Question about Makita 10" Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw

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When I pull down on the handle to make a cut the handle binds as if the spring may be weak or something. If the blade guide does not return fully there is no problem. Can you help me with what info I have provided? Thanks John.

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We had a problem with our saw not working right, we found out the guard went down to far and locked it self, we took a wire tie and put it around where the guard hits and it worked fine, you should be able to do something like that. Check it out.

Posted on Jul 29, 2010


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I have a bosch jigsaw and the blade keeps slipping out of the roller blade guide after it runs normal for a few seconds. ive reset the blade and changed it.

Hi Rebecca, I hope this helps;
Set the blade orbit selector lever to position III.
Push blade change button downward as far as
it will go and turn the top handle three turns
counterclockwise (viewed from the top of the
Insert the blade into blade plunger at a 90°
angle to the cutting direction. With a slight
upward pressure, turn the blade teeth forward
(direction of cut) and guide the back of the
blade into the groove in the center of blade
roller guide. Pull gently down on the blade to
seat the blade tabs in the plunger.
With the blade in the proper position, turn top
handle clockwise until a noticeable "Click" sound
is heard, indicating that the blade is locked in
Push blade change button upward to its
original position (flush with the top of the top
handle), and the saw is ready for use.
Removing the blade is essentially the reverse
of the installation procedure, however, take
note that once the blade change button is
loosened, gently push the blade upward to
release the blade tabs from the plunger.

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Two things can cause this, The valve is not closing fully, valve stem binding on valve guide or weak return spring, or the valve or valve seat is worn and not making a good seal.

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Why does my onity ht24 lock not open when the handle is pushed down? it always works when the handle is lifted up but almost never when the handle is pushed down.

The lever return spring might be weak or broken. Lift the lever slightly and then push down. If it opens, that's the problem. If it still won't open, something else might be broken or badly worn. The handle is pushed down far more often than it's pulled up.

Apr 29, 2014 | Locks & Locksmithing

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I have a 1997 nissan pathfinder 3.3 with automatic transmission. often (not consistently) when warm, I put the car into "park" and it will idle at 1100-1400 rpm. I'm unsure of the problem and need help....

Basics first - check the throttle pedal and the cable and any linkage is not binding and is fully returning, that any return springs are in good order and not weak or worn and that any cable or linkage has sufficient free play to allow all parts of it to fully return.

There is often a small hydraulic damper fitted to prevent the engine speed falling too rapidly and sometimes these become too stiff for the return spring.

Whether your vehicle has an idle control valve depends on the type of injection system fitted...

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I have a 17 HP 42" craftsman mower. When I disengage the blade lever, the blades do not fully disengage until I slow down the engine with the throttle lever. This has only begun recently. The tractor...

There are blade brakes, one on each blade pulley. You will need to check that the brakes are in good working order and that the springs holding them against the pulleys are in place. Also there is a spring to return the idler pulley to the neutral position. The spring could be broken or the idler pivot rusted not allowing it to return to fully neutral position. This should get you going down the right track. Hope this helps; please vote yes. Thank you.

Nov 21, 2010 | Craftsman 42 in. Deck 19.5hp Lawn Tractor

1 Answer

I'm a wife with a do-it-yourself knack. I recently purchased a Ryobi 10 in. BTS211 table saw. I find the manual complicated as far as how to actually use the device. Can you recommend where I can get...

I am a retired contractor.
I have a shop with a 10" table saw.
And I have opinions about safe operation.

For safety, turn saw off when making adjustments.

1) Raise blade:
There is a handle you turn to raise the blade.
If you are cutting 1/2" plywood, then set your blade at 3/4" or a bit more.
Keep blade low and away from hands.
Keep hands high and away from blade.

For 1-1/2" thick 2x4, I usually set the saw at 1" and run the board through, and then flip the board over and run it through again, taking 2 passes to make really thick cuts.


2) Blade angle
There is a second handle you turn to set blade at an angle up to 45 degrees
Angle cannot be set if saw blade is fully raised >> lower blade to half way or less and experiment.
Angle cuts are difficult if wood is not perfectly flat and square, or too long or too short (boy is that helpful ... but cutting angles takes some experimentation)

3) Table Guide
You stand behind power saw to operate
The saw table guide is on left side of blade and clamps across the table
The guide markings show inches >>> these are usually approximate
To set guide for accuracy, measure distance from blade to saw guide, and then clamp guide down.

4) Push sticks push sticks push sticks and other safety stuff
Let me emphasize safety first last and always
A table saw will chop your fingers off in a blink
On the plus side, I hear it doesn't hurt. But OMG.
There is a very strong human instinct to reach in with your hand when working on stuff
Train your mind >> if the saw is running, do not lean or reach into the saw
If a board is stuck >>> turn off the saw and wait for full stop
If you wear baggy clothes of a loose shirt, the saw will grab you and pull you in too fast for you to react
Keep your clothes tight and your arms bare

Always use push sticks or push boards::
Notice the saw blade is set low
Two push sticks are used to assist when cutting short board > one stick holds down the board ahead of blade, the other stick is pushing board through saw.
Keep your hands away from the blade no matter what.
The person stands behind and to the side of the board being cut.
The cut wood is supported by a catch table (in this case there are rollers)

Where to stand
Obviously you stand behind the saw to cut wood, and sometimes with long pieces, you can move in front and pull them through, and sometimes with large plywood you stand kinda back and to the side.

Why not stand directly behind a saw? Because saws throw stuff back.
When 'ripping' a board lengthwise as shown in photo above, if the saw catches the board just right, it will throw it backwards like a spear.

If a board 'binds' the saw causing saw blade to stop, then turn off saw, back up the board, and cut again.

Crosscut guide
The saw comes with a T-shaped guide that fits into a groove.
This is a 'push stick' >>> you use it to cross cut a board, and it lets you stand to the side of the saw blade so things wont flip back on you
When using the cross cut guide, remove the table guide that clamps across the saw, or push the table guide WAY back so pieces don't get caught in a bind and the blade flips up the piece and hits you in the face
Remember, the saw throws everything backwards

The saw is strong and fast, and you are best when traveling slow and without rush around your strong friend.

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1 Answer

How do I disassemble a craftsman 10 amp reciprocating saw?

To remove the front half of the saw:

1. Remove the two screws that hold the guide shoe
2. Pull and wiggle the guide shoe straight forward and out.
3. Remove the metal support from the front of the rubber boot by prying it out of the groove.
4. Using a pick or a very small screwdriver, pry the retaining pin from the blade release handle and remove from the front. It removes without much friction.
5. Remove the blade release handle through the side of the saw by wiggling and releasing the return spring.
6. Remove the rubber boot off the front of the saw by gently prying near the center of the saw and firmly pulling.
7. Remove the six screws to remove the black plastic dust cover.
8. Remove the remaining two screws and lift the grease guard to access the reciprocating mechanism, being careful not to drop the needle-bearings. This area can be packed with grease.

The handle part of the saw is self explanatory.

Dec 26, 2009 | Saws

1 Answer

I have problems with my felco #4 pruners after I change the blade. Once I put it back together and tighten the lock nut, the pruners will stick in a closed position after a 5 cuts. I then have to pull it...

How old are they? If the spring in between the handles is old it won't spring back as well. Usually the only time I've ever had a problem with the blades sticking was when I had bent the arms to the blade. Felco's are indestructible, I know, but sometimes you can get a little to over zealous and use them for something they're not designed to do and you wind up bending them. Look down the arms and find out which one seems a little out of kilter and give it a gentle bend until it's back in shape. Do it too much and you'll wonder why they can't get a clean cut. DON'T FORGET TO RATE THE ANSWER.

Aug 28, 2009 | Garden

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