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No oil seems to be getting to the chain

Saw runs & cuts but chain isnt lubricated. no oil seems to be getting to the chain

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There is a blockage from the oil reservoir to the chain.

Posted on Jul 30, 2010

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What are the steps to getting the chain saw started and idling? What are next steps to cut tree limbs and oil the chain? This chain saw was given to me without a manual.


If you are a complete novice you should seek some training before attempting to use the machine, as you do not say what model this is we will go through basic starting procedures, fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel mixed with two stroke oil at 25-1, fill the chain oil tank with a non fling chain oil, switch the ignition switch to on, pull the choke fully out, push in the deco valve if fitted, place the machine on the ground, with the tip of the bar away from any obstructions, put your right foot through the back handle to hold the saw down, place your straightened left arm and hand onto the top handle again to hold the machine, now with your right hand crank the engine until it fires once, at this point push the choke fully back in, crank the engine once again until it fires up, flick the trigger to dissengage the part throttle , the machine should now idle.
Be carefull.

Jun 05, 2011 | Poulan Garden

1 Answer

INQUIRY: I HAVE A MCCULLUCH PROMAC 555.....20'' SAW.....NEED TO KNOW THE OIL <> GAS MIX RATIO....need info A.S.A.P....THANX....manobogies@q.com


Run it on a 25-1 fuel oil mix with good quaility two stroke oil, use a non fling chain oil in the chain oil tank to lubricate the cutting chain

Apr 11, 2011 | Garden

3 Answers

The saw is a 385xp. We have changed bars and chains numerous times. When sawing the bar gets hot enough to fry an egg and the chain stretches out. Onlynable to saw a minute or teo at the time. bar gets...


Overheating the chain/bar is usually caused by insufficient oil getting to the chain, but can be caused by the chain being too tight to begin with (you should be able to turn the chain by hand), grit in the chain groove, or a poorly sharpened chain. The saw has an oil volume adjustment screw on the lower part of the case near the chain return area. Turning it CCW should increase oil flow. Oil volume can be judged by running the saw tip at speed near some cardboard for a moment--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Chain sharpening condition can be judged by the sawdust residue coming from the cut--if a powder-like material, the teeth are not sharp or are improperly filed. You should not have to bear down excessively on the saw to make it cut quickly. Hope some of this helps!

Jan 09, 2011 | Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp

1 Answer

After 10 mins cutting small logs the chain becomes lose and i have to re adjust


If the chain is quite dull, the increased force required to make a cut will overheat the chain causing it to stretch. So will reduced lubrication to the bar and chain. Run the saw at speed with the bar tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil. If it seems to be stingy with the oil, remove the bar and chain (release the chain brake first) and run the engine for a bit to see if the side port in the engine oozes oil out. If ok, clean the two small oil passages that run from the large holes out to the chain groove on each edge. When re-assembling, adjust the chain just up to the bar, but not so tight that you can't turn it by hand. Hope this helps!

Nov 14, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

Can't seem to get my oiler to work properly. oil emerges when i run the saw with the bar removed, but chain is dry and hot when run put together.


Some saw manufactures design their oilers to only work with their bars. Are you running the mfg suggested or stock bar? Chain? Stihl Chain is designed to use 30% less oil because of oil groves cut into each drive link directed to the rivets. So if your running an aftermarket bar/chain, the oiling ports may not line up. Especially if it oils with no bar & chain

Oct 09, 2010 | Husqvarna Chain Saw 20" Bar

1 Answer

Is there a satisfactory substitute for "bar & chain" oil?


No. Bar & chain oil is made so it will stick to the chain and lubricate and it can deal with the heat generated by the chain. It's also thick enough so it won't run freely out of your saw. It doesn't really make any difference who makes it, just that it's bar & chain oil.

Sep 30, 2010 | Do It Best Bar And Chain Oil

1 Answer

Need service manual for Homelite 16'' electric chain saw model UT 41320. Motor runs but chain stopped in middle of second cut.


chain is too tight on the bar or is lacking lubrication oil. loosen up the bar nuts and back off the chain tensioning screw a touch. make sure the bar oil reservoir is full and the chain is receiving oil when its running.

Oct 20, 2009 | Homelite Garden

1 Answer

My chain saw (14 inch gas powered) would not


Modern chainsaws have the ability to run without turning the chain via the chain-brake. To set the brake the uppermost handle is pushed forward (toward the chain) and a firm snap should be heard and felt. To release the brake you pull the same handle back (towards the engine) and get the same "snap".
Concerning oil leakage: Bar/chain lube collects on the inside of the clutch cover and the sawdust mixes with it as you saw. A surprising amount of oil gets absorbed in the sawdust and later seeps back out when the saw is at rest. If the level of oil in the tank noticably drops after sitting overnight you may have a leak...otherwise it's normal.
As for a running chain that wont cut, it is common for chains to be installed backward and the unit still function perfectly (it just won't cut wood). See the proper chain orientation here. In this photo the chain travel is from left to right.

Sep 26, 2009 | Homelite Consumer Products 9.0 Amp, 14 In....

2 Answers

The chain keeps jumping off of my saw when I start it up. I've tried many times to keep the tension on and when I start it up, it jumps off again. What am I doing wrong? I followed the manual and it still...


With the saw not running rotate the chain by hand (gloves encouraged). You may have a burr on a drive link or some links that can't rotate. When they meet the sprocket or nose the chain jumps.
You might try a new chain.
If you extend the drive links beyond the cutting side a flat file can be used to remove burrs from the drive links,

Chain adjustment
  1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
  2. If necessary, loosen the nuts that are clamping the guide bar in place (or whatever your saw uses to hold the side plate and bar on with). We don't need these really loose - just finger tight will do.
  3. Ease the tension until the chain is obviously loose.
  4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
  5. Now, while holding the nose up, adjust the tension so that the chain just touches the underside of the bar. Then tighten slightly more (1/8 turn on screw).
  6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the side plate nuts / bolts / quick-release system.
HTH
Lou

Sep 13, 2009 | Poulan Garden

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