Question about Sram X7 Mountain Bike Rear Derailleur

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I have spend the last hour adjusting the cable tension on my new SRAM X-7 derailleur installed on my KONA Coilair with a 9-speed cassette, however the derailleur is only functioning on six of the nine cogs (the six high end when the cable is loosened, and the six low end when the cable is tightened) i made sure in the store that the derailleur was a nine speed however i am stumped please help?

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I think you spent more time MAL-adjusting it. Try these links:

Get the physical limits of the derailleur dialed in with NO CABLE attached before monkeying with the the cable adjustment.

Posted on Jul 29, 2010

  • ptramel Mar 15, 2011

    I have come to the conclusion that the X7 RD is a defective part -- at least there are defective batches of them. My 8-spd X7 RD had the problem you describe. Thought it was a problem with my chain line (I was using it on an old road bike). But I switched it to a new build, with a perfect chain line, and same problem. I discovered that it can move as it is supposed to move by hand (hand on the derailleur), but there is no way to adjust a cable to move it as it is supposed to move. When I looked online I discovered that many other people have the same problem with the X7. Thanks to those who posted the obvious solutions; but the problem here is usually the part, not the cable or pre-cable adjustment.



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I have a SRAM 3.0 rear derailer. It is difficult going into the two largest gears, I have a 7 speed cassette. I notice there is no barrel adjustment on it. Any suggestions

The barrel is for fine tuning the indexing among the gears. Limit screws set the inner and outer physical swing of the derailleur.

A simple web search for "Sram 3.0 Mountain Bike Rear Derailleur adjustment" finds the manual.

There IS a barrel adjuster.

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SRAM Rival Rear Derailleur stays on the large rear gear when shifting from low to high gears. Sometimes the gears doesn't seem to change at all. I've already taken the bike to Performance bike shop...

adjust barrel on rear mech clockwise till gear shifts click brake lrver for next gear repeat same as before with barrel. If this fails stat from bottom og cassette but adjust barrel anti-clockwise to obtain gears.

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I have a Campy 10 Speed Shifter, running with SRAM S60 wheels, it causes some problems when upshifting

If you are running a SRAM or Shimano Cassette, then the spacing will be ever so slightly off. If you want to have precise clean shifting then you need to either replace the cassette body with a Campy one and replace the cassette with campy or get a 10-speed conversion cassette such as those from American Classic. Campy spacing on a shimano/ Sram spline.

The wheels in and of themselves should not make any difference.

Another trick for perfect shifting, make sure that your rear derailleur and shifter match - Campy to campy, Sram to Sram as examples.

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Hi Everyone! I have a Shimano 5603 Hollowtech 2 triple chainring.......(10 Speed) I want to add a Utlegra 6600 front derailleur and Ultegra 6600 rear derailleur. Also 10 speed cassette, Ultegra...

No -

If you are going to use the front triple crankset, then you need to use the 6603 components. These are for Triple set-ups.

If you intend to keep your bike a triple, then everything in the drivetrain must be the triple designation, hence the XX03.

If you want to change the crankset to a compact, then you can use the 6600 (double) equipment, but you will need to change the left (front shifter) to a double as well. The compact crankset, will give you virtually the same range as the triple and be much lighter and shift better.

The cassette: You can use any 10 spd cassette from Shimano or SRAM as long as the rear cog is no larger than 27. if you want to use a larger cog like a 28, then you will have to use the 6700 group, assuming yoiu want to stay with shimano ultegra.

Final Note: Since you are chainging everything, you may want to consider the SRAM Apex group, this gives you more gear ratio than the Ultegra, is slightly less expensive and around the same weight. Great alternative to Triple bikes.

Parts you will need to convert:
Rear Derailleur
Front Derailleur (if changing to compact double or Apex)
Shifter set (if Apex)
Crankset (if Apex or compact shimano)
Bottom Bracket (if Apex)

The biggest thing is that Shifters and rear derailleur must be from the same company (shimano, SRAM, etc.) after that just make sure that yoiu use 10spd with 10spd, 9 with 9, and so on. Everything else can mix and match.

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make sure nothing is bent and all sprockets are tight, try replacing cable and readjusting .

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Gears not changing quickly enough. and then changing 10 to 15 seconds later after clicking shifter . when they eventually change they seem to thud down the cassette . no promblems putting them back up the...

Two things to this problem.
1. Clean your drivetrain REALLY, REALLY thoroughly with a good degreaser and a bristled brush. All of it. Clean the derailleurs, the chain, the cables. Once it is all cleaned up and dried off, lubricate the chain and the cables ONLY.
2. Shift your bike into the highest gear and release the cable. Pull it taut and re-tighten it. Flip it over and shift into your middle cassette cog while cranking the pedals. Use the barrel adjuster on your rear shifter to get the jockey wheel on the cassette aligned over the correct cog.
This was an abridged guide to rear derailleur adjustment because it sounds like it was more grunge in the cable or derailleur than anything else, but i'll check back and if this solution doesn't work out, i'll give you tips on a far more thorough overhaul. Just remember a clean drivetrain is a functional drivetrain, and the cables and chain are the only thing you are supposed to lube.

Hope this helps,

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Replacing Attack's rear derailleur cable

Stop everything! Do not take the shifter apart! Go to the rear derailleur and look where the cable is attached. There is a bolt with an allen key head, it is an 8mm. Losen off the bolt. REFER TO PARKTOOL.COM

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