shorting only as the door is closed. (seen this one before)

Have you tried reading just resistance on the light switch wires to the chassis as you open and close the door?

Note that pages 64 - 66 have some very pertinent data about resistance readings.

There is a service bulletin #46 out on this unit that I do not have.

Although unrelated to this problem take a look at these manuals. They are a virtual "on line" pot of gold for RV repair people. http://bryantrv.com/docs.html

Thanks for Choosing FixYa.

Kelly

Posted on Aug 01, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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The igniter control voltages in the newer SPARK type igniters are (+) = 12VDC, (L)= high voltage lead (Spark plug voltage! I.e ruin your meter type voltage), (-)= Ground L is the lead that passes the HV spark from the control unit to the ignitor plate. The L lead should pass one heck of a hit if is workng correctly.
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