Question about Polaris 380 In Ground Pool Cleaner

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Unit seems to be nose down position front wheel makes contact back and side wheels don't

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With these pool cleaners, this is a common and easily corrected problem. Check the following things. First, make sure that the filter bag is not full. If it is, it could be weighing down the cleaner on one side. Next, remove the head float and shake it. If there is water in the float, you will need to replace it. This is most likely the cause of your problem. Finally, check the hose floats to make sure that they are evenly spaced and are not causing the cleaner to float improperly.

Posted on Oct 11, 2010


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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Rear pinion flange is being stopped from going in by the bearing

Could be the pinion/bearing assembly has moved forward in the nose part of the housing and is prevented from being pushed back into position because the teeth are no longer meshing but butting against the crown wheel.
Jacking a wheel off the ground and turning the mechanism should line everything up and allow the pinion and bearing to go back into position. Refitting the retainer/oil seal housing with any shims should leave the original amount of pinion shaft protruding.

If that isn't the case it would indicate a more in-depth examination is needed, either by removing the pan or drawing out the half-shafts and removing the final drive unit.

Oct 04, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

We replaced the rear wheels on the Gator and now it doesn't seem to have any traction or go as fast as before.

Take a tape measure and check if the back wheels are same diameter. They may have given you two different size wheels so one is too small. Some machines have bigger back wheels than front - so if they sent a front wheel and a back wheel (instead of two back wheels) one may be too small. If machine has any kind of suspension measure how long each side is to see if one side is stuck in the up position.

Jan 11, 2015 | Peg Perego John Deere Gator HPX Ride on...

1 Answer

Wheels do not swivel simmetrically, i.e. left wheel swivels freely, right wheel has a "mind of its own." Both slides are in the same position. I tried changing them from down to up position. ...

The "up and down positions" set the spring tension to give a softer or harder ride. They must be on the same setting for the wheels to be "simmetrical" The best way to maintain the front wheel units is to take them off the stroller drop into a bucket of hot soapy water, scrub, hose off and leave to dry. Once dry spray with silicon spray and wipe off excess with a paper towel. Don't use WD40 or other oil based sprays. They stain fabrics and stay wet causing dust to stick. Check that the sockets the wheels clip into are clean and give then a spray with silicon too. If you still have a problem your frame may be bent.

Jul 21, 2011 | Bugaboo Cameleon Stroller

1 Answer

My 2003 Grand Cherokee will not disengage the driver's side front hub, essentially leaving the truck with half of the front end engaged. How do I fix it? Is it vacuum driven or a solenoid?

Your front differential is what's called an "open" style. It's exactly the same as any differential found in any vehicle with non positraction rear wheel drive. In that type of diff, one wheel is always connected to the driveline through the small spider gears inside the carrier. When you are driving and there is power being applied through the driveshaft, power goes to the wheel with the least amount of traction, which is actually a bad way to do that but it seems to work fairly well except on ice or in mud.
Positraction differentials put fairly equal power to both wheels but you can't use them in the front end because they would make steering difficult. When you are cornering, the wheel on the outside of the turn needs to turn faster to keep up. A posi makes that difficult, a "locked rear" makes it near impossible. That's why you don't see them except in specialized off road vehicles (not in the front anyway).
The component that makes your front diff move the vehicle is the transfer case. On many GC's they use a quadratrack unit. That kind used a heat sensitive fluid coupler inside that locks up when the rear wheels start to slip. Those units can be identified by their shifter which only has three positions. Technically it's always in 4 wheel drive but it only comes on during slippage. The other manual kind has four positions and is engaged manually. Some early Cherokees (not GC's) and many wranglers use a vacuum diff lock up. So unless someone put one in there (lots of mods would be necessary) you have a normal open diff there and that's just how they act when off the ground.
If you cannot turn the wheel assembly at all, then there's a high probability that the hub bearing has frozen or the brake caliper piston is stuck in the applied position.
One interesting fact is that no vehicle is really four wheel drive...most only have one wheel in front and one in back actually moving the vehicle. If you are equipped with a rear posi diff, then essentially you have 3 wheel drive (with the exception of modified vehicles as I mentioned).

Jul 13, 2011 | Jeep Grand Cherokee Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hello, I recently bought a quinny buzz 3 (second hand) and its very difficult to collapse the frame, but it's easy to open it back up. What would I need to do to fix the problem?

Good Evening

It sounds as though you're not quite depressing the fold buttons fully when trying to collapse it, so you're pushing against the natural spring of the chassis which is making it difficult.

The Buzz is easiest to fold when you're standing in front of it. Either remove the seat unit, or make sure it is forward facing and in the upright position before you start. Swivel the front wheel straight and lock it into position. Standing in front of the Buzz, push the left side button in until you can't make it go any further, then roll the right button toward you as far as possible. It should only require a small amount of pressure to fold the unit, but remember, due to the style of the automatic unfold you are working against it to fold it up. If you hear any clicks, pops or creaks, don't force it as you'll break the fold knuckles.

If this still doesn't work, give the chassis a good, thorough clean to make sure no dirt or debris is causing the problem. Use a dry Teflon spray (found in the laundry aisle of most supermarkets) or normal furnature polish with a soft dry cloth and give the whole chassis a thorough cleaning. Then as you're folding it down, follow the black plastic down the central tube as it goes toward the front wheel unit to make sure its totally clean. This should make it smoother to fold.

Failing that, the product will need to be returned to the engineers for inspection - which country are you in?

May 18, 2011 | Quinny Buzz Three Wheel Stroller

1 Answer

Suspension and drive ability problems, as you accelerating the steering wheel wobbles form left to tight and you can feel the front pass side of ven move up and down, im not sure where to start looking

hi first thing to check are the front wheel nuts tight next jack up the front passenger side of car place hands at 3 0clock position and rock wheel if it feels like that there is excess movment it probably track rod end next check for ball joint by positioning hands at 12.30 position and rock wheel if movementits ball joint while you have car on jack have a look under front passenger side to see if there is any visible signs of what it could be make sure car is secure before doing any of the above aid of some one to either rock wheel or look under car at the bits described would make life easier if nothing obvious check other side hope this of some help

Feb 17, 2011 | Ford Aerostar Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Installation of horn contact and steering wheel on trans am. Car is a 1981

Pull the horn cap off, it should have plastic tabs that lock into a metal cylinder underneath, but will pop off pretty easily. That metal cylinder should be held on by 3 screws. Under those screws is a plastic washer and your contact ring. If you're replacing a steering wheel and need to pull the old one buy, rent or borrow a steering wheel puller. There's nothing worse than having to explain to your buddies how you broke your nose removing a steering wheel. They puller looks like a crows foot. It has three slots on one side and one on the back side. You can use three bolts to attach it to the steering wheel. I wrench will work to screw down the large bolt in the center and the steering wheel will come right off. Put a new steering wheel on, new contacts, and you should be set to go.

Nov 10, 2009 | 1979 Pontiac Firebird

2 Answers

Bissell proheat turbo 2x upright cleaner -how do I reassmeble?

Yeah, it’s annoying that the manual doesn’t give more detailed instructions and drawings to help with this, because you do have to take the roller assembly apart sometimes to clean built-up carpet lint off the unit properly. If you don’t do this, I’d expect you’d have more problems.

I have a different model number Bissell Proheat than yours. Yours may have different parts or go together differently than mine, but I'll tell you how I do it on mine and you can try my way out and see if it helps you.

(In all cases where I use left vs. right or front vs. back, as when these terms are used with a car, I am facing the front of the Bissell. I am NOT behind the Bissell, where I would stand when cleaning carpet with it.)

Here's how I put it together. This takes much longer to describe than to do, once you figure out where everything goes and you get the hang of doing it!

Attach the left arm with the two silver rods (ONLY attach the left arm here-- leave the corresponding right arm, which looks like the left arm except it has no silver rods, off the bottom unit of the Bissell, for now) to the left side of the Bissell, with a silver screw with a built-in washer. The screw hole is on the back end of the arm and the arm dips down towards the front of the Bissell and holds the two brushes in position so that they can turn without striking the top of the underside of the Bissell or dragging on the floor.

Put a small silver washer on each long, silver metal post, where the roller brushes will go, and slide it all the way to the left.

Put the larger rubber belt around both metal posts, about halfway to two-thirds of the way down the metal posts.

Slide the brushes halfway down the metal posts and attach the larger rubber belt to the cog wheel on the left side of each roller brush. Then slide both roller brushes with the large rubber belt attached all the way to the left so that the cog wheels are against the inside of the left arm. As you move the roller brushes almost all the way to the left, you may be blocked from reaching the end until you carefully work the rubber belt around a plastic flange on the inside of the left arm, but do this and be sure the roller brushes are up against the inside of the left arm. Make sure the rubber belt is still on each of the cog wheels when the roller brushes are pushed all the way left. If you turn one roller brush, the other should turn, too, because of the belt attached to both cog wheels.

Put the small belt around the small cog wheel on the bottom unit of the Bissell behind the right end of the back roller brush, and also around the cog wheel on the right end of the back roller brush. (The right cog wheel on the front roller brush is the only one of five cog wheels without a belt, when everything is assembled correctly.)

Put a small silver washer on the right end of the silver rod passing through the back roller brush.

NOW attach the right arm, using a silver screw with a washer, to the middle screw hole on the right side of the bottom unit of the Bissell. The right arm should mirror the left arm, so that the two arms hold both roller brushes in position on the right side and straight across the bottom unit of the Bissell. It is normal for the roller brushes and arms to be able to flex up and down a bit, when everything is put together correctly. The built-in washers on the silver screws which attach the arms keep the arms and roller brushes in the generally correct position but allow them to flex.

Now using your fingers you should be able to slowly spin the roller brushes without the brushes contacting the top of the bottom unit of the Bissell and without dragging too low against the floor. Check one more time and be sure the belts are positioned correctly around four of the five cog wheels.

If everything seems right, attach the two side covers. These are not interchangeable; the left cover only fits on the left. The short black screw goes in the back screw hole, and the long black screw goes in front.

Then attach the front cover. It's important to be careful that the hooks on the front cover are inside the side cover holes designed to hold the hooks before trying to tighten the last screw through the tab on top of the front cover. If you aren't careful about this, it's easy for the front cover to be out of position or to break its tab.

Try powering up the Bissell and see if the rollers spin correctly. Remember that the handle must not be locked upright and the trigger must be depressed with the Bissell turned on before the roller brushes will spin. (Sometimes people complain that nothing happens with the unit turned on and the trigger depressed when the only problem is that the handle is in the locked upright position.)

Good luck!

May 31, 2009 | Bissell 1699 ProHeat Clear View Upright...

1 Answer

I have a Sebo x1. It will not pick up from the head.

If the wheel isn't moving when the upright handle is swung down normally then the hydrallic action will be broken. The wheel only adjusts to the carpet when the handle is swung down and the wheel goes to the highest position. HOWEVER if you have large pile / thick carpeting then the X1 will struggle to pick this up as it doesn't cope well with thick carpeting. Sebo's G1 series with a manual adjuster dial is better in that respect. Put back the wheel as normal and check that it is lowering once the handle is unlocked. If it doesn't show up with the lights on the front of the hood showing that the wheel is going down, then its either the carpet thickness or the hydrallic wheel mechanism is broken. Contact Sebo in your country and they can usually send out a line diagram or suggest a repair.

Jan 30, 2009 | Sebo Automatic X1 Bagged Upright Vacuum

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