The PCG-K37 (Sony VAIO Laptop) uses a DC Jack soldered to a two-wire jacketed (shielding) cable that is routed under the DVD (tray) and towards the back to the Voltage Board located under the Touch Pad (Mouse) via a white polarized plug. The wires are color-coded Red (+) and Black (-); a third black wire is NOT attached to the DC Plug, but is used as a grounding wire for the Voltage Board to the LCD Hinge MOUNT only. Remove the battery and DC plug (AC Adaptor Wire) from the laptop first, before going any further.) To access the DC Plug requires removing the Keyboard Hood (houses the stereo speakers & power button) carefully by prying up from where the F-Keys (top row) are. There are four (4) slots: above the "Delete Key," and "F10" and "F4" and "ESC Key," and you will have to press these keys to see the pry slots for a thin blade screw driver to fit. The "Hood" pops up gently and is connected by a thin strip "Wire Cable" through the aluminum keyboard shield down to the motherboard. The "Wire Strip" cable is held in place on the Power Button Board by a sliding pressure retainer (Tan in Color) - it slides away (approx 1/8 of an inch) from the circuit board to let go of the cable. (To re-attach: make sure the retainer clip (Tan in Color) is up before sliding in the wire cable strip and push the retainer back in by applying pressure on both ends to seat it.) With the Keyboard Hood out of the way; remove the keyboard (3 screws only) and set the screws aside. The keyboard swings toward you and the wire connector cable for the keyboard is attached to the motherboard the same way the Hood is connected - a larger pressure retainer clip. With the keyboard out of the way; the aluminum shield must be removed. There are ten (10) screws holding this shield down, so please note which "length" screw goes where is should because putting the longer screw in the wrong place may damage something when it bottoms out. Next is removing the laptop Palm Rest (it contains the touch pad) and there are two screws easily missed near the touch pad on top; the rest of the screws are accessable when you close the lid (LCD) and flip the laptop up-side-down. Unscrew each screw one at a time and flip the laptop over to drop out each screw individually to catch them in your hand. Look for the tiny arrows to locate the screws and don't forget to lift up the battery door to get to the two (2) tiny screws, too. There should be a total of thirteen (13) of these screws and again please note the difference in lengths and where they go. Once you have all screws accounted for; set the laptop right-side-up and lift open the lid (LCD) carefully because the latch catch is hooked. (Slide the latch hook to open.) With the Lid open, you will see a thinner wire cable (white) attached to another pressure clip - it's the touch pad cable attached to the Voltage Board; release it just like you did with the keyboard cable and you can start lifting the Palm Rest up and away from the laptop case to expose the motherboard. At this point, you can see the DC Jack in the back right side corner. To get more room to manuver around, you may remove the DVD by opening the Hard Drive Bay Door and removing the two (2) tiny, short screws near the bottom of the hard drive (no need to remove the HD). The DVD slides out. Looking again on top of the motherboard, you will see a glide rail for the DVD and a metal shield covering the DC cable; remove the screws carefully and note the lengths again for proper placement. The next trick is to only move one LCD hinge out of the way, so it is important to secure the LCD in a way so that the one remaining hinge is NOT DAMAGED during this repair process. There are three (3) screws holding the hinge to the laptop case and that third screw in in the back of the laptop between the DC Jack and the modem's phone (RJ-11) jack. There is a hold-down bracket to secure the modem jack and the DC Jack; only one screw keeps it there. After getting the hold-down bracket out of the way; the DC Jack slides up and out. Remember how the DC Jack was positioned because putting it back in up-side-down makes it hard to plug the AC Adaptor in for laptop use on AC power. Use heat-shrink tubing and your insulators and avoid using electrical tape after soldering the two wires onto the new DC Jack. Also remember that the RED WIRE is soldered to the Center Post connector. Reverse the disassembly listed above to re-assemble. If you think this was tough, now you know why Technicians charge a minimum of $99 to do this job. But at least you now know that the DC Jack is NOT attached to the motherboard and the motherboard does not require complete removal just to get to the worn-out DC Jack. And YES!; DC Jack do wear out because the Adaptor plug is pulled on sooooo many times that the DC Jack take the abuse more than the plug does; and that's because there is more stability built into the plug than the DC Jack. One additional note: the Keyboard Hood connector cable is usually the first thing people damage accidently by folding the crease too many times. Wires inside this "tape" will break just like bending and twisting solid thicker wires will break. The replacement part is found on the Sony Parts Website for about $10 plus S&H. You will know you need it replaced when you can not seem to keep the laptop "ON" or the HD & Power lights fail to glow or you still can not get power to recharge the battery. The circuits for these functions run through that flat tape wire cable to the Keyboard Hood. Good Luck! (I say that because it will take up your entire evening, take up your entire dining room table, and wear thin the nerves of your spouse who will be very concerned about that table you are using to venture on!) Oh, and one more thing... Unplug the telephone as distractions should be avoided until you finish putting everything back together (or you WILL forget things).
Nov 15, 2007 |
Sony PCGK37 Notebook