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1: Make sure the exposure compensation dial (on the top left of the camera) is set to 0. You may be inadvertently moving the dial, which changes the exposure brighter or dimmer than what the camera thinks it should be. 2: If the auto exposure is set to center spot, then the camera will expose for the light at the center of the frame. So if there is a bright area in the center (a white shirt for instance) the camera will lower the exposure and the photo will be mostly dark. The opposite occurs if the center of the picture is a dark object.
3: Be sure not to block the light sensor on the front of the camera with your finger of camera strap.
4: Link to download the manual, in case you don't have it. http://support-sg.canon-asia.com/contents/SG/EN/0300419101.html
If the red light is steady on the minus sign even if you vary shutter and aperture settings and point the camera at different light exposures, then this is a metering problem. If the red light on the minus sign turns off when you have correct or over exposure, then it would mean your indicator lights for o and + are busted. Have your metering checked by a competent camera technician. In any case, since your camera is fully manual, you can use the 'sunny 16' rule and still shoot away.
There is nothing wrong with your camera. You nailed the explanation....your meter thinks there is plenty of light and cuts down the exposure. Two ways to do this:
1. Point your camera toward the part you want properly exposed and press the exposure lock button. Then, recompose, focus and shoot.
2.Press the exposure compensation button and set a lower number.
Do not confuse dark pictures with black pictures.
1. Flash Range 2. Exposure Compensation 3. Monitor Calibration (low monitor brightness) 4. Obstructed or covered flash 5. Obstructed or covered light sensor (only on certain models) 6. Flash not firing
. NOTE: A normal sunny outdoor scene is a good way to test the exposure metering of the camera.
If the red - lights up, you're underexposed. If the red + lights up, you're overexposed. If the green circle lights up, you're right on. If both the red and green light up, you're within one-third stop of the right exposure.
If you don't see either the green or red lights, then you need batteries. The camera uses two LR44 alkalines or two SR44 silver-oxides. But the only thing that uses the batteries is the exposure meter: everything else on the camera is stil fully functional.
Yes, the Pentax ME Super has a built-in light meter. It is used by the ME Super in order to determine the correct exposure settings when the camera is used in the "A" (Autoexposure) & "AV" (Aperture-priority) exposure modes.
I don't mean to insult you, but have you tried new batteries?
Sometimes the meter fails when the batteries don't have enough juice.
Your camera light meter uses the concept of multi-spot exposure metering, which is sensitive to subtle differences in scene composition. To determine the overall shutter speed for a scene, the meter takes readings from three zones within the frame. With Portrait orientations, the zones remain in the same place (vertical) on the CCD imager. With landscape orientations, however, the zones are more spread out (horizontal) and the dominant (2 dark and 1 light or 2 light and 1 dark) zones determine the shutter speed. This may cause some areas of the picture to be overexposed or underexposed.