Question about GE Microwave Ovens

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Micrwave will not heat I replaced megatron and diode also turn table will not turn

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  • sanooyen Aug 01, 2010

    After a few different ideas yes it was helpful --I wish I would have come here first --it would have saved me more money than trying this on my own.

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  • GE Master
  • 2,605 Answers

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Sorry to hear you`ve already replaced those parts...unfortunately to no avail and likely unnecessary based on your description, I`d say you`ve got a faulty cavity temp. cut-out failure.

If it fails the turntable will stop nor will the unit heat...exactly what you`ve described. They vary from model to model so I don`t want to generalize.

Can you provide the model number of your particular microwave.

I`ll watch for your next post/reply.

macmarkus :)

Posted on Jul 29, 2010

  • 15 more comments 
  • sanooyen Jul 29, 2010

    GE Model JVM1730DM1BB

  • sanooyen Jul 29, 2010

    GE MODEL JVM1730DM1BB

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Jul 29, 2010

    Hi again, thanks for providing the model number.



    This unit is full of hi-limit cut-outs. ( I assume you checked the obvious one on the magnetron...right ? )



    That being said, it needs to be determined which one is which and since I don`t have a diagram in front of me, I`ll start by directing you to "searspartsdirect.com" and in the space to enter the model number ONLY enter the JVM1703.



    This will bring up a list of model`s where you can identify yours by exact numbers/characters.



    Now open up the illustration and with your wiring diagram ( inside the unit behind the control panel...usually ) you can identify which thermostat`s should be in the "open" position and which one`s should be in the "closed" position.



    Depending on which one you identify as open or closed when it should be the opposite should allow you to test the unit by either "jumping" it our or "opening" the circuit.



    Let me know if this is helpful to you...you should only need a multi-meter to check the thermostat`s and it likely will be the one of either up top of the cavity or the one on the base behind the control.



    I`ll watch to see what you find. Good luck.





    macmarkus :)

  • sanooyen Jul 30, 2010

    i found the wiring diagram in the microwave --I believe I tested all T.C.O`s it has 4 and it looks like to me they are all good???? what next ??

  • sanooyen Jul 30, 2010

    As before when I push time to cook ----light comes on times starts to count down I can hear a click but the table will not start and it doesnt start to heat

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Jul 30, 2010

    Hello,

    That is very unusual. I have to ask so please don't take it the wrong way. You checked all these with at least one wire off the tco's right ? Also one or more of those should be "normally open" according to the tech sheet...or no ?

    If so, I'd be checking the secondary door switches ( if it where the primary the fuse would blow ) as they too can cause those symptoms, just less common in my experience. The tech sheet should tell you the "state" they should be in as well and you will need to check for continuity only.

    Let me know what you find.

    macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Jul 30, 2010

    P.S.

    Do you what year you purchased the microwave ? Approximate age ?

  • sanooyen Jul 30, 2010

    I did not remove a wire on all --they are all normally closed except for the hood TCO which is normally open --dont worry about hurting my feelings im new to this I went to school for electronic but 14 years ago

  • sanooyen Jul 30, 2010

    purchased in 2007

  • sanooyen Jul 30, 2010

    I did what you said just pull one wire and check it --when I tested the cavity TOC it worked for a couple of seconds then quit --did I mess something else up??

  • sanooyen Jul 30, 2010

    and went back to what it was doing --trying to start but not heating

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Jul 30, 2010

    You mentioned something that sparked a thought when you said "I did what you said just pull one wire and check it --when I tested the cavity TOC it worked for a couple of seconds then quit --did I mess something else up??". Explain exactly what you did there, did you remove a wire and it worked when you reattached it ? What is the door like ? I mean can you move it up and down slightly by the handle ? If so try this while it's running and listen for the mag to kick in ( it's usually a distinct sound, even better if you have a clamp-on ameter ). If so this could be the problem...the door latch isn't contacting the secondary switch enough to allow the control an ok signal/voltages. While you where checking the tco you mentioned it worked briefly...that sounds like a switch and not a tco.

    Let me know what you find.


    macmarkus :)

  • sanooyen Jul 30, 2010

    well I pulled one wire from the Cavity TCO put a jumper from that wire to the other wire that was still attached to tha TCO plug in unit --after pushing cook the tray started to turn and sounded like every thing came on --but after a few seconds it when back to what it was doing -- tray not turning or heating

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Jul 30, 2010

    Hi,



    Did you try the door movement suggestion ? I wondered if the door hinge had some wear to it, hence intermittently or more often than not, not contacting the door switches properly. (specifically the secondary switch).



    Because it does appear to work time to time as you alluded to while testing the tco, it sure sounds like a door alignment/switch issue.



    Let me know.



    macmarkus :)

  • sanooyen Jul 31, 2010

    Well not really time to time just one time --I tried playing with the door working it up and down opening and closing it but it still not working --any more suggestions

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Jul 31, 2010

    Hello again,



    Sorry I haven`t been able to reply sooner, other commitments...you know how it is.



    I think at this point I would be changing the three switches for the door latch assembly, monitor wb24x830, primary...or lever switch as it can be referred to by some # wb06x10128 and secondary #wb24x829.



    Simply testing these switches for continuity can be misleading as well, at least if you remove them.

    Testing should be done while intact with the door closed and wires removed, thus giving you an actual reading of the position when the door is closed.



    In the worst case scenario it could be the control board relay, however if that where the case it usually manifest in a manner whereby only the display accept`s a command and counts down without the light or turntable or mag coming on...it doesn`t sound like that is the case.



    Only because when one is faulty they should all be changes as they do work in unison. I`m certain the info you have will confirm this to be true.



    I hope you can appreciate this can be a process of elimination and trying to do so from afar makes it that much more challenging and time consuming, but I`m going on info through you I could typically determine through my own testing.



    The good news is all three of those switches are less than $35US and should be available at "searspartsdirect.com" or "repairclinic.com" among others.



    Let me know how you make out. I`ll continue to guide you until it is resolved or as much as I can.



    Good luck once again.



    macmarkus :)

  • sanooyen Aug 01, 2010

    Well I check the continuity of the switches with the door closed and guess what you were right the primary interlock switch on the bottom of the door was bad---I ran down to a local appliance store purchased a $6.00 switch and it WORKED!!!! Now I just have to replace the dish that I broke when I pulled the darn microwave out. Thanks for the help I wish I would have done this first before buying a the Megatron and Diode --again thanks for the help

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