Question about Plumbing
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The symptoms you are describing are typical of a magnetron that has gone bad. Continuing to attempt to use the oven in its current condition can cause further damage. So, I would recommend not using it. Microwave ovens are considered dangerous and repairs should not be attempted by anyone that is not electronic saavy. The High Voltage Network inside the oven has voltage potentials of 14,000 volts and higher. If you feel this is something you wish to attempt, the Magnetron part number is 1156751 and costs approx. $158. Keep in mind, if the magnetron has been arcing and making a burning smell you may have burned the protective coating that lines the walls of the waveguide. If the waveguide is damaged it is not repairable. I do not know if this is a replaceable item on your model microwave. Double check your warranty information and/or owner's manual. In many cases the magnetron is warranted for several years beyond the limited warranty that comes with most appliances. Post back with comments and let me know if you want me to assist you further. In addition, if you provide me with your EXACT model number (located along the door opening) I can narrow down parts a little better. I know this all sounds discouraging, but I do hope I have been able to help you.
Posted on Jan 15, 2008
SOURCE: PLEASE HELP!!
I had this same "loud clicking" issue after I replaced my first toner cartridge. The magenta ran out, I ordered from a discount online store, installed it, then had the clicking problem while printing (though the print quality seemed ok). I compared the old, empty cartridge that came with the printer the new one, and found them identical except the new one had a little square transistor board on the surface that is inserted into the printer, next to the round, black thing, which I think are gears... like a little round black flywheel. I noticed the old, empty cartridge had no such board, but just a square hole instead. What was happening was this little circuit board wasn't letting me push the cartridge in far enough to allow the “flywheel” to fully connect (or at least they couldn't connect without continually disconnecting too, which was causing the loud clicking noise). So I got a little knife and pried off the circuit board, and then took out this little grey, spongy, sticky thing under it. I reinserted the cartridge and noticed it slid in just a little bit more (maybe 1/8 in. more). But then the printer didn't register I had a magenta cartridge, so it wouldn't print anything for me! So I put the spongy thing back in, then the circuit board. But when I put the circuit board back in, I pressed it in about an 1/8 in. past being flush with the plastic it was resting on before... so about 1/8 in. past where it originally was. So, now, instead of being stuck, flush with the plastic, it sort of floats on this spongy thing and goes in slightly when you push on it with your finger, creating a small, square hole like the original cartridge I examined. Perhaps this is how it's supposed to be but it had a manufacturing defect. Anyway, I reinserted it again and it slid in just a bit further than originally. It works fine. No more clicking noise while printing! So obviously the little black gears are now firmly in place. Hope this helps.
Posted on Feb 29, 2008
Most base board heaters installation instructions say to attach to the wall with screws which are slack ( not fully tightened) in order to allow the heater case to expand and contract otherwise you get a clicking noise
Posted on Oct 31, 2008
If it makes the clunk or banging noise when the compressor is shutting off, then yes, internal spring or springs inside the compressor have broken.
Only solution to that problem is a new compressor.
P.S. these things can run a long time with this condition, but ultimately .....
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Posted on Dec 25, 2009
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Hi. Loud clicking noises from the rear wheels are usually caused by movement of the square steel key that fits into a groove on the axle inside the wheel hub. This is what drives the wheels.
You will probably get a click for each revolution of the wheels.
To fix it, remove the rear wheels and wipe a thin smear of grease on the key and axle, then replace the wheels.
The grease will allow the key to move slightly without making a noise, and help stop it from wearing.
It sometimes helps to also remove the front wheels, and wipe a thin smear of grease onto the front stub axles. There is no key in the front hubs, but the grease helps to prevent the bearings siezing on to the axles.
Good luck. Neil.
Posted on Jun 25, 2010
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