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Re: Ballast / Power board
As I mentioned this TV doesn't use ballast(s), it user CRTs and the time when you need to change one is if the picture looks out of focus of one of the colors.
You might not even need to change it, if it powers up and you can see it lighting up. These CRTs use a liquid coolant inside to keep them cool, that liquids becomes contaminated over the years and will affect the quality of the picture.
This website has a very good info on how to do it.
Why do you think you need to change the CRTs?
a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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All three LED lights flashes,u hear alot of clicking sounds too?Yes,ur tv the Ballast board is dead too.This Ballast board job is only to ignite the tv projection lamp only.Replace the Ballast board,should solve this problems.
Hi, Ballast board gets voltage from power supply connector CN90BL and volts readings are as follows: Pin-1 = 380V DC Pin-2 = Ground Pin-3 = 15V DC and output of ballast board would be 12,000 volts AC that goes to lamp to generate spark in its electrodes to produce high bright light.
If you get volts on input of ballast board but still lamp does not fire up then ballast board is not working. Ballast board part number is QAL0765-001 and available with tv-part.com for $125 Hope these info will help you. Thanks.
It looks like your ballast board is going bad, this is a common problem for DLP TV's the ballast board is the power source to the lamp and if for any reason this board does not send enough energy to the lamp it will turn off, It looks like your ballast it starting to get weak it gathers enough energy to turn on but gets weak again and turn back off you have a new lamp and it requires for the ballast to be working at it's full potential
Hello. Ballast in Sony is one of the most reliable parts, almost never goes bad. I assume you have TV unplugged from the wall outlet to reset error memory (not to mention that you have to do it anyway during ballast replacement). I hope you are using good quality lamp, because cheap substitute from E-Bay can cause same problem. Lamp and ballast works as duo and on-board diagnostic system is unable to separate them unless lamp is completely blown (in that case you will have steady "Lamp" LED blinking). You need to set TV up with back cover removed but lamp door attached (there is switch that prevent TV from working if lamp door is removed). You need to locate large 2-wire connector on ballast and make sure that it's getting about 330V DC from power supply board when you turning your TV on. If it's not there - you have power supply board problem. There should be fuse on it (not on the ballast board but power supply board - just trace those two thick wires where they coming from). That fuse could be blown by previous bad ballast shortage. Small connector on ballast have 5 pins. Some of them ground, one of them steady 5V and another trigger (turn on signal) 5V. Make sure all voltages are there. If there is no trigger 5V - you have problem with main board. In my experience 90% cases - it is very bad quality new lamp or something is just not connected (forgot to put plug all the way or something). Good luck! Russ.
340v should be on power pwb plug PL on the 1 and
5 (GND) pins for the ballast. and the ballast plug CN should also have the 340V with pin 1 of that plug being GND nd pin 3 should have the 340V If the PL plug on the power board is low the power pwb has a problem most likely the doubler circuit. If CN plug voltage is high say 360V the ballast is suspect.
Could be several things. First replace lamp.Remove lamp door and put it back on making sure tab on door presses door switch downward when closed. Can you heard spinning noise from front. Bad color wheel will cause shutdown. Look at big cap on ballast . iff swollen replace lamp, ballast and power board. Is voltage to ballast from power board below 350 volts if so replace power board. hope this helps. Most common are lamp and door switch in up position rather than downward .
I have a HNL5065W samsung that i just repair if it was the lamp you would not get sound,When Lamp goes out set will not come on only Flashing front lights, how long does yours play before cutting OFF? There is a couple of capacitors that will go bad on power board,CK to see if any of the capacitors are puffed up on top if so thats your problem.,But remember Ballast starts up LAMP CK the big capacitor on ballast board and small ones ,also Keep in mind it could be Ballast,if set keeps playing with sound and no picture another thing make sure nothing has come unpluged on DMD board, this board also will keep lamp from firing.OK heres another thing IF COLOR WHEEL is not spinning correctly lamp will not fire up, if it spins to slow or too fast most samsungs start out with Bad Color Wheel.I Buy on E-Bay got My lamp for 85.00 Ballast board 55.00 Ballast board at other companys 117.00 plus shipping! Color Wheel was 65.00.
Usually if the lamp light starts blinking and it will not fire up after the lamp is installed then that means that you still have the lamp door of and the toggle switch that detects the lamp door being off is activated and so the tv is in failsafe mode and is not turning on to protect you. If you know that you have the lamp door back on and the switch is pushed back into place as it is supposed to be then the issue is most likely your ballast. The ballast can appear to be the same symptoms as the lamp. If the lamp itself was not damaged or broken then its possible the lamp was fine all along and the ballast is bad. The ballast is the board the connects to the lamp and charges up the high voltage to fire up the lamp. If it is damaged in some way then the lamp will not fire. Just as a precaution you can test the wire connected into the ballast from the power supply board and make sure you are getting voltage. If you are getting voltage and the lamp is good and the lamp door toggle switch is not activated or the lamp temp board wire is not unplugged then you definitely have a ballast problem. Those are the only components that can cause the lamp to fire. The lamp temp board is a little board on top of the lamp housing that just has 1 small wire connected to it that is a thermometer. If that is unplugged the lamp will also not fire. So, requirements for fire lamp:
1. Power from power supply board to ballast
2. Ballast converting power out to lamp
3. Lamp door switch must be suppressed
4. Lamp temp board must be plugged in and functioning.
Ballast Verification Process
1. Short out door switch (SP001)
2. Apply AC power and wait till DM module boots
3. Press power switch and observe spark gap on ballast
4. If spark gap arcs, suspect Lamp. If color wheel starts but ballast won’t strike
lamp, go to next step.
5. Measure BP252 on AC IN CBA for +300Vdc. If missing check door switch, cable
from AC IN CBA to switch and AC IN PCB. If correct go to next step.
6. Monitor pin 2 of BT251 for Ballast ON command from Light Engine. If present
suspect Ballast. If missing suspect Light Engine. Pin 5 of BT251 starts at 3.3V
after power switch is pressed and drops to .18V when the Light Engine sends the
start command. No change on pin 5 indicates Light Engine is suspect, change
on pin 5 with no ballast start, ballast is suspect.
Note: Lamp may arc but not start. Pin 5 of BT251 is "LAMP LIT" and goes to 1.48V
when lamp is lit. If ballast strikes lamp but lamp won’t stay lit, suspect Lamp.