Question about Voigtlander Bessa R3A 35mm Rangfinder Camera

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I bought my r3a yesterday and just after taking a shot on my first roll of film the light meter went dead and the shutter refused to press in. I have replaced the batteries but that doesn't do it either.

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2 Answers

Two rolls of film developed at CVS - apparently not exposed???


it is not unknown for film developing sites to with hold good photos so take another practice roll and have it developed somewhere else
That will prove either the camera or the developer

Apr 23, 2017 | Pentax K1000 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

I didnt use all of my film but i pressed the rewind button and when i turned it on the film rewond on its own. what do i do?


Nothing. You pressed the rewind button and the film rewound: it didn't do so "on its own", it just did what you told it to.

Get it developed and put another film in and don't make the same mistake twice.

You can buy a film leader retriever which fishes out the end of the film from the canister enabling you to reload it, but you need to remember exactly which frame you were at. To get it back to the correct position you then set the camera to fully manual and using the fastest shutter speed and smallest aperture, leave the lens cap on and cover the viewfinder and away from bright light you fire the shutter until the counter reads one lower than you were last at (if your frame counter counts down to zero shots remaining). If the subsequent shots don't register exactly with the old shots, the automatic film processing machinery will likely cut into some frames when cutting the negs into strips. You'll also find that a leader retriever costs more than another roll of film and can take some skill to use.

In summary, your Minolta 7000 is behaving exactly as designed and the cheapest fix is to just drop in a new roll of film.

Sep 20, 2010 | Minolta Maxxum 7000 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

How do i know when my battery is dead. Every time my pictures are developed, they come out black. how do i use the exposure meter?


The K1000 is all mechanical, the battery only powers the light meter. So even if the battery is dead, then you should still be getting images even if very over or under-exposed.

If the images are totally black on the negatives, then your shutter is stuck open and massively over-exposing your images. If the images are black on the prints, then the negatives have been unexposed and will be totally clear. The latter problem means that the film has not been exposed at all and is either due to incorrect film loading, faulty film winding, or a shutter which fails to open.

To eliminate the possibility of a shutter fault, hold the camera up to the light with the camera back open and fire the shutter at each setting. You should see light as the shutter opens and from 1s to 1/30s should be able to see and hear the difference at each speed.

To check film loading and advancing correctly, load a film and wind film on (remember this camera needs the film leader to be manually engaged onto the take-up spool). Use the rewind crank (do not press the rewind button) to take up the loose film and take a few shots. You should see the rewind crank turn each time you advance the film if it is correctly loaded and advancing. If not, open the camera back and visually inspect the film. It should be securely engaged into the take up spool. With the back still open, advance the film and take a few shots: the take-up spool should be advancing and the sprocket wheel (just before the spool, it's the wheel which engages the holes at the edge of the film) should also be turning. If it isn't, then the film rewind mechanism is faulty and the camera is behaving as if the rewind button has been pressed. It's usually easy to remove the bottom of the camera to check that the button isn't sticking.

If all checks so far are OK then check the film pressure plate on the inside of the film door. It should be able to give a little when pressure is applied and holds the film firmly in contact with the advance sprocket, if not then one of the seating pins on the flat metal spring may have become dislodged and it's usually easy to reseat it. Clean the plate after touching it as it must be grease-free and spotless.

If you try all this and still have a problem then please add a follow up comment and I'll try to respond asap, but bear in mind that as I'm in the UK I may be in a different time zone to you.

If I've fixed your problem, then please take a moment to rate my answer.

Aug 19, 2010 | Pentax K1000 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

I just bought new Lomo Fisheye2 camera. I read the instruction first before i will do anything to my camera. Once i read everything, i just follow the instruction step by step. Putting AA battery and...


If your film was TOTALLY blank then it's been bleached due to a processing error. By totally blank, I mean that there are no frame numbers or other film markings on your blank film. Otherwise, you simply have an unexposed film.

First, operate the camera with the camera back open, hold the camera up to a bright light and operate the camera as you look into the back of the lens. If you see a brief bit of light coming through as you operate the shutter then the shutter is admitting light into the camera and so you should have got some kind of an image unless you failed to correctly load the film (very common).

Unfortunately, there's no way to tell unless you try another roll of film. Once the film is loaded, turn the rewind crank gently to take up slack film and take a few pictures; each time you advance the film the rewind crank should turn a little. If it doesn't then the film has not been correctly loaded as the film leader has not engaged onto the take-up spool. If so, open the camera and re-engage the film. If it clearly has engaged, then the take-up spool is failing to rotate when the film is advanced: try taking a few shots and winding on the film with the back open. If the film is not advancing then you have a faulty Lomo. This is extremely common as it is a plastic toy camera with atrocious build quality and materials and is the FishEye is only designed for paltry ten rolls of film lifespan.

A final check for film which has not advanced through the camera is if the rewind is extremely short when the film has finished.


Aug 11, 2010 | Lomo Fisheye 35mm Film Camera

1 Answer

Film advance stuck and metering problem on Minolta X700


Hi, i have the same problem, do you fix it?, can you give me the solution please?

Thanks, my mail is dg_alex_vargas@hotmail.com

Jan 27, 2010 | Minolta X-700 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Nikon EM (1979?) Won't wind film, photos don't come out


Not necessarily. The EM has an M90 setting which will fire the shutter at 1/90th of a second. The meter is inactive on this setting. It was put on the EM so that if the batteries fail, you can shoot at 1/90th and take a guess at the exposure. There is also a small button (blue or chrome, depending on the production run) which lights up a red LED if the batteries are good. The light meter doesn't work until the frame counter is at 1 or higher. Before the #1, the shutter will always fire at 1/2000th of a second to speed up the film loading process. You can tell that the meter is working by observing the meter's scale/needle on the inside of the viewfinder. If it is pointing out of the red zone, it's OK to shoot (proper exposure). If the needle is in the red zone (indicating under or over exposure) the camera will "beep" as an audible warning. Check the battery condition first.

Mar 16, 2009 | Nikon EM 35mm SLR Camera

2 Answers

Film not exposing.


Ok, well are you using a lens that is compatible with the auto setting? Are the batteries new and fresh in the camera? If you are not sure about the lens, then what you can do is too look at the inside of the box of the film you are using (Kodak) has a setting and exposure guide printed on the box. Try using the required exposure for the light that you are in... say for bright sun try f 16 at 1/125th of a second. That setting is for Kodak Royal Gold 100. That is right off the Kodak exposure guide, which you can find on the web here

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/products/techInfo/e41/index.shtml#exposure

I'd stick to Kodak film if possible. Try that out, and if no dice, then take the camera to a repair shop and have it looked over. good luck!

Dec 19, 2008 | Pentax ME Super 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Hello, I just recently put eight rolls of film at Wal-mart to be developed. All of the pictures did not take. All the negatives were clear. What could have caused this to happen. I did not know that there...


tcwat67,

the battery you mention is used for memory back up. when you change the main batteries this battery keeps the memory from needing reset. if the film is completely clear the film was not exposed to light. now if the film was transported and the meter and LED was working then the shutter was not opening, an easy check----- just take the lens off and fire the shutter a few times. the shutter may not fire if the film door is opened.
if the shutter is not opening it must be replaced, if you can find a camera repair shop that fixes vintage camera's any parts replaced will be good used.

Dec 12, 2008 | Minolta Maxxum 7000 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Shutter


kirstyanne00,

open the film door and check the shutter blades. did you accidentally push the blades in when loading the film? if so take the camera to a camera repair shop, the technician may be able to reset the blades while you wait.
or send it to pentax repair center for an estimate cost to repair.

Oct 25, 2008 | Pentax MZ-50 35mm SLR Camera

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