Question about Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

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My washer is leaking brown fluid and the moter runs but the drum doesnt work

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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.########) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Also see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load, direct drive washers

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Also see the following for how to release the console, pull the cabinet (to check where the leak is coming from) and how to pull the pump, motor and gearcase.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=7b97579f27923039de87c5ad6ef1ed8f

It sounds from your one sentence description as if you have more than one problem.

NOTE: MOST REPAIRS ON BASIC TOP LOAD, DIRECT DRIVE WASHERS ARE RELATIVELY EASY AND INEXPENSIVE TO FIX.

First, pull the cabinet.

I'd pull the pump and motor and check the motor coupler, a common cause for the drum not spinning. I ASSUME THAT IT WILL NOT AGITATE EITHER:

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

While you have the motor and coupler out, I'd also pull the gearcase (See the above) and check to see if the lid on the gearcase is leaking.

If it is, I'd remove the 8 bolts holding the top on and run a bead of gasket material (sears and others have tubes of sealant) around the case and carefully replace the lid.

You'll have to pull the clutch to take the cover off:

See the above for how to take off the clip holding the clutch on:

NOTE: YOU DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR DRIVE COUPLER TO GET THE GEARCASE OUT.

While you have the gearcasse out, I'd also check the gaskets at the bottom of the tub to make sure that they aren't leaking.




Posted on Jul 28, 2010

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