We are trying to decide between fixing our broken washer or just springing for a new front loader instead. We have had our washer for just over a year......the purchase date was July 7th and we noticed on July 24th that the basket wasn't spinning for the spin cycle. We had a repair man out who said that the motor switch is bad and that you can't buy the motor switch without buying a new motor also. Now we are debating between spending the $250 + to get it fixed and still not have a warranty on anything else if it goes wrong or spending the money for a new front loader with a warranty. Any suggestions?
Thank you, Jill
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I would suspect one of these: 1. One of the two springs that hold tub is broken or detached 2. One of the three shock absorbers is faulty or disconnected. 3. Spider that holds tub in place is broken 4. Bearings are worn/bad.
If it is a top loader you will need to raise the top lid. There should be two spring catches in the front joint about 3 inches in from each side. The springs need to be pushed in to release the catch. with a screwdriver or perhaps table knife or with another thin blade tool. Once the lid is raised you should have access to the problem device. It's possible it has become bent or misaligned. or wire connection apart or badly corroded. Electrical connections need to be cleaned to bright metal. Otherwise, replace the broken device and or switch.
The usual method of accessing the belt is to remove the entire fron panel (including door). It is usually easy to remove the panel by removing a couple of screws at the top and pulling up and out on the panel. The belt can be reached from the front. All dryer belts have a spring loaded tensioner on the belt. Check the tensioner as belts hardly ever come off unless the tensioner spring breaks.
Is your washer a front loader because if it is then one possible solution is by putting less close. I have a front loader and when I put 8 blue jeans along with some other close. The spin cycle is violent and by removing 4 jeans, the cycle spins better and it end up balancing its self. Usually jeans soak up a lot of water, so try to put in lee close and less heavy close.
If this does not help then you might have a problem with the damper shocks (leaking) or springs (broken) if it a front loader washer.
Just get the model number of your machine and buy a new one, you cannot fix it by trying to assemble again, spring had pressure, it may hurt you if you try to fix it, It is much advisableto replace it with new one
Look up the model unit and compare it to the models appear on countless Google search pages. I had a set that bought new after the introduction and what became a PR nighmare for Maytag as they tried to ignore the problem. I was unaware of any problems since there was never a recall just at the very end when they offered to take the nice looking front loader in exchange for a new regular top loader. Mistake number 2. My washer started to get a bad smell and being single and doing maybe three loads a week. Then the washer drum started retaining water, not inside, but surrounding. The only way I discovered is while cleaning I turned the drum. Depending on who you asked, even some Maytag salesmen as well as the folks at the big home improvement stores and it was said to be the "oil" that lubercates the drum, water that was needed to turn the drum and a couple referenced this whole manufacturing defeact that could not be fixed. I decided I would stick with the oil or water concept becasue it made sense. One evening, I Googled. I was sick. It would only get worse and to contact Maytag, was a joke. Instead of waiting for the day to come, I listed the dryer for sale with the washer free. I disclosed everything and I could have sold a100 sets. The lady who bought the set for $650 was putting it to a flip/rehab project. I hope you are not the one who bought her property -- she wasn't planning to go into detail with the future buyer,
Your problem may not be a broken spider assembly. My Kenmore Elite (model # 110-42822-203) had a kocking problem as well. After taking the back off, I discovered that the nut holding the pulley to the drum shaft (on the outside of the outer basket) was slightly loose. I simply re-tightened this an the knock went away. The pulley was shifting on the shaft ever so slightly, leading to the knock. Cost of fix: $0. :-).