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No power on heating plates or switches - Brewmatic Diplomat VI Coffee Maker

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  • popwells Jul 29, 2010

    no, power cord is in good shape

  • popwells Jul 29, 2010

    it is plugged in/has proper power

  • popwells Jul 29, 2010

    has proper power

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Check if everything is plugged in properly.

Here's a manual of parts in case you need one: http://www.pamasco.com/Service_Manual_Diplomat_VI.pdf

...

Posted on Jul 29, 2010

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Hi there,

Well first of all you can check out the followings -
Test the thermostat. Replace it if necessary.
Reset or replace the primary hi-limit thermostat.
Test the thermostat sensor. Replace it if necessary.
Test the immersion element. Replace it if necessary.
Check to make sure the internal wiring is correct. Inspect for loose, damaged or overheating wires or terminals.
Repair or replace wiring as necessary.

If further you have the same problem then please follow the below manual to correct the problem (if you have any problem regarding then please post back to us and describe the problem in details)

http://www.pamasco.com/Service_Manual_Diplomat_VI_1033054_1033058_1033044_1033055_1033059_1033049.pdf

(Please accept the solution if it helps)
Good Luck!!

Thanks

Posted on Jul 29, 2010

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1 Answer

My blower motor does not work how can I chech for the problem


Hi, first check fuse. Then use a 12 volts test light to see if power is getting to the blower. Turn the key on, turn the switch on, take the connector off the blower, and connect the test light to the connector. If there is power, replace the blower. If no power there, next access the resistor as follows and inspect it for heat damage:

  1. Remove the rear sight shield.
  2. Remove the fuse/relay block assembly and bracket.
  3. Disconnect the resistor module connector.
  4. Remove the retaining screws and remove the resistor module.

With the connector off the resistor, connect your test light clip to ground and probe the resistor connector terminals for power. If there is no power there with the key and switch on, the problem is the switch. That said, the switch can cause the resistor to fail; so if the resistor has heat damage, replace it as well.

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To replace the switch,
  1. pry out the lower instrument panel trim plates and unsnap the air vent deflectors. Then remove the glove box and large trim plate.
  2. Remove the control panel retaining screws, pull the climate control panel out, label and disconnect all connections and cables, then remove.
Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

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PGB030075-1 Led light is blinking 4 quick blinks. blows out cold air. What does this mean?


4 blinks indicates a failure at the high limit switch. This switch is usually located on the heat exchanger face plate and has two wires going to it. Usually it fails because the furnace has over heated. The most common reasons are a plugged filter or coil that is limiting the airflow over the heat exchanger. Turn off the power to the furnace, replace the filter, clean any coils in the plenum and verify that all the vents in the home are open. Then turn the power back on and see if it is fixed. :)
If the above solution does not fix the problem, the limit switch itself may be bad from excessive heat. Replace it with a new one. Good Luck!

Dec 28, 2010 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

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4 Plate stove (hob), when switching on one of the plates it keeps tripping all the power. I have replaced the switch however problem persists. Secondly remaining 3 plates only seem to reach a low...


I would suggest you replace the hotplate that keeps tripping the supply, this hopefully will solve the prob you are experiencing with the other plates.

Sep 23, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

What is a common problem associated with desktop computers?


Number 1.

Power Supply failure.

TOP problem.

Also a Power Supply failing, can emulate issues that seem software related.
Doubt that your computer professor will know this, however.

(Can also be a bad Power On switch. The diagnosis should include testing both the Power On switch, and the Power Supply, by bypassing the Power On switch.

This is done with a jumper wire on the Soft Power On wire, {PS_ON. Green in color}, to ANY Ground wire, (Black in color), in the ATX {20 or 24-pin} main power cable connector.

Example of 24-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

Bypassing the Power On switch turns the Power Supply on?
Problem is a bad Power On switch.
Bypassing the Power On switch does Not turn the Power Supply on?
Problem is a bad Power Supply)

Number 2 most rated problem, is the computer is dirty inside, as well as the inside of the Power Supply.

Most users are seemingly not aware, that the inside of a computer should be cleaned on a regular basis as needed.

Many may be timid in cleaning the inside of their computer.

Computer unplugged from power, Anti-Static Precautions observed, a can or two of compressed air for computers, could easily eliminate this problem.

Heatsink for the Processor is coated with 'Gunk'?
The Processor overheats, and BIOS turns the Processor off.

Same thing with the fan used to cool the Processor.
Whether it is a fan mounted directly on top of the Heatsink, or a computer case fan pushing air through a plastic shroud to the Heatsink.

Power Supply, (SMPS), cooling components.
This is the internal fan mounted at the back of the Power Supply's case, and the Heatsink's used inside the Power Supply.

[Basic construction of a Heatsink, is a plate of metal with tall, thin fins protruding from it.

The plate of metal absorbs heat from whatever object it is placed against, (Via a thin layer of thermal paste), and the fins absorb the heat from the plate.

The fins then radiate the heat away.
If a fan is used in conjunction with a Heatsink, the flow of air from the fan helps to dissipate heat away from the fins.
(Such examples would be a Processor's heatsink, and the heatsink's used in a Power Supply)

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1 Answer

Westinghouse silhouette frost free 522 fridge is not cooling properly top and bottom.freezer fan is still working,and the motor at the bottom in the back of fridge stay's constantly running and has done...


The heating element, located behind the back plate of the freezer, is probably not working. A failed heating element leads to a build up of ice around the evaporator coils in the rear of the freezer. If the back plate of the freezer is removed (ONLY DO THIS WITH THE APPLIANCE UNPLUGGED FROM THE POWER SUPPLY) and there is a large build up of ice around the evaporator coils then it's a fairly good indication that the heating element is not working. The heating element comes on periodically to defrost/de-ice the evaporator coils. Heating element is often activated by a small timer switch which turns the heater on for a set time every 24 hrs or so. Heating element may be open circuit or timer switch may not be operating. Most likely to be open circuit heating element.

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1 Answer

Top plate does not get hot, bottom plate is ok


The element could have a very fine crack in it, not readily visible. You must use a voltmeter to test if the element is getting power when the switch is turned on. If it is getting power, then the element is bad. If no power, then test the switch to see if it is sending power when turned on.

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2 Answers

FDD8 sandwich maker will not heat up


The purpose of the button is to shut off the power to the heating coil when there is no cooking plate in place. It appears by your tests that the button (switch) has failed. You can jumper around the switch to verify that this is the case. If the heating coil gets hot with the jumper in place, then you need to replace the switch (button). If it does not get hot, then either the heating coil has a bad connection to the wiring. the coil is actually bad and needs to be replaced or there is a break in the neutral circuit somewhere. Did you do a continuity check on the neutral side of the circuit? There should also be a thermostat (tempurature control) and a thermofuse in the circuit that you should also check for continuity.

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Indesit PI 640


i find your problem is short of desame line that why it remained lighting,try to hang the connection to that light,try to find it one by one , the principle of the lighting here is like in the rice cooker when warm the light is yellow when cook it turn to red when you going to see it ,it is one connection only.there is a thermal plate ,when it sense extreme heat it will move that to switch off ,,then when it warm its switch on. maybe there is short to thermal plate or the thermal plate not working even extreme heat it will not shrink...try to find this plate .if my solution help you to understand the problem please rate me FIXYA...
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2 Answers

Using a thermal pot


I also bought the thermal carafe; before I could hack the warming plate, my wife set the "Auto Off" feature to 1 minute, which shuts off the carafe heater. The settings are preserved unless you lose power for an extended period.

The warmer does still warm through the brewing cycle but it doesn't overheat the carafe (IMO.) Hope this helps.

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